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Radiator replacement questions


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Hey All,

In the middle of replacing my rad, got a crack in it and it’s slowly leaking coolant. Got a replacement and in the middle of reinstall. Question is, I got the air blocker foam for the top and bottom, and the packing rad panel (p/n 45167AG00A). I noticed there’s some foam on the sides as well. Is this the packing side rad pnl? I’m trying to figure out how/where it goes on there, or is really even needed? It’s attached to a plastic piece with two pegs. Any help appreciated.

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Sorry, I don't understand.

 

When I put the big Mishimoto rad in my 05, I just took out the OEM, and dropped in the new.

 

Do you have any pictures ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Sorry, It’s kinda weird. There’s some foam attached to a plastic plate with two plastic studs. I got a chance to get a better look at it the other night and I couldn’t find for the life of me where they attach (on the old rad or new or anywhere around). Looks like they were just held in place by the fitment of the rad between the condenser. There was a foam strip on the side too of the old rad but I didn’t see anything that I could buy from any Subaru parts source. I got the top and bottom strip. I might just get some from the hardware store. From what I’ve read it just keeps the air from going out the sides when you’re not moving if the fans are running. Some ppl leave it out and haven’t reported any issues. I’m just putting in a stock rad since mines auto. Don’t feel like messing with an auxiliary cooler for trans lines just to accommodate an aftermarket rad. I’ll see if I can post some pics later. Got everything back together and ready to fill and bleed.
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Ok so how bad did I just $* myself. So filled the coolant system and burped it (about half a jug, which should have been my first indication-but only a rad replacement not full flush). Fired her up, had heater on low fan set to max thermostat (85*). Apparently the rad wasn’t filled all the way or there was a huge air bubble cause temp gauge spiked. I saw it start start to rise quickly and immediately shut off the car. Checked oil and no coolant. Didn’t rev it at all, just let it idle. Waiting for it to cool down now before I try again. Gonna add more and re-burp. I did get a new rad and reservoir cap and lines. Any advice?

 

Edit: did not jack car up but I did use a lisle funnel in the coolant reservoir tank so the air could get out. Also read somewhere else to change oil after temp spike. Just changed oil 500 mi ago. Is that applicable here?

Edited by SoobyDoobyDoo
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That temp spike while idling did nothing. Sometimes it helps to put it on full heat and jack up the passenger side a bit if it's being stubborn (even with the lisle funnel.)

 

Also let it idle for 15-20 min with the lisle funnel on, should get the air out.

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I agree with Marvick, I don't think there is any thing to worry about.

 

 

I have found my GT one of the easiest cars to fill, no jacking or other tricks required, just a simple, logical procedure.

 

With both caps off, fill the radiator tell full, wait a few minutes, refill, wait, refill. Usually after two or three times and about five minutes it wont take any more. Put the rad cap on.

 

Repeat the fill and wait routine for the turbo tank.

 

Now with the cap still off the turbo tank start the car and let it idle. The level will normally go down once things start flowing, top it up. For the first minute or so of idling keep adding coolant as needed, but don't bring the level up to the very top, leave a little room, maybe 1/2" or so.

 

After a couple of minutes it things will start to warm, the coolant will start to expand, and the level in the turbo tank will start to rise. Once the level comes up to full (where the bottom of the cap will sit), put the cap on.

 

Get in the car and check the gauge, it should start moving at this point. I normally run the throttle up and down a little as I watch the gauge come up. I don't know that it makes a real difference but my thinking is more flow might chase some air out. The gauge should come up to normal and the thermostat should open, now you have flow through the whole system.

 

Let it run for a while, check for leaks, and fill up the recovery tank. I find that the system will draw in a little more coolant after the first heat cycle (with full cool down), so I "overfill" the recover tank by any inch or two.

 

Now take it for a drive and keep a eye on the temp gauge. When you get back check for leaks and look at the level of the recovery tank, it should be where you left it or slightly higher.

 

I find if I do it right I can refill the system and end up with the recovery tank right where I want it without spilling a drop or opening a cap. Its become a bit of a contest for me at this point.

 

Wow, that got long, sorry. But I hope it might be helpful.

Gary

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Thanks Maverick & All_Talk. STill kinda Turbo Subie noob...I've done flushes before but it's been on old school Fords & GMs - fill, turn on, check for leaks, watch temp gauge. 9 times out of 10 no issues (and no temp spikes). I was afraid the downhill spiral to headgasket issues had begun...I'll take a little more time tonight filling.
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A huge thank you to everyone who responded. Added almost another entire bottle (in addition to the half already added)in the rad and expansion tank, re-burped, fired up again and warmed up nicely. Let it idle for a while and temp gauge seemed to sit just a bit lower than usual but I’ll take that over a spiking temp gauge. Letting it cool off so I can clean up the spilled coolant off the expansion tank and heads and exhaust. Smoked some while it was running…thankfully I didn’t find any leaks.
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