Another JDM Bilstein swap

[killjoy323232]

So, earlier this week, I ordered a set of front and rear strut assemblies (for fairly cheap, too!) for the Outback, since when I picked it up, it was exhibiting some straight up dangerous handling characteristics on the way home. The front and rear of the car were not on speaking terms, presumably due to some VERY worn out bushings on the rear and totally blown struts too.

 

I got around to bolting the struts in just as they are. The front is great, but the back of the car is still a disaster, thanks to me not having a coil spring compressor to get the studs out of the rear shocks (for some .5 in spacers...AFAIK you can just hit them really hard, even though the rubber top hat is in the way) and not knowing exactly how bad the bushings were. They’re so worn out, I can push the top of the wheel in at the top on both sides about an inch.

 

I think this week, going into the weekend, I’m going to order some LGT bump stops since the car is practically sitting on the old ones, and gradually start replacing control arms/bushings (I’ve read the lower forward ones go bad fairly quickly, so I may start with those. This multi-link rear is something else...). The car rides much better though, so I bet once I get the rear sorted out, it’ll be awesome!

Edited August 2, 2021 by killjoy323232

[bdcvg]

From that pic there is something wrong in the rear. Did You get Legacy rear Upper arms? If not You will never get it right until You do.

[killjoy323232]

In that pic, everything is stock Outback except for the struts and springs, which I believe came from a sedan (no spacers or LGT upper arms). Although, I think I'm going to buy a new set of uppers since the bushings are completely shot in the old ones, and it'll give me a little more travel.

 

The pic doesn't show it very well - not only is it squatting, but there's a lot of negative camber in the rear. I guess, logically, that'd be the upper links that are worn out, so I can kill two birds with one stone.

Edited August 4, 2021 by killjoy323232
Clarified parts

[bdcvg]

Wait, You put Outback springs on Legacy struts?

[NORULZleggy]

what in the name of subaru is going on here! I would have went with stock OB setup. Are you sure the rears are correct?

[killjoy323232]

Whoa, wait, I think I might have missed typing something in my last post (edited it for clarity)...I swapped in strut/spring assemblies from a JDM Legacy...probably a GT or spec.B, which is partially why the rear of my car is on the ground. So, straight Legacy Bilstein suspension.

 

I didn't change the springs, since I didn't want to run Outback springs on the Legacy struts (bad idea), and I didn't have a spring compressor on hand (or Legacy wagon springs, for that matter). I didn't want to go with OB suspension again, partially because it's WAY too soft for my liking, and I hated the way the car sat so high. I was trying to upgrade it on the cheap, and it kind of bit me in the rear.

 

I've got new Legacy upper control arms on the way since the bushings are completely shot, and I've got some .5 in spacers that should help with the droop in the rear.

[bdcvg]

O.K. You may find .5 spacers won't be enough. I went with legacy wagon springs all around and needed 1" spacers. The OB is just heavier back there. I had JDM Bilsteins for a bit and found that unless You are on perfectly smooth roads they are pretty stiff. If You are into that I found it helped to remove everything from the glove box, center console and change pocket. That reduced the slamming noise on harsh bumps. You will still have some camber issues unless You get Megan racing adjustable arms. You can get closer with the Whiteline offset bushings but the JDM springs will still leave neg. camber. Edited August 4, 2021 by bdcvg

[blackobxt]

legacy rear bump stops, whiteline adjustable camber bushings in the legacy rear uppers you have on the way and king springs for the rear. that will get you close to where you need to be, but you will find after an alignment that you might need to order yourself some more adjustment.

[killjoy323232]

Ah, all good info, thanks...I don't mind the stiffer suspension (I've had 2 Miatas and an MR2 Spyder), but right now, it's practically sitting on the bump stops so anything is an improvement over what it's doing.

 

So, sorry if I'm stating the obvious - if I'm looking at new springs (King or otherwise), I'd need to be looking at Legacy wagon springs, right? King's site had "raised" and "standard height" (ugh) for the Outback, which might be too much for the LGT/s.B struts.

Edited August 4, 2021 by killjoy323232

[blackobxt]

King Ksrs-29 will put you about level. It is a lift spring but will level you out

[killjoy323232]

Alright, got some Kings on the way. They'll take a while to get here (would have ordered from Primitive, but they had the "Outback standard height rears" listed as KSRR...which is the lifted spring).

 

If it wasn't going to be so dang hot this weekend, I'd be swapping the upper arms and installing spacers to make it semi-driveable (I took a flashlight and looked through the wheel and yep, it's resting on the stops...no surprise there). Silver lining is, I won't have to tear it apart multiple times.

[blackobxt]

As long as you ordered the ksrs-29 you are good. I got mine off of primitive, they ARE a lifted spring. The lift eliminates the saggy butt.

[killjoy323232]

So, I started working on the car, and immediately got stonewalled (like last time - stupid lower strut bolts) - except this time, my dumb self managed to round off both the inner bolt and nut on the D/S upper arm. So, we're going to take a grinder to it (and try to protect the various evap lines and what not that are already limiting access) and cut the bolt/bushing.

 

In the mean time, I'm going to place an order for some replacement bolts while I'm waiting on the Kings to come in. I might also see about trying to find a deal on some adjustable lowers, too, just so everything is complete.

[KZJonny]

If you're waiting a little on parts to come in, take advantage of the time and soak down everything with ATF/Acetone, Freeall, PBlaster, whatever.

 

Only mention it considering you've already got one rounded bolt that has to be cut out. I am also replacing all the suspension in my wagon and initial attempts to remove some of the hardware looked like it was going to end in rounded fasteners... A week's worth of spray down with ATF/Aceton mix and even the gnarly bolts didn't fight much. Could be worth trying anyway.

 

I learned the *really* hard way when a captive nut inside the chassis snapped off because it had rusted a little. Not fun.

[killjoy323232]

If you're waiting a little on parts to come in, take advantage of the time and soak down everything with ATF/Acetone, Freeall, PBlaster, whatever.

 

Only mention it considering you've already got one rounded bolt that has to be cut out. I am also replacing all the suspension in my wagon and initial attempts to remove some of the hardware looked like it was going to end in rounded fasteners... A week's worth of spray down with ATF/Aceton mix and even the gnarly bolts didn't fight much. Could be worth trying anyway.

 

I learned the *really* hard way when a captive nut inside the chassis snapped off because it had rusted a little. Not fun.

 

That sounds miserable...I was going to start on the other side before common sense got the better of me. I preemptively ordered another upper link bolt/nut for the other side, so IF I have to cut it, I won't be totally screwed.

 

Fortunately, I took care of the strut bolts already. How I managed to round off the smaller 17mm uppers and NOT the 19mm lowers is beyond me, because those guys were SEIZED.

[killjoy323232]

Well, lucky me...good news is, with some CRC Freeze-Off and my impact, a lot of the easier access bolts came free without a fuss.

 

Bad news is, I’d read that the rear toe bolts are usually a PITA. Mine are no exception - they’re frozen solid inside the stupid bushing. At least it’ll rotate, so I can get to it with an angle grinder/sawzall. So, between that, and the fact that I can’t find the replacement bolts I ordered, I’m stalled again. So, my shiny new King springs and Whiteline links are going to have to wait a bit longer.

[killjoy323232]

I'm going to work on the car this weekend, but I had a thought...

 

For those, like me, who are averse to sparks/flames (especially after using copious amounts of penetrant), could a ball joint tool work to remove the seized toe bolt from the inner metal sleeve? Put the cup around the entirety of the bolt head, other end against the threaded end of the bolt, and crank down with an impact...might be stupid, but who knows? Maybe the sheer shear (heh) force will be enough to overcome the corrosion?

[whitexc]

History tells us when dealing with rust and corrosion, what works for one or some isn't necessarily the only way. Give anything a shot and so long as the end result is that you win...go for it. I too don't much care for sparks and flames, although there are times when the job calls for it. If it can be cut and/or beaten out I'm in.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[killjoy323232]

Good point. Sure enough, had to use the death wheel a couple more times to get the toe bolts out. I've got stock replacements in now (on one side) until I can buy/fab a lockdown kit.

 

I specify "one side", because as it turns out, the trailing arm and new links are kind of a pain to wrestle back into place when you have basically nothing holding them in, in this case, the forward links. Just have to bust those 4 bolts free, install the 2 lower forward and the passenger toe arm I got with the KTA-124, then swap the springs.

 

The car has officially been on jack stands longer than I've been able to drive it. Here's hoping I can actually get it finished this weekend, because I am so looking forward to driving it with the new setup.

[killjoy323232]

Car's back on the ground and awaiting an alignment! One of the toe bolts in the rear has me a bit concerned - the nut is extremely tight, but the toe cam bolt can still move with a 2 ft breaker. Pretty sure that's not normal, but then again, it WAS frozen. I'll replace it with a lockdown kit since I'm running the adjustable arms.

 

The car feels much more stable now, albeit noisy. I'll chalk part of that up to just snugging up a lot of the bolts just to make it down the road. I've got a set of Legacy GT wheels/tires that I'm going to swap on next weekend, since the tires on it now are crap, but I'm very happy with it now.

[blackobxt]

That looks WAY better. Post a few pictures of it on the legacy sized tires if you would please. and gps it while your going down the interstate and post what rpm you are turning to do speeds.

[killjoy323232]

If it's anything like the FXT (which is currently wearing the Legacy alloys), it should be about 5% off. Can't remember if the wheels came off of a 2.5i or a GT - I got them from a wrecker. They've got 205/55's on them now rather than the OEM GT 215/45, but they're the '05 GT style wheels.

 

The ride is great so far. Definitely stiffer than stock, but that was the whole point - trying to bring handling closer to a Legacy than an Outback. Pre-alignment, there's still a little weirdness on REALLY rough streets, but that could be the trailing arm bushings (i.e. the only ones in the rear I didn't replace...or it could be bump steer), but it no longer wants to put you into the nearest tree or guardrail.

[killjoy323232]

Swapped the wheels yesterday. The front looks okay, but there's too much of a gap in the rear for my liking. I think something between OEM OBXT and OEM Legacy might do the trick. That, and some slightly higher offset wheels. I think it looks kind of stupid in the rear thanks to the OB cladding sticking out so far...or maybe I'm just noticing it with the lower profile tires. IMO, it looks way better than the "minivan" look that the OEM setup has.

 

The alignment came out okay. The rear is spot-on, but I might have installed one of the front struts wrong. -1 degree of camber and 4.9 degrees of caster on the RF, but -0.3 degrees camber and 5.9 degrees caster on the LF?

 

The GPSing will have to wait until I can fix the gauge cluster (I have another thread about THAT fiasco. LEDs behind the highway speeds have failed). That, and I have some simultaneous 0171 and 2097 codes to chase. Methinks it's a hole in the exhaust. Insert joke about feeding money into hood scoop

 

Here's where I'm at now:

[blackobxt]

Needs more low and maybe some spacers! but i agree, a tire in between would be ideal

[killjoy323232]

The suspension settled a bit more since I took that picture, but yes, that'd be awesome.

 

'08-'14 STi wheels with adapters would be pretty awesome. I remember seeing photos of someone's lowered OBXT (can't remember whose) on the '08 STi 5-spokes. It looks fantastic, IMHO.