Upon delivery and during the initial 24/24 provided maintenance...

[MarkInAustin]

1. Have you asked for 5W30 or 0W30 in place of 0W20? If so, what result?

 

2. Have you brought your own OF, say a Purolator Boss, and asked the dealer to use it instead of the Subie blue? If so, what result?

 

3. Have you offered to provide a magnetic oil pan drain plug to the dealer to install? If so, what result?

 

4. Have you asked SOA for confirmation in writing that a closed system oil/air separator or catch-can in the PVC circuit will not void the warranty?

 

5. Have you asked a dealer to update all software during make-ready? If so, what result?

 

I am expecting delivery of our new Legacy April 20 or so after an 11 week wait. These are questions I may ask, but wondered whether there was collective experience here to guide me.

[MoleMan]

Hello,

 

Here are some answers as best as I can.

 

1. Does not really matter. In your climate I would doubt the dealer would put 0W30 in your car but I would ask anyway as some will do this.

 

2.Dealerships generally will not pit an aftermarket filter on your car. Its more because of liability and the what if factor. Now Independent shops should have no issue with this. I would caution you however on the Purolator Boss filter. I have used this filter on several cars I have all different brands. The filter has a great rating however its just not right for any car I have placed it on. The best bet is to stick to the OEM filters or a M1.

 

3. Once again the dealerships will shy away from this as its not OEM. if you need to do this you can do it yourself with ease or take it to a shop and have then do it when changing the oil. Just remember to change out the crush washer everytime.

 

4. This one is tricky. Why do you need a Catch Can in a 7th gen Legacy? I don't see a reason at all. If you plan on modding this car I can say right now go and spend your money on something else that you can do that with like a WRX or a G37 or something. With the CVT in this car it will not perform at all and you will literally get smoked by base Civics. So once again if you are looking at the mod the car route spend your money on another car. And honestly back to your question if they find out the problem was caused by the catch can they will not warranty it. And the Catch can is visible so they can and will blame any engine issue on it.

 

5. This is already done when you purchase the car. However you can always tell the sales guy that you want to make sure just in case. All they will do is most likely plug it up to the machine and see if its all updated.

 

Once again not to be an ass but may I ask why you are asking about catch cans in a car that has a CVT? Even if you bought the XT I am not understanding why if you are looking at mods you just did not buy a WRX. You probably will be happier. Did you test drive before you bought so you could see the performance of the car or did you just order the car? For me if no CVT was involved then I could understand. But anyone who buys a CVT trans car and then starts asking about specific mods such as catch cans really should have bought another car.

 

I would say since you still have a month before the car is delivered go find your model and test drive if you have not. You still have time to make the decision and get out before you take delivery. For me I would be looking towards a nice used STI with low miles or a low mile WRX or even new one if you can find which are probably 90 days out when I look the local dealer.

Edited March 25, 2022 by MoleMan

[caddygti16v]

Hello,

 

Here are some answers as best as I can.

 

1. Does not really matter. In your climate I would doubt the dealer would put 0W30 in your car but I would ask anyway as some will do this.

 

2.Dealerships generally will not pit an aftermarket filter on your car. Its more because of liability and the what if factor. Now Independent shops should have no issue with this. I would caution you however on the Purolator Boss filter. I have used this filter on several cars I have all different brands. The filter has a great rating however its just not right for any car I have placed it on. The best bet is to stick to the OEM filters or a M1.

 

3. Once again the dealerships will shy away from this as its not OEM. if you need to do this you can do it yourself with ease or take it to a shop and have then do it when changing the oil. Just remember to change out the crush washer everytime.

 

4. This one is tricky. Why do you need a Catch Can in a 7th gen Legacy? I don't see a reason at all. If you plan on modding this car I can say right now go and spend your money on something else that you can do that with like a WRX or a G37 or something. With the CVT in this car it will not perform at all and you will literally get smoked by base Civics. So once again if you are looking at the mod the car route spend your money on another car. And honestly back to your question if they find out the problem was caused by the catch can they will not warranty it. And the Catch can is visible so they can and will blame any engine issue on it.

 

5. This is already done when you purchase the car. However you can always tell the sales guy that you want to make sure just in case. All they will do is most likely plug it up to the machine and see if its all updated.

 

Once again not to be an ass but may I ask why you are asking about catch cans in a car that has a CVT? Even if you bought the XT I am not understanding why if you are looking at mods you just did not buy a WRX. You probably will be happier. Did you test drive before you bought so you could see the performance of the car or did you just order the car? For me if no CVT was involved then I could understand. But anyone who buys a CVT trans car and then starts asking about specific mods such as catch cans really should have bought another car.

 

I would say since you still have a month before the car is delivered go find your model and test drive if you have not. You still have time to make the decision and get out before you take delivery. For me I would be looking towards a nice used STI with low miles or a low mile WRX or even new one if you can find which are probably 90 days out when I look the local dealer.

He is likely asking about the catch can since it's a direct injection engine which are prone to carbon build up on the intake valves. Nothing to do with performance.

 

So far noone has reported carbon build up though, so fingers crossed.

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[whitexc]

11 weeks really isn't a long wait in the current times. Congrats on the new car.

 

Stick with dealer maintenance, fluids and filters for the first few intervals at least. Give the car a good shake down. Bring the magnetic drain plug with you and ask them to install it. Keep the OEM plug and buy some crush washers while there. I too agree that a catch can is overkill on a brand new car. Run some fuel system cleaner here and there to mitigate the carbon issue should you feel the need. The car should be updated but it wouldn't hurt to ask. All dealerships differ in service and quality, especially these days.

 

Enjoy that car. Post some pics.

 

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[MarkInAustin]

Thanks, all - those of you who suggested that the catch-can was to mitigate direct injection related carbon buildup on the intake valves understood.

Fuel injection type cleaners will not clean valves that aren't being "washed" by gasoline, at all. But I do use PEA type cleaner at reasonable intervals [see, Techron].

 

In an aluminum block motor I am not much concerned about tiny iron or steel particles; it is just that I have used magnetic drain plugs over the years as a cheap safeguard on remanufactured engines. Seemed a cheap insurance policy on a new motor as well, but probably overkill, as suggested.

 

Tests show miniscule difference in MPG with 5W30 oil and in Texas summers, say on the drive from Austin to EP on IH10 at 80 mph, I would be more comfortable with 5W30. Personal choice and not a warranty issue at all according to the manual, provided it is high quality synthetic.

 

I will wait on the catch-can for 60 months, but [aerosol] clean the intake valves at 30 mos and 60 mos.

 

I can tell you from experience that a catch-can works to remove a significant amount of carbon from the intake system on any vehicle.

 

As for the filter: I have deconstructed the Subie blue and I think it is good for 6K mi of "normal" driving - but it is not comparable in construction to an M1, a Bosch, the best WIX, or a Puroil Boss, and probably some others that I haven't sawed apart.

 

I only mentioned the "Boss" because it has the same unusually high spring pressure, 20lbs+, as the Sube blue, and that bypass pressure is "recommended" by Subaru. Because I don't race [any more, I used to SCCA in a Porsche when I was in my late 30s, but now I am 79] and I change oil and filter plenty often enough for it to never sludge and I am not in a cold climate and my car is garaged, I cannot imagine ever seeing anything near a 20# pressure drop across the filter, even on a cold start winter morning [after all, that is what 0W weight is supposed to prevent]. I have read an engineering paper that suggested in my situation I would never see a 10# pressure drop!

 

Thus I am personally happy with the synthetic medium in the M1 filter, as well. But I have no problem with any of the four I have mentioned for 6mo/6000mi oil changes and I wonder what problems you have had with the Pure, MoleMan? I would be glad to follow your advice, as there are other choices available, that I use, anyway.

 

One thing I have noticed over the years is that oil filters keep changing construction, and they change who manufactures them regardless of brand.

 

I am thankful for all your replies, as I am new here and it is not as active a site as Forester, for example. I will post photos in late April, if the delivery is as scheduled.

Edited March 26, 2022 by MarkInAustin

[MoleMan]

Thanks, all - those of you who suggested that the catch-can was to mitigate direct injection related carbon buildup on the intake valves understood.

Fuel injection type cleaners will not clean valves that aren't being "washed" by gasoline, at all. But I do use PEA type cleaner at reasonable intervals [see, Techron].

 

In an aluminum block motor I am not much concerned about tiny iron or steel particles; it is just that I have used magnetic drain plugs over the years as a cheap safeguard on remanufactured engines. Seemed a cheap insurance policy on a new motor as well, but probably overkill, as suggested.

 

Tests show miniscule difference in MPG with 5W30 oil and in Texas summers, say on the drive from Austin to EP on IH10 at 80 mph, I would be more comfortable with 5W30. Personal choice and not a warranty issue at all according to the manual, provided it is high quality synthetic.

 

I will wait on the catch-can for 60 months, but [aerosol] clean the intake valves at 30 mos and 60 mos.

 

I can tell you from experience that a catch-can works to remove a significant amount of carbon from the intake system on any vehicle.

 

As for the filter: I have deconstructed the Subie blue and I think it is good for 6K mi of "normal" driving - but it is not comparable in construction to an M1, a Bosch, the best WIX, or a Puroil Boss, and probably some others that I haven't sawed apart.

 

I only mentioned the "Boss" because it has the same unusually high spring pressure, 20lbs+, as the Sube blue, and that bypass pressure is "recommended" by Subaru. Because I don't race [any more, I used to SCCA in a Porsche when I was in my late 30s, but now I am 79] and I change oil and filter plenty often enough for it to never sludge and I am not in a cold climate and my car is garaged, I cannot imagine ever seeing anything near a 20# pressure drop across the filter, even on a cold start winter morning [after all, that is what 0W weight is supposed to prevent]. I have read an engineering paper that suggested in my situation I would never see a 10# pressure drop!

 

Thus I am personally happy with the synthetic medium in the M1 filter, as well. But I have no problem with any of the four I have mentioned for 6mo/6000mi oil changes and I wonder what problems you have had with the Pure, MoleMan? I would be glad to follow your advice, as there are other choices available, that I use, anyway.

 

One thing I have noticed over the years is that oil filters keep changing construction, and they change who manufactures them regardless of brand.

 

I am thankful for all your replies, as I am new here and it is not as active a site as Forester, for example. I will post photos in late April, if the delivery is as scheduled.

 

Mark,

 

To answer the filter question. This filter is a great filter. The problem I had with it is high performance engines seem to not like the filter. I have not tried it on something like my Honda R18. I prefer M1 filters on all my cars except for the Subarus. They are easy to source and have provided me with hundreds of thousands of miles of service. Once again this is a topic that can heat up in certain forums just the discussion of what oil is best. With Subarus you will find most people in this world tend to say stick with the stock OEM Blue(Honneywell/Fram)filter. Thankfully those of us with six cylinders still can buy the black Tokyo Roki filters which I do in twelve packs from my local dealer as they fit both the EZ30 and EZ36. Again Subarus tend to be picky with the PSI and its just to stick with the OEM.

 

 

As far as the oil catch can topic. I made the comment because this is a aftermarket component that is purchased mainly by people wanting race. It is very popular with the 350/370/G37 crowd and as most have pointed out those are NOT Di Engines. As far as the original question the answer still stands on if the engine has an issue they will look at that catch can setup. However most Subaru dealers probably would overlook it just like they do with alot of WRX's and fix the issue gratis. This will not even be a factor as you stated that you will wait until its off warranty to install.

 

Now as far as the oil catch can itself. I don't know if anyone is even producing one from a 7th gen that you can buy. Granted I have not looked at all but it seems like you might have to adapt one to fit but if you are mechanical this should be an easy task.

 

If carbon build up is such a concern then with buy a car with a DI engine in the first place? I would say by the time this is even a concern the engine would be will over 75K.

 

As far as the drain plug its understandable but the dealer would probably just take it and by the time you got home to inspect they would say "sorry we forgot but we can't find it" You could always go the Fumoto route as well so you can drain quicker.

 

As far as sludge Never have seen this issue with M1 or any oil honestly in the last twenty years and I have my cars sitting and driving at 20 below sometimes. The only car I own that was known for sludge in the engine is my 2000 1MZ-FE Avalon I have never had that issue but then again M1 always in the car. where you are in Texas I would not even be thinking about sludge especially if you change your oil on a normal cycle which it seems like you do. And I would agree 5w-30 is the best for your conditions.

[MoleMan]

Mark,

 

So just curious did you purchase the XT?

[MarkInAustin]

This will be my wife's sedan and will replace her Altima SL.