Oil Separator Plate

[ATLspeed]

05 GT/Auto

 

Is it possible to replace the oil separator plate without removing the motor or trans? I am mechanically inclined btw. Thinking it may be possible by:

 

- removing the radiator

- cover/pad AC condenser just in case

- lifting/moving engine towards from of car with jack

 

 

Don't have access to an engine hoist and don't plan to buy one until the near future. Saw a pic of it being done while still in car but can't find it. My car is leaking ALOT on cold start ups below 55*F. So I need to take care of this before cold weather kicks in

Edited October 15, 2020 by ATLspeed

[apexi]

Risky I think, but my main reason for replying is to sub to this to see what others say because I'm in the same boat, but not sure if it's the rear main seal.

 

I've heard engine will want to pitch down when you disconnect the trans and dogbone mount, unless you put something under the crank pulley or between motor and core support. Also wonder about fuel lines and engine harness, exhaust, etc. Honestly think it might be easier to get a cheap transmission jack from harbor freight, but that's added $ of course. At the same time, I know you don't need much room either, couple inches maybe, so curious to hear from others.

[Max Capacity]

Are you talking about one of these plates ? Yes, the engine does tilt forward when the pitch mount and tranny are removed.

 

[apexi]

Yeah the plate to the right of the rear main seal, I don't know if those are known to leak on our cars? I know the older gens with the plastic plates had a problem.

[Infosecdad]

I can't imagine moving the engine without a hoist.

Not only is it dangerous, IF you did manage to get it separated and fixed; not sure how you could get it aligned to put back together.

I've pulled a Subaru engine 6-8 times now.

It can be a challenge with a hoist, I can't imagine how it's really feasible without one.

 

There are a few people that have managed to disconnect the tranny and shift it back 6" or so to do clutch replacements, that might be an option.

[boxkita]

the screws on that plate are finicky. If you're lucky they come right out. If not, you're going to be whacking an impact screw driver to get them out. An engine hoist is $200 at hf, cheap insurance at any price point. If you are really strong or have good insurance, you could pull the engine forward assuming you take the radiator out.

 

Are you sure this is your leak? That's a pretty obscure thing to latch onto especially if you have a manual. Because your clutch and flywheel would be coated with oil, too.

 

I'd steam clean the entire engine and bay, then check for leaks. Especially if the temp has to be below 55 degrees for it to show up.

[apexi]

I don't want to jack this thread, sorry in advance to the OP. I've had my leak for awhile, over a year, but less than two years. A couple months ago, less than 2 years and 16k after a dealer replaced my clutch, flywheel, and rear main seal, my clutch has started slipping. So that leads me to strongly believe it's my rear main seal or oil separator plate leaking, after previously thinking it was my oil pan gasket. I won't go into a lot of detail about this dealership experience, but I'm really unhappy after paying so much for a dealership clutch job. I've always defended dealerships, but.. this experience was bad for many reasons. SOA told me to pound sand twice.

 

 

I'm debating doing this job on my wicked uneven garage floor using a transmission jack, but I don't know. Car was teetering on front left and rear right stands last time. I could pull the engine, but I really don't want to, never having done it before and working alone.

Edited October 15, 2020 by apexi

[Max Capacity]

I don't want to jack this thread, sorry in advance to the OP. I've had my leak for awhile, over a year, but less than two years. A couple months ago, less than 2 years and 16k after a dealer replaced my clutch, flywheel, and rear main seal, my clutch has started slipping. So that leads me to strongly believe it's my rear main seal or oil separator plate leaking, after previously thinking it was my oil pan gasket. I won't go into a lot of detail about this dealership experience, but I'm really unhappy after paying so much for a dealership clutch job. I've always defended dealerships, but.. this experience was bad for many reasons. SOA told me to pound sand twice.

 

 

I'm debating doing this job on my wicked uneven garage floor using a transmission jack, but I don't know. Car was teetering on front left and rear right stands last time. I could pull the engine, but I really don't want to, never having done it before and working alone.

 

apexi, With as much as you know about these cars, you should be able to pull your motor by yourself. I did mine alone. Just remember to have rear of the car high enough to help line up the tranny input shaft into the Pilot bearing. Took me a few to figure that one out when going back together.

 

May be a square of plywood under the floor jacks may help out with balance.

[ATLspeed]

I'm going to give it a shot. Engine hoist may be just $200 but that's $200 that can go towards something useful. I'll use the jack and some jack stands with blocks of wood to support the motor. Worst case scenario is if the screws don't come out without too much effort. May just use a dremel cutoff wheel to make a slot for a flathead screw driver with a wrench or vice grips on them.

 

I initially thought it was the oil pan or the turbo return. So I put it on the lift and pulled the pan and resealed it along with replacing the turbo return line. That was 3yrs ago. Notice when the weather is cold in the fall/winter it will leak until the motor warms up. It's embarrassing to have dedicated parking spot due to the spots from the leaks lol

Edited October 15, 2020 by ATLspeed

[boxkita]

I'm going to give it a shot. Engine hoist may be just $200 but that's $200 that can go towards something useful. I'll use the jack and some jack stands with blocks of wood to support the motor. Worst case scenario is if the screws don't come out without too much effort. May just use a dremel cutoff wheel to make a slot for a flathead screw driver with a wrench or vice grips on them.

 

I initially thought it was the oil pan or the turbo return. So I put it on the lift and pulled the pan and resealed it along with replacing the turbo return line. That was 3yrs ago. Notice when the weather is cold in the fall/winter it will leak until the motor warms up. It's embarrassing to have dedicated parking spot due to the spots from the leaks lol

 

budgets and turbo cars. i just don't get it. if $200 breaks the bank, how do you afford everything else?

 

cracking the seal with transmission is easy with a hoist and the tilt mechanism. its a pain with the lift alone. its damn hard without a hoist. You could do it, but you could so many other things with those hours too. Drive uber for a couple days & buy a hoist.

 

if you have a lift, how come you don't have a hoist? usually having the money for a lift means hoist money already existed

[ATLspeed]

budgets and turbo cars. i just don't get it. if $200 breaks the bank, how do you afford everything else?

 

cracking the seal with transmission is easy with a hoist and the tilt mechanism. its a pain with the lift alone. its damn hard without a hoist. You could do it, but you could so many other things with those hours too. Drive uber for a couple days & buy a hoist.

 

if you have a lift, how come you don't have a hoist? usually having the money for a lift means hoist money already existed

 

 

I know what you mean, but this is one of those moments where you’re digging too much into the situation for information.

 

- $200 breaks the bank now because my “build/vacation” savings have been spent on the Supra to rebuild the bottom end/built top/single turbo/build diff/clutch/etc. That $200 will be coming out of pocket to go towards my certification test for my job. Also I had to take off 2wks from my job due to covid. Should have been paid leave, due to company policy, but they didn’t.

 

- Can’t drive Uber due to vehicles being a 2005 and a 1995, neither will pass MD State Inspection

 

- I was automotive technician/mechanic in 2017 when I replaced mentioned parts. In 2018 I moved and switched to careers. So I don’t have access to a lift anymore.

 

*Hoist that was used to pulled the motor out of the Supra is being used currently by the owner

 

 

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Edited October 16, 2020 by ATLspeed

[ATLspeed]

I may see if I can rent one at the very least. Even though this is just my beater, I know I’m going to want to clean off all that caked on oil lol

 

 

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[boxkita]

too bad it's covid. there's probably a lgt owner near you with all the tools you need. alot of maryland owners

[apexi]

I watch his videos from time to time, and after watching this one, I don't know. If you remove the rubber boot and disconnect the flexplate from the torque converter through it, it seems more doable, but I don't know how hard it is to get access to that window/boot on the turbos. On my non-turbo it's not too bad, but I think there's probably a lot more stuff in the way on your car. It sounds like you know a heck of a lot more about cars than I do, but I just wanted to throw that out there anyway.

 

Also from looking into this in the past one of those oil separator plate bolts/screws has loctite on it from the factory, I think the one next to the arrow and it might even be a different color screw. Wonder if it's not a bad idea to just put it on all of them to be safe.

Edited October 17, 2020 by apexi

[ATLspeed]

Well it’s possible. Wouldn’t recommend though. I had a gut feeling the screws didn’t have loctite due to the other half ass hack work on it from the previous owner (see previous thread). One screw came off easily.

 

*Also found this link

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1805288

 

 

 

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Edited October 18, 2020 by ATLspeed

[Max Capacity]

Looks like you have found the problem.

 

Good Job.

[Tehnation]

guess I saw this one to late. Of course its possible to get in between there without pulling the tranny or engine, hasn't ANY of you changed your clutch before?? lol . There are a bunch of ways to do it.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-clutch-replacement-video-126975.html

 

thats the move the tranny back method, most common method.

 

Make sure you use sealant when reinstalling the plate. And if your replacing it, there are 2 types both use a different and specific screws.

[leetdrv]

Definitely more than 10 years experience working on cars, my guess is somewhere in the 15-20 range.

[ATLspeed]

guess I saw this one to late. Of course its possible to get in between there without pulling the tranny or engine, hasn't ANY of you changed your clutch before?? lol . There are a bunch of ways to do it.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-clutch-replacement-video-126975.html

 

thats the move the tranny back method, most common method.

 

Make sure you use sealant when reinstalling the plate. And if your replacing it, there are 2 types both use a different and specific screws.

 

 

Mine is auto, so it wouldn’t have done me any good trying to fight the torque converter from falling out and spilling fluid everywhere lol. Although now I think about it, I could have probably put together a bracket to hold it in place.

 

But that thing is heavy with fluid and torque converter

 

 

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[ATLspeed]

Looks like you have found the problem.

 

Good Job.

 

 

Unfortunately the leak is still there. I just barely see it dripping off the middle of the blocks lip and onto the subframe. So it’s looking like the rear main seal is the culprit.

 

Now I have to convince myself to pull it apart again lol. I can do it in a day luckily

 

 

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[Tehnation]

jack the car up and just drop the entire front suspension, engine brackets and tranny brackets all in one shot, then you can pull the motor forward. Disconnect the proper connections, the top hats, rear parts of the lower control arms, and whatever else.

 

Captain hindsight checking in! You should of inspected the main seal while you were in there because that is way more prone to leaking than that random plate. That sounded weird to me from the get go, first off, that plate cover is for the crankcase ventilation, not much oil gets in there. It's also the access for one of the piston wrist pins, and that's sealed as well. Basically not much oil gets in there unless its splashing around, and if it does, theres is a drain on the bottom, so the likelihood of that leaking is very slim, it's not pressurized. The entrance is pretty high on the block, oil's gotta get pretty high to get in there.

 

Some pics for others.

 

 

 

 

Edited October 21, 2020 by Tehnation

[boxkita]

all the rest of the piston pin access holes are sealed at the hole. this is the only one not. hmm

[Tehnation]

it is sealed!?!?! all four are, 3 plugs and 1 plate. That hole is threaded! On the other side is a plate and rubber gasket with 2 screws, and the front 2 are the same plugs. Edited October 21, 2020 by Tehnation

[ATLspeed]

 

Captain hindsight checking in! You should of inspected the main seal while you were in there because that is way more prone to leaking than that random plate. That sounded weird to me from the get go, first off, that plate cover is for the crankcase ventilation, not much oil gets in there. It's also the access for one of the piston wrist pins, and that's sealed as well. Basically not much oil gets in there unless its splashing around, and if it does, theres is a drain on the bottom, so the likelihood of that leaking is very slim, it's not pressurized. The entrance is pretty high on the block, oil's gotta get pretty high to get in there.

 

I had feeling to change it "while I'm there" but didn't it was leaking since the screws were loose for the plate. Also I kept seeing it's a common failure point for leaks. I don't know the inner workings of the EJ motor as I do a 2j, so I didn't know what the plate was for except the crank ventilation was tied to it. Big oof on my part. I'm going to order the rear main seal from the dealer today and just replace it.

 

I started the thread and would like to end the thread with good news:cool:

[apexi]

This is from an older gen, but I thought about buying one of these pvc drain caps(?) for if/when I tried doing mine.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3235023&postcount=51