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Cusco Lower bar brace installation question


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So, today I got the Cusco Lower Arm Bar Type I Brace, and I'm wondering how difficult the install is? It looks like you just tap out the bolts from the control arm and put it all back together. But, it also looks like there's a lot of potential for it to shift and misalign through the bolt holes. I'm wondering if anyone did this install before?

 

Should I put it on jack stands and try it/are ramps ok? I've never messed around with the control arms before, so I don't know. The control arms are pretty new, so no rust or anything. Might just have my alignment guy do it, if it's too risky or I need a lift. Last thing I want is to start it, and not be able to finish it. Thanks!

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I don't have a pic at the moment, but when looking at it, the bolt head is facing right where the bar would go. It would be easy if it was flipped and the nut was on that side, and you could just remove the nut and put it on. But it looks like the whole bolt would have to come out and get re-installed to accommodate it. I'll get a pic when I've got some more time. It's probably so simple that I'll feel silly posting this, but I thought I'd ask. Lol save myself 30 bucks on install.
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Your front LCA rear bushing will remain bolted to the car with the version I. Put the car on jack stands and remove the front LCA bolts, install lower arm bar, replace hardware.

 

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

I marked up a photo to help...

 

1-Put the car on jack stands

2-Remove nuts 3 and 4

3-Remove bolts 1 and 2

4-Align cusco lower arm bar holes with front LCA bush holes.

5-Insert bolts 1 and 2. Thru the lower arm bar, thru the first subframe tab, thru the LCA bushing, and thru the second subframe tab.

This step is easier with a Rolling pointed pry bar/alignment pry bar. I bought a 3 piece from HF for <$10. Do not pound the bolts thru, instead work the LCA front bushings into alignment with the subframe holes until the bolts slide in easily.

6-Install nuts 3 and 4 and torque. Front arm to crossmember: ----- 95 N·m (9.7 kgf-m, 70.1 ft-lb)

 

The front LCA bushing is already in double sheer, which is good, the lower arm increases rigidity by tying the crossmember LCA tabs together side to side.

 

I'll be installing a version 2 arm bar as part of my Outback ultimate subframe spacer removal project and I will post pics of the area you are working on.

c158fa13a03dab1c8401b3db37f123a5.jpg62a14d5f9beb4e5181297bea96db4c7b.jpg

Edited by norutah
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So, I got it installed by my alignment guy. There's not much room in there to get anything in there but a wrench. Sadly, I only had 12 points. The right side loosened, and the left side slipped. So, I stopped. Subsequently, I purchased a gearwrench 6 point metric wrench set. lol. For future repairs.

Also lucky it was previously anti-seized. My guy said he had to move a few things around to get at it, I'm not sure what that means. But it's in, and with all the braces, front and rear it feels more STI-like and less bouncy Outback-ish. He suggested coilovers, but I'm thinking regular old Bilstein HD or Koni... Not sure how coilovers would fly in the rust belt here.

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