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Rear CV Axles (Help/Advice needed)


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Hi, so I'm doing the rear CV axles. Both of them, I figure. The PO said they were never done with 250,000 miles. There's a very loud noise coming from RR, like a click or tire that's been sitting, and when I physically twist the CV axle clockwise/CC, there's a clicking noise. 99.9% sure that's it. The LR seems ok, but I'm going to do it anyways... Anyways, I'm getting a Milwaukee Tool V12 ratcheting 3/8" lithium ion to make the job easier. Any advice? Or warnings? Is the parking brake shoes going to be an issue? Any help or advice would be great! Any brand of CV Axle that you'd use? Autozone? Rock Auto? Stealership? It's a 5MT all original. Thank you in advance, Joel
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I'll assume rust is going to be the big issue.

 

Make sure you back off the parking brake to allow the rotor to slide off the hub without hanging on the shoes.

 

You can follow the rear wheel bearing DYI for ideas.

 

I wonder if it may be easier to disconnect the Prop shaft, rear diff yoke, remove the two big nuts that hold the diff in at the top of the diff and lower the diff on a floor jack. With the axle nuts removed the axles should slide out from the inside.

 

Is that possible ?

 

You do know these cars don't seem to have many issues with the rear axles ? Mine have 296,000 miles.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I'll assume rust is going to be the big issue.

 

Make sure you back off the parking brake to allow the rotor to slide off the hub without hanging on the shoes.

 

You can follow the rear wheel bearing DYI for ideas.

 

I wonder if it may be easier to disconnect the Prop shaft, rear diff yoke, remove the two big nuts that hold the diff in at the top of the diff and lower the diff on a floor jack. With the axle nuts removed the axles should slide out from the inside.

 

Is that possible ?

 

You do know these cars don't seem to have many issues with the rear axles ? Mine have 296,000 miles.

 

Rust really isn't an issue with mine. Even though it's a daily driver in WI. My brother got the initial rust proofing when he ordered the car and it's solid.

 

Uh... he also mentioned he replaced the front CV axles and never the rears. All I know is that it's loud when driving and there's play when you twist the axle by hand. I can't see any other reason for that noise, and there shouldn't be any play.

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I had to go out and get a cheap air hammer to remove my cv axles from my rear wheel bearings, maybe not something to worry about if your rear wheel bearings have been replaced in the last few years.
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I had to go out and get a cheap air hammer to remove my cv axles from my rear wheel bearings, maybe not something to worry about if your rear wheel bearings have been replaced in the last few years.

 

I did both of the rear wheel bearings, and coated the areas in question with good amounts of Anti-Sleaze. I also do have a pneumatic air hammer.

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I have an 06 spec B and I can not for the life of me find a right rear axle that says it fits a gt spec b... anyone out there have a part number? I bought an aftermarket rear axle and I remember someone’s review on it said it was too short and will pop out. I took a chance on it and it held up for a few month until it popped out today. Shredded the. Splines on the inside edge and the outer threads are slightly twisted.
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The 06 Spec B has the same axles as any 05-09 Legacy GT with a 5mt.

 

I would search google for places like R-axles, etc. I know with Covid, may be hard to find small companies that makes axles...

 

Oh, I see you other post where your all set.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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That's a lot to go through, and a lot are "access denied" or broken links.

 

I just tried, and did find an issues . Than I right clicked the link and selected, open in new window and the spill proof funnel popped up. try that way...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I have some rear axels I don't need. They have about 125K with the stock boots no clunks or funny noises when I pulled them, a grease/boot refresh would be needed. Let me know if you're interested. I don't expect much for them, but tossing them in the trash seems like a waste.
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I emailed r-axle... they only sell fronts....any other places?

 

Formerly known as MWE. I've heard good things about their rebuilt axles, mixed reviews about their communication.

 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Automotive-Parts-Store/FW-Enterprises-LLC-503867596304519/

 

Edit: Dealers can also get you subaru remanufactured axles. I can't guarantee they'll be able to get you rears, but it's worth a shot to call and ask.

Edited by apexi
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https://www.cvjreman.com/cv-axles/

 

Try that, it's in post #203 from JmP's sticky. Call them.

 

I'm not surprised your having a hard time finding a rear axle. Good Luck

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks for everyone’s help and input. I have read a few articles now on how the aftermarket cv axles have been 1/2 shorter than stock and have popped out for some Legacy owners. I don’t have my old cv axle to send out to be rebuilt and I don’t want to put in the aftermarket axle again. I called my local stealership and had them look up the correct part number by my vin. They wanted $399. Searched around online at different Subaru dealer pricing and was able to find it for just under $300. It’s way more than aftermarket but I’d rather pay that than try another aftermarket cv axle and potentially break my rear differential. I will update how it goes when it the part arrives.
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Thanks for everyone’s help and input. I have read a few articles now on how the aftermarket cv axles have been 1/2 shorter than stock and have popped out for some Legacy owners. I don’t have my old cv axle to send out to be rebuilt and I don’t want to put in the aftermarket axle again. I called my local stealership and had them look up the correct part number by my vin. They wanted $399. Searched around online at different Subaru dealer pricing and was able to find it for just under $300. It’s way more than aftermarket but I’d rather pay that than try another aftermarket cv axle and potentially break my rear differential. I will update how it goes when it the part arrives.

 

I saw that you ordered some from rock auto in your other post, but I have stock axle I was trying to get rid of and I’m local to you. I’m also in NOVA.

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I saw that you ordered some from rock auto in your other post, but I have stock axle I was trying to get rid of and I’m local to you. I’m also in NOVA.

 

 

Thanks. Trying to get something new so I don’t have to wait for a rebuild. I will keep you in mind if what I ordered doesn’t work out.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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For those that still have the OEM axle, Have you looked into buying the parts you need for a rebuild from the local dealership, most sell parts at a discount.

 

https://parts.suburbansubaru.com/a/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54106_6028582/REAR-AXLE-DRIVE-SHAFT/B13-281-02.html

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So wait, everyone seems to say aftermarket rear CV axles are shorter in length than OEM? Can anyone actually confirm that? Seems to me that RA lists many that measure 30 5/8” overall compressed length. Does anyone have an OEM to measure for comparison?

 

Also, is the part different from auto to MT? I see some on fleaBay that say OEM or JDM but don’t specify AT/MT. Is buying a used one and sending it in for a rebuild a good idea? My car is a DD and I don’t have time/another car to wait that long. Also when it’s all said and done, buying used axles and sending them in for a rebuild isn’t exactly cheap either. Plus, what if you get the wrong part in the first place?

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If you can find a OEM rear axle, talk with a local auto repair shop to see if they can rebuild it if you don't want too.

 

I had my right front rebooted years ago by a local shop.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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