jagoulet Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 hi! The blower motor has stopped entirely. I checked the fuses (2 15A) and both pass a continuity test. So there is an open circuit? Some research shows a "resistor" so could that have failed? I get the impression that the motor can be removed if the glove box is removed. Any experiences or advice appreciated! John 2009 2.5 L Impreza - - normally aspirated hatchback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 On your car, IDK. But Legacy's are easy. Three bolts under the heater box, above the passenger foot well and the blower drops out. The resistor will be mounted to the motor, if I recall correctly. I just went out to the shed and checked my spare. I see they are two separate pieces. Have you asked google. Here's for a Forrester 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 thanks! So would you just replace both components and be done with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 I'd do one at a time. I thought your impreza would take the same resistor as my old legacy, but it doesn't. The resistor yours takes is a little more expensive. Local auto parts stores might have them too of course, but here's a few options below for the resistor. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2009_Impreza-25L-SS-4WD-Wagon/HVAC-Blower-Motor-Resistor/49281084/72226FG001.html https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=72226FG001 There's no testing specs for the auto ac model listed, but here's some specs for the manual ac resistor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 this is great! the blower must be running for the AC to work. That doesn't happen. With the AC off, still nothing happening (could be defrosting the windshield hypothetically) Being able to bench test the motor is a big help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 I got into it a bit. The blower is easy to get to, behind the glove box. I unplugged it, took a spare battery and jumpers, and it blows just fine. Meanwhile, with the key On and the switch for the fan in various positions, there is no voltage at the connector to the fan. Consistent. So that seems to leave me with the switch and the resistors (3). I am dubious as how 3 resistors could all fail at the same time , so the switch seems a real possibilitly. Getting the lower cover off looks formidable. Comments? thanks! john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 (edited) It looks like the temperature and fan speed are controlled by a metal cable that attached to the back of the dials. I don't think it's that, but I could be wrong. My money would be on the blower motor resistor, but I'd also double check the fuse numbers in the attached image, I'm not sure if these are the ones you checked already. (Apologies for the full size images by the way.. I don't see an option to just attach thumbnails here like I can on some other forums) Edited July 25, 2022 by apexi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 (edited) the fuse listing on the cover (by the driver's left knee) has "blower" as the 2 lower left fuses. I took both out and checked and they pass current. How does one get the lower cover off of the dash/instruments to get at any of this? Is the "Blower Fan Relay" in the box under the hood? (left side behind battery) (Later) I found a Youtube video where the guy locates and swaps out the motor-resistor. It is behind and to the left of the glove box. Not far from the blower. So I can remove this and bench test it with a multimeter. Now the guy in the video says position "4" is full voltage - no resistance . I don't believe position 4 works either (will double check). If not then I have to wonder if there is any power at that point. But that's getting ahead of things . . . (even later) got the motor resistor out. Pretty low tech. Gold pin and 3 silver. I tried resistance between each silver and the gold and found no open circuits. No signs of burnt windings. So now back at the switch itself for the fan. It has, to the lower left,rear window defrost, and to the lower right, air recycling. Also an AC button. NONE of those, when pressed, cause the little indicator lights to come on inside them. So I have to wonder if there is a single power source for that group of controls, and right now it's dead. Perhaps the fan not working is a symptom of a more general problem. I will try swapping those 2 relays. Thank you for all your assistance! Edited July 26, 2022 by jagoulet additional info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 (edited) for removing panels and such http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/2009/2009 Service Manual.pdf looks like the blower fan relay is on the bottom of the blower (image from the link below) https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2009_Impreza-25L-SS-4WD-Wagon/_52016_6023756/ELECTRICAL-PARTS-BODY-RELAY/G12-835-02.html If I'm reading the subaru parts diagram right, relay #1 and relay #4 are the same part number? So you could swap the blower relay with one labeled #1? Not sure why they have different #'s then.. Edited July 25, 2022 by apexi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted July 26, 2022 Author Share Posted July 26, 2022 If I'm reading the subaru parts diagram right, relay #1 and relay #4 are the same part number? So you could swap the blower relay with one labeled #1? Not sure why they have different #'s then.. I took them both out to swap but they (in my case) are physically different - pins and so on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted July 26, 2022 Author Share Posted July 26, 2022 (edited) There is, from the wiring diagram, a "blower motor diode" said to be on the right side of the dash. Does anyone know exactly where this is? If it failed and was Open, no power would be available to the switch. Should be easy to test - passes current one way, no current the other. But where is it? (Does the switch provide power to the blower or does it ground out the circuit? ) Edited July 26, 2022 by jagoulet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted July 30, 2022 Author Share Posted July 30, 2022 So . . . after lots of checking . . . it seems like the bearing in the AC clutch is shot. Intermittent but pretty clear. This caused alot of current draw which killed the fuse. That said, does anyone have a source for a clutch rebuild kit for this car? (2009 2.5i) Seems to consist of a bearing and a couple snap rings. Maybe more. thanks! john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted July 31, 2022 Share Posted July 31, 2022 I don't think there's any connection between your blower motor and the ac clutch, but the link below has more info on rebuilding the ac clutch https://www.legacygt.com/topic/73566-ac-compressor-clutch-replacement-diy-walkthrough/ Someone on page 3 mentioned the kit below, but I don't know how it worked out for him https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DG9Z03S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted July 31, 2022 Author Share Posted July 31, 2022 thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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