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Am I an idiot?


evil03mustang

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Looking at (test drove) 2005 LGT 5EAT with 180,000 miles. Body good to fair. Timing cover missing bolts so likely had a belt change at some point. Leaking coolant from a couple hose fittings due to who knows what.. rust hole in trunk, trunk lid rusty bottom edge, rear wheel arches starting to go..

 

Runs very well, transmission shifts normally. Turbo does what it’s supposed to do when it’s supposed to do it. Fancy exhaust drags but that’s to be expected.

 

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/for/d/evans-city-2005-subaru-legacy-25gt-car/7264076143.html

 

I hope to pull the trigger today, but still open to suggestions. It’s slim pickings right now for AWD stuff under $5k. I could have budgeted higher, but I don’t want the debt.

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In my opinion, coming from another car where rust is very bad when you can see it... You really need to get under the car and see what the cradles look like and all of the exposed brake lines.

 

On a Beretta when you are able to see rust on the body, forget about the underside, it's gone. I know these cars hold up much better but with my 07 having similar rust, wheel arch, trunk lid, door skin... The underside is also in very rough shape.

 

It would suck to buy something like this, get it on a lift and find out some buddy squeaked it by inspection and the suspension is falling apart.

 

I was able to pickup a 06 from NY that had absolutely no rust on it, granted the engine was blown... But I've been slowly putting it back together and coating every inch under it with fluid film. Trying to make this one last, although I did get 11 yrs and 160k out of my current one.

 

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

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If you get it, please know the rear hard brake lines are a ticking timebomb if they haven't been replaced yet. They can/will rust through and fail eventually at the 4 way joint connector, and where they are held onto the body by plastic clips.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264698&d=1525216013

 

Full pdf document at the bottom of this post

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5790345&postcount=1

 

Edit: I just realized you're not a new member, so you might already know about this.

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If you get it, please know the rear hard brake lines are a ticking timebomb if they haven't been replaced yet. They can/will rust through and fail eventually at the 4 way joint connector, and where they are held onto the body by plastic clips.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264698&d=1525216013

 

Full pdf document at the bottom of this post

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5790345&postcount=1

 

Edit: I just realized you're not a new member, so you might already know about this.

 

Agreed!!!! this is where mine let go a couple months ago. Thankfully the 06 I have the lines look brand new in that area... trust me they are now dripping with Fluid Film... lol

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Thanks for everybody’s input.

 

I’m not paying full price.

 

I have a guy fairly local who I can buy takeoff parts from, so most major stuff is covered. The door skins are good, as the original owner had them treated (the waxy goo is hardened out the drain holes)

 

The jack pinches are good on the rockers. Underneath looks pretty good.

 

I have a friend with a lift, and I’ll be making a list as soon as I can get over to his place. I’m probably buying one of those Eastwood brake line flaring rigs anyway, so I’ll have no issue replacing bad lines.

 

Consider: my current daily is a 1990 Chevy K1500. I’m familiar with the extent of rust’s hunger for clean metal.

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If I can get away with no repairs over $200 for the first 6 months, my wife won’t care if I dump another $1500 into it. 😁

 

Well, excluding tires. It needs tires. 3/32 might pass inspection, but I need good winter tread where I live.

 

This isn't the car for you. With 180K miles, it is crap shoot on the engine and turbo. If $4k repair (parts not including labor) isn't in your budget, you should not be looking at them.

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This isn't the car for you. With 180K miles, it is crap shoot on the engine and turbo. If $4k repair (parts not including labor) isn't in your budget, you should not be looking at them.

 

Lol oops.

 

I bought it anyway. 🤷*♂️ Wish me luck.

 

It is rumored the timing and water pump were done at 90k... so it’s due again...

 

No overheat issues or anything even remotely resembling cooling issues.

 

We shalllllll seeeee.

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