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Need help quickly: Invoice price correct?


SkiDaddy

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Hey guys, I'm set to move quickly on an LGT, but need to know if the invoice price the dealer gave me is correct. There are several conflicting "invoice" prices on the 'net, so I knew someone on here could get me the right answer.

 

The proposed deal is invoice pricing on the car + TT&L, and incentive financing rate. Is this a fair deal?

 

The car is an '06, with the following optioins:

 

FLOOR MATS, ALL WEATHER

AUTO-DIMMING MIRROR/COMPASS

ARMREST EXTENSION (OFF BLACK)

ROCKER PANEL TRIM,BRIL SIL MET

SPOILER, SD BRILLIANT SILVER METALLIC

 

List is $30,596

 

The quoted invoice is $28531

 

TIA! :)

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Sounds about right...now tell them to throw in tint & a rockblocker kit! I did the exact thing & was told no....I started walking & was told "you'd walk away from the car for that" Yep!

I got what I wanted

If you don't want the Rockblocker kit (full) get a STS;)

Toyota 6EATS .........SUCK!!!!!!
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yeah dealer needs to make money... as i always say.. the dealership like any other business out there is there to make money.. not lose money... i work at a dealership i sell subarus.. although im going to the the service side i love the negotiation part of the business. the msrp is gonna usually be about 2k higher then invoice. if you trade in a car then ask for invoice or below. the dealer usually trys to steal your trade in (if its not a pos). i just took in a porsche convert. for a base forester. go figurer. if the sticker on top MSRP says 32 k and with all the options and destination charges say 33k figure about 2k below the 33k. dealer mark on options is usually 20-40% so i ve seen. but remember if you like the car and you want it. anyprice will be a good price.

 

dealer prep is all profit

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But don't dealers get all kinds of incentives from the manufacturer to move units? Can't you get the dealer pre fee removed if you play hard enough? I got hosed for the $499, but it was termed a "Documentation Fee" on the contract. The dealer was disingenuous about it, saying that it was to cover title and other mandatory state fees. It was just plain mark-up.
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Dealerhold-back is what I believe you are talking about as far as "Dealer incentives" its actually designed to pay for the financing charges that occur from keeping inventory on the lot. Since all the cars the dealer buys are actually on a loan and acrueing interest, hold back is designed to pay for those finance/ intrest charges for 90 days. YES some cars will roll off the truck and be sold irght away, BUT some cars are around for far more then 90 days. Cars CAN be sold into the holdback every now and again, but if a dealership did that on every car they will go STRAIGHT out of business. Its not a profit tool by any means except for the motivation to turn your inventory quicker.

 

"DOC FEE" really covers some office and paperwork labor. You should never pay 300-400 some odd dollars!! thats HHIIGGHHHH! AND a good dealerhsip should not have to "pencil" this number in on your purchase and sale contract, since thise fee should be the exact same for every customer no matter what it should be PRE-PRINTED on the contracts (makes sense doesnt it?)

 

ALSO any sort of dealer prep fee in addition do transportation or doc fees is a load of crap.

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I'm sure you already know this, but since I didn't see it here I'll throw it out. '06s have a $1000 cash rebate. If they don't mention it, negotiate a price then tell them to subtract it out of whatever you've settled on. It's your money, so it shouldn't have factored into the negotiations unless you, or they, mentioned it.

 

Good luck!

 

--Dan

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HMMMM well in myeyes Doc fee is set everyone of my customers (including myself on my GT) pays the exact same DOC fee no questions asked its pre printed on the contract. Transportation (or destination charge) is also fixed and built into the price of the car, so again you wont find any good reason NOT to have to pay that, BUT and dealer prep fee sounds fishy to me..... shouldnt have to pay that but it depends on how you feel about the deal you are getting......

 

I look at it like this its YOUR deal take a DEAL you are comfortable with if its too much money and your not comfortable with it pass on it, if the dealer can do better they will let you know after you pass on the deal.

 

Just be wary of the "dealer prep" is there is one, if they give you invoice price but add in a 500 dealerprep WALK away

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kbb edmunds and whatever other internet source you may find can NEVER be gaurenteed to be 100% accurate, to be honest to date I have not had a single person bring in or be able to show me an online invoice that is actually accurate to the dollar.

 

Heres what you do, ASK THE DEALER TO SHOW YOU THE INVOICE, they should never hide it. If they do walk out.

 

And dealer hold back is nowhere near 1500-2000$, as was talked about in a previous post.

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Ski daddy did you actually find the promotional finance rates to be a better option for you? most times i have found that when a 1000$ rebate is available it has reflected better in the payment to take the rebate instead of the finance rate.

($1000 will change your monthly payment $20 over 5 years in most cases)

 

Interested to hear if your situation was the other way around.

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Yeah, I was going for the low finance rates.
More power to you! :)

 

However, all I could find offered by Subaru is 1.9% for 24 months. If that's the case, assuming $27K, your payments would be about $1,147/mo. If you were to subtract $1K and finance $26K, you would just have to find an interest rate of 5.58% to equal the $1,147 payment, all other things being equal. My credit union is offering 5.45% for 60 months, and I don't know if they have a 24 month rate for new cars, but I would think it would be even lower.

 

--Dan

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Well I ended up ordering my LGT from Corey at Planet Subaru. It's brand new still in the plastic! :icon_tong It'll be shipped down to me here in Florida, hopefully by the end of the year!:icon_bigg All for less than the local dealer who had a 5SM in stock would bargain for!:icon_conf

 

AND, my credit union has 4.5% for 72 months, so I get the rebate! :)

 

Many thanks to all who helped me in my search, especially Seth at Grayson Subaru and Sean at Mastro Subaru in Tampa. I really appreciate it guys.

 

Why is a stick shift so hard to find in Florida or Georgia? (At least at this time of year)

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ya know whats funny......... I have just been throwing my 2 cents into this thread because it was interesting, WHILE Corey has been talking to me about getting a Legacy GT to a gentleman in FL!!! (I work with Corey at Planet Subaru).

Ill make sure they give your car an extra buff!!! nice choice!

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