Fourth Gen PPI

[Geofff]

Hi everyone,

 

I currently own an 09 2.5i 4at but have been periodically browsing the internet for clean GTs. I recently found one and want to make sure I can check out the known issues that these cars can have. What specifically should I be looking for before going further.

 

The car is a Bronze 08 lgt with ~78k miles and is listed for 9500. I feel like that is a fair price if everything checks out mechanically. What do you guys think?

 

Here is the carfax listed for the vehicle.

 

https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/ar20/3RlF7DZQez6qcpArUW_tHdqwcQ7Br3JKWdx6D_m7qnYGpwtxG0yR9TMFG6OmizKkUywBO88fRA-KOaQb4J7ZhF35oyij0LEKioU

 

Also, if anyone has a trusted mechanic, preferable that knows these cars, in the SW PA area that would be great. Currently I would have a PPI done by a dealership ~30 minutes away if I can't find anyone else.

 

Thanks!

[shralp]

Ideally a compression check and oil analysis from Blackstone labs to assess engine health. This and a good PPI to see what’s worn out. A number of suspension bushings probably are just due to age.

[All_talk]

All recalls performed? I would double check the brake lines, many times the dealer does the wax coating over corrosion and the lines fail anyway.

 

I second the compression/leak-down test. Broken ringlands are a know issue.

 

Given the cars location, RUST. It's more about time than mileage. (Be sure to check the bottom door seams.)

 

All turbo cars should have the intake tract checked for excessive oil film or pooling.

 

I'm sure others will add more.

[Pleides]

There's a list somewhere on here, but here's what I'd recommend.

 

The age of our cars lends to failure of a lot of things that aren't specific to these cars. Hoses, vacuum lines, bushings, etc. However, the factory bushings, sway bar endlinks, and seals everywhere use a very soft rubber that leads a short life.

 

The turbo should spool strongly at all RPMs below about 6K RPM. You shouldn't hear any whistle if the intake airbox is left alone with a factory filter and the lower resonator left alone. If you do then the car has a fat boost leak. I'd take the car to a performance shop and ask for a boost leak test and/or pre-dyno inspection so they can identify that sort of thing because an old turbo car will throw a ton of odds and ends at you if you have a boost leak. They can be sprung from anywhere, too. I had a leak shortly after my engine rebuild from the passenger side cam position sensor because the little o-ring had gone brittle. Now one of the o-rings on my injectors is dying on me at 218K and 16 years. So, if I didn't stress it enough - check all the rubber.

 

Is the car rusty? The fuel filler neck often fails on these cars in salted areas.

 

The wheel bearings tend to fail a lot on these cars. If you want to test these yourself, put the car up on a lift or jack up all four points on the car. If it's an auto then put it into park and leave the ebrake off. If it's a manual then leave it in neutral with the ebrake off. Choose a wheel to spin a'la Wheel of Fortune. Whilst you grab and spin that wheel, hold the spring in your strut/spring assembly and feel for any vibration at all. You should feel nothing in the spring. If you feel anything then you likely have a bad wheel bearing.

 

 

Leave the car stock and stay happy. Or modify it, prepare for it to break, and for the thing to fly and handle like a much more modern and athletic car!

[JmP6889928]

If you purchase it and it doesn't have them, immediately put on RSB supports or you can tear the useless thin tab off the frame and then you're in trouble.