My ‘05 OBXT journal

[subisubisu]

Congratulations!

[xt2005bonbon]

congrats!

Get the BtSsm app now. Install it and begin checking all the parameters.

[killjoy323232]

Nice work! Hopefully the CEL is something fairly trivial.

[RumblyXT]

I want to first say thanks to God, without Him, nothing is possible. 

And of course thank you all who in one way or another helped me out, participated in this thread and were patient with my gazillion questions.. I really couldn't have do it without you guys.

Especial thanks (in no particular order) goes to: KZJonny, XT2005bonbon, Subisuisu, Blackobxt, Rhino6303, FebrezeMe, Enlight, Killjopy323232, seanyb505, silverton, Infosecdad, and everyone else.. sorry if I forgot your name. Thank you.

 

Edited July 3, 2023 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

2 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

congrats!

Get the BtSsm app now. Install it and begin checking all the parameters.

Yes will do! Also contacted the Tuner, can't wait to drive the car again.. 

[RumblyXT]

2 hours ago, subisubisu said:

Congratulations!

Thank you!

[RumblyXT]

1 hour ago, killjoy323232 said:

Nice work! Hopefully the CEL is something fairly trivial.

Yes, I'm hoping it's nothing major.. I have a feeling it might be related with the O2 sensor now located on the DP and/or the EGT sensor.. maybe not, we'll see..

[xt2005bonbon]

Good job man.

So, once you have the app running, I would check the following:

1. your learned fuel trims. You can view them when you 'pull' an 'LV'. It looks like this:

Note the row 'Learn %' with four values. The first one refers to the amount of fuel corrections the ECU learned to apply at idle. The second one is at very light throttle, 3rd one is medium throttle. 4th one is when you start to push it. So, obviously if the car has just been idling since the last ECU reset, the first value will be the only one populated. The rest will show zero. You want all values to be within +/-5%. If you have very large negative values, that could be an indication you have a boost leak (post IC) or a poor ground at the MAF wiring harness. If you have very large positive values, then you may suffer from vacuum leaks. All this assumes good o2 and MAF sensors.

 

2. check the 'VVT L' and VVT R' angle values. Usually, they remain zero at idle. When you begin to push the car, both angles should be non zero and in sync. If one of them is quite off from the other, then that is an indication that one of your OCVs is not working right. Either it is slightly stuck, or poor oil flow to it.

3. Misfire per cylinder. That is self explanatory. A count of 1 or 2 at random is OK. Pay attention to what they show at idle too.

4. FKC/FLKC: that's related to knock. If these parameters remain zero, then the ECU is not detecting knock. If it detects knock, it will then pull a certain amount of timing (unit in degrees). If it keeps hearing knock at a certain rpm/load, it will 'learn' to remove timing in these conditions until it no longer hears knock. The LV I mentioned earlier shows you a summary of where the ECU has pulled timing.

5. actual boost and boost target. Your ECU has a boost target table and it will try to reach these values when you drive the car. It is nice to keep an eye on it and compare it to actual boost.

I think that's enough for now.

Edited July 3, 2023 by xt2005bonbon

[RumblyXT]

24 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Good job man.

So, once you have the app running, I would check the following:

1. your learned fuel trims. You can view them when you 'pull' an 'LV'. It looks like this:

Note the row 'Learn %' with four values. The first one refers to the amount of fuel corrections the ECU learned to apply at idle. The second one is at very light throttle, 3rd one is medium throttle. 4th one is when you start to push it. So, obviously if the car has just been idling since the last ECU reset, the first value will be the only one populated. The rest will show zero. You want all values to be within +/-5%. If you have very large negative values, that could be an indication you have a boost leak (post IC) or a poor ground at the MAF wiring harness. If you have very large positive values, then you may suffer from vacuum leaks. All this assumes good o2 and MAF sensors.

 

2. check the 'VVT L' and VVT R' angle values. Usually, they remain zero at idle. When you begin to push the car, both angles should be non zero and in sync. If one of them is quite off from the other, then that is an indication that one of your OCVs is not working right. Either it is slightly stuck, or poor oil flow to it.

3. Misfire per cylinder. That is self explanatory. A count of 1 or 2 at random is OK. Pay attention to what they show at idle too.

4. FKC/FLKC: that's related to knock. If these parameters remain zero, then the ECU is not detecting knock. If it detects knock, it will then pull a certain amount of timing (unit in degrees). If it keeps hearing knock at a certain rpm/load, it will 'learn' to remove timing in these conditions until it no longer hears knock. The LV I mentioned earlier shows you a summary of where the ECU has pulled timing.

5. actual boost and boost target. Your ECU has a boost target table and it will try to reach these values when you drive the car. It is nice to keep an eye on it and compare it to actual boost.

I think that's enough for now.

And this is all monitored with the BtSsm app? Wow! Thank you.. not going to lie, it looks intimidating. But I'm sure it's like everything in life, once I understand it and can put it in practice, it'll be really helpful to truly know how the engine is performing. 

[xt2005bonbon]

Yep. You can track so much stuff with this. If you know what to watch out for, this can save you some real headaches and possibly a new engine. This thing has helped me avoid many potential issues. Get it like NOW!

I'll help you if you have questions. Btw, it can also check your CEL codes and reset the ECU too.

Edited July 3, 2023 by xt2005bonbon

[RumblyXT]

^^That is awesome! Thanks for pointing me in this direction, I appreciate it.

Car will be home, engine off, not driving it at all, till I get that tune. Way too much work/time on this already. I want to learn this app I was already looking at some videos about it.

Edited July 3, 2023 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

I still have to do some chassis/suspension work to make it run nice, like replacing the axles and adding newer suspension components, as well as re-doing the rear emergency brake.. last time I pulled the lever it clicked like 15 times and it doesn't engage at all. The Rack & Pinion might also become a future project, the steering is really not the best.. not very responsive.

I'd really like to get an Invidia Q300 cat back exhaust to make it the truly RumblyXT.

Thankfully I got a few parts already home waiting to be installed.

 

 

[xt2005bonbon]

If you still have the OEM axles (green cups), just put new boots and fresh grease on them. Avoid replacing them with aftermarket axles. They are mostly junk, except if you do get axles from Raxles. But $$$.

The emergency brake might just need some simple adjustments. The FSM shows how to do it. Pretty quick and easy I think.

Edited July 3, 2023 by xt2005bonbon

[killjoy323232]

Don’t know how crazy you plan to go on the suspension, but if the rear has never been touched, prepare to have some…fun…getting the old control arms/bushings out.

Mine’s still not done, but I’m very happy with my suspension so far. I only got to drive it about a week and a half before the HG went on mine lol.

[RumblyXT]

13 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

If you still have the OEM axles (green cups), just put new boots and fresh grease on them. Avoid replacing them with aftermarket axles. They are mostly junk, except if you do get axles from Raxles. But $$$.

The emergency brake might just need some simple adjustments. The FSM shows how to do it. Pretty quick and easy I think.

Yup, got those.. that’s exactly what I did.  Already 75% overhauled.. Found them at a great price on eBay.

One of the axles though, the needle bearings retainer broke so I’ll have to replace it a bearing of the ones I have in the car now..

Will also be replacing both ball joints and sway bar links..

Edited July 3, 2023 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

Looks like the BtSsm threads were deleted from this forum archive eh? Any other website to read/learn about this app?

[xt2005bonbon]

yeah, we lost that thread when the website got revamped, which sucked.

Not sure really at this point. I believe there is a similar thread on nasioc, as well as on the Aussie legacy site here. But again, feel free to ask questions here or create a separate thread.

[RumblyXT]

Happy Independence Day!  

Long live the Republic!  

[RumblyXT]

These are the codes I’m getting on the scanner. Weird that one of them is a transmission related code. Engine is behaving totally normal for now, thermostat opens fine at operating temp, fans kick in, motor runs very smoothly in general.

I can’t forget to connect that Right side ground..

Haven’t driven the car at all, just starting it and seating in it. Feels good to have it running again.

Oddly enough though, the Check Engine light went away on its own..  I’m not surprised it’s getting codes I guess.. I mean, there’s now a 2.0 long block swapped in there and the ex cams are retarded 7 degrees or so.. the computer is probably trying to make sense of what’s going on..

PS: Digging around found this on another post: 

“P0725 is typically caused by a bad cam or crank sensor preventing the ECU from sending a reliable engine speed signal to the TCU.”

Both codes seem to be related to each other.

Edited July 5, 2023 by RumblyXT

[xt2005bonbon]

Never seen this code before. At the same time, I have a manual trans.. Why don't you at least back it up, and drive it around the neighborhood? Or, at the very least, did you try to put it in drive while parked and see if she is ready to go?

[RumblyXT]

Google search gives code P0725 for Subaru.. but I haven't found info about it yet on the jdm/usdm FSM..

Being that I now have a jdm long block installed but a usdm I/M, injectors, wiring harness, when searching up DTCs, should I look in the jdm or the USDM FSM?

 

 

 

Edited July 5, 2023 by RumblyXT

[blackobxt]

Usdm. The brain still thinks it’s a usdm motor running in a usdm configuration 

[RumblyXT]

3 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Never seen this code before. At the same time, I have a manual trans.. Why don't you at least back it up, and drive it around the neighborhood? Or, at the very least, did you try to put it in drive while parked and see if she is ready to go?

I’m honestly concerned about messing something up before it’s tuned..

I heard it shouldn’t be reved past 3K? Which I’m not intending on doing till it’s tuned of course. But you think it’s safe to do some slow test drives around the block? 

[RumblyXT]

7 minutes ago, blackobxt said:

Usdm. The brain still thinks it’s a usdm motor running in a usdm configuration 

Got it. I looked in both, they seem to turn up the same info. These motors are very similar except for their displacement.

 I n the video I posted, at the second 20 mark, you can hear a “tak” noise.. and it couldn’t be the A/C compressor because it was off then..

Edited July 5, 2023 by RumblyXT

[xt2005bonbon]

8 minutes ago, RumblyXT said:

I’m honestly concerned about messing something up before it’s tuned..

I heard it shouldn’t be reved past 3K? Which I’m not intending on doing till it’s tuned of course. But you think it’s safe to do some slow test drives around the block? 

 

Where did you hear you should not rev past 3k? What you read is probably related to running the engine into boost I guess. Again, you could drive in your neighborhood at like 15-25 mph and it should be just fine. Then again, I am going back to having the BtSsm app up and running so you're not guessing how everything is running .