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Boost surging at and near WOT


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Yeah I was thinking about the AEM too. The guy I talked to at surgeline and the guy at SSI (who's going to do the tune) both recommended the DW one for the mods I have. They say the AEM is good but overkill unless you have upgraded fueling/intake/turbo

Edited by willisdaye
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Genuinely curious about the price difference at the moment. I don't remember paying a whole lot more for the the AEM. So... if it is regarded, even by the guys you're talking to as being the better option, then why not? As always, spending someone else's money is easy.

Perhaps it is something more technical like higher fuel line pressure? But I would assume that a tune takes that into consideration, although I also figure the FPR would equalize that in any case. (Something along the lines of more pump than you need.... and I do have a slightly more than stock turbo etc....)

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Glad you got out worked out.  There I was trying to give the tuner the benefit of the doubt.  Unfortunately, anyone with a laptop and cheap cable can corrupt the ecm.  Cant't really call them tuners, but when you are not the original owner you never know. 

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A quick search and it looks DW and AEM are pretty similar in price, DW a tad more. My guy said the AEM one is stronger and might be too much for the stock regulator in some cases. Given I don't plan on upgrading anything else I think I'll stick with the DW. I also already ordered it, which is more justification to just roll with it 😁

 

I guess if it craps out on me I'll have an excuse to get the AEM and go all out with a bigger turbo

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14 hours ago, willisdaye said:

A quick search and it looks DW and AEM are pretty similar in price, DW a tad more. My guy said the AEM one is stronger and might be too much for the stock regulator in some cases. Given I don't plan on upgrading anything else I think I'll stick with the DW. I also already ordered it, which is more justification to just roll with it 😁

 

I guess if it craps out on me I'll have an excuse to get the AEM and go all out with a bigger turbo

Ah, I did the STI FPR at the same-ish time as the fuel pump, so that might be part of it. Good luck.

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Halfway through the pump install, and am now debating whether or not to replace the fuel filter while I have everything taken apart. Did any of you guys take care of that when you did the pump? It's at 170k and I'm not sure if it's ever been done. For what it's worth, the current one looks pretty clean.

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Just now, willisdaye said:

Halfway through the pump install, and am now debating whether or not to replace the fuel filter while I have everything taken apart. Did any of you guys take care of that when you did the pump? It's at 170k and I'm not sure if it's ever been done. For what it's worth, the current one looks pretty clean.

I always replace the filter; I don’t want to go back for that when it’s already out. 

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Could be a technicality, or could be that its past my bedtime and I already consumed a night cap.   But, is not the fuel filter a part of the housing on a 4th gen LGT and the piece attached ro the bottom of the pump a "sock"?  IIrc some aftermarket pumps came with new "socks".  Its been a while and I dont want to spread inaccurate info.

 

Either way, not a bad idea to replace anything you can at the age and mileage of most 4th gens.  

 

I feel like a 4th gen today.  I need some new parts and maintenance. 

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Yeah the DW came with a new fuel sock. The filter is the large white plastic part that the pump attaches to. Parts store had just closed when I did the replacement so I got impatient and kept the old one since I needed to drive today. All in all I didn't think it was that much of a hassle to do so I'll do it later if needed. I'll also check / have the tuner check the fuel pressure to make sure it's within expected.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Alright so the boost oscillation issue was finally solved after tuning. My tuner open source tuned it, it made 250whp up on the dyno, and it feels really smooth now, at all throttle levels. However, he said that it's overboosting a bit, and it sounds like it's mechanical since he wasn't able to fix it in the tune. I think I'm going to start a new thread for this since the original issue has been solved. I'll link it once it's up.

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Should be.  Loosen lock nut at actuator connector. Double jam nut.  A few turns make a big difference.  Most likely needs to be done with tuner. It gets HOT.  I have left skin grafts more than a few times making adjustments during tune. 

Edited by m sprank
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