Guidance on JL Audio & Focal component selection

[SkiDaddy]

Hey guys, I've read beaucoup posts & have learned some things related to the LGT specifically, and am confused on others. I'm trying to build a system that will give me excellent imaging and faithful reproduction during actual driving, at moderate volume levels; I will not be competing nor is maximum SPL an issue. My yardsticks to gauge sound quality are Pink Floyd and Trans Siberian Orchestra. My kids will ride in the back sometimes, so I'm only using front mounted components (I'm told this is the way to go for fidelity). I want to retain as much trunk volume as possible, and will be keeping the stock HU in conjunction w/a JL Cleansweep.

 

Having said that, I've auditioned many component speakers, and find that for me Focals are the best in the $350 or so range for a set of components, at least as mounted in the store's enclosures. From what I've read here 165 V Slim components will fit, but require a spacer ring. Does anyone know what ring thickness? Or does someone have a better recommendation in the $350 range as actually mounted in the vehicle? I will of course be using sound deadening materials in the doors.

 

As to amps, JL seems to sound cleanest for my application. How much power/what model 2 channel amp should I use for the component speakers?

 

Finally, the great sub question. I've seen several fine examples of custom built fiberglass subs. Will these sound as good as a proper MDF enclosure? If not, which enclosure should I buy? One of the JL series? Which JL sub should I use, and how much power/what amp for my application?

 

TIA!

[executor485]

Well, as a suggestion... have you checked out the Infinity Kappa Component set? I personally like the clearness of the infinity series, but I do not have them installed in my car yet either. The 6 1/2 component set runs around $299 and have, IMHO, gorgeous sound.

As for the subs, I heard the JL Audio 10" entry level subs, and the upper class ones as well. They sound gorgeous and as an added bonus they require VERY little airspace to be effective. So, they will take up very little trunk space if you decide for an MDF box.

Thats just my 2 bits in it, I am sure there are many other good ideas as well from people more experienced in this. But if I was to choose I find these to be very quality choices.

[SkiDaddy]

I did listen to the Infinity units, but not in the same store. The Focals at Car Toys were really great.

 

As to subs, that's why I posted, to see which 10" JL I need.

[msmith]

Which sub to choose essentially will depend on available box volume and available sub amplifier power.

 

A single 10-inch is enough for smooth bass (not street-bangin' bass). Either the 10W1v2, 10W3v2 or 10W6v2 will produce excellent performance... the right choice depends on amplifier power (below 150 watts it's the 10W1v2, between 150-300 the W3v2, 300-500 the W6v2.

 

As for amps, you might consider a 500/5 which can run your whole system Front, rear and sub. With this amp, the W3v2 is a great choice.

 

You could also go with an e6450 six-channel which is well-matched to a single 10W1v2-4 (150 watts).

 

For a bigger power system, a 450/4 for the front/rear and a 500/1 for the sub (W6v2) is about the limit with the stock alternator. I've run this setup and it is excellent.

 

Did you listen to the JL Audio VR and XR components, by the way?

 

Good luck with your system!

 

Manville Smith

JL Audio, Inc.

[1freak]

I have used a few brands of seperates, which include jl, kicker, infinity. Like someone stated infinity has good sound for the money but are not there for the longivity (blew up two sets:icon_evil ) they couldnt handle the power of the v12 I had. The jl I never gave a fair chance they werent what I wanted so I gave them up. I,ve run two different Kicker sets which I enjoyed. they handle the ups and downs of my music selection. Jl subs are the only way to go no matter what. w0, w3, w6 whatever they all sound awesome I have used almost all, from 8w4 to 10w0 and even an18w6 (dont ask)

I've never been dissapointed with them. There is one Jl sub (or two:icon_bigg ) for every budget or every application (kids)

[NatesGr8]

For my component speakers i've always been a fan of boston acoustics, give those a listen if you have a chance. for subs i've used pretty much everything out there. I'd say for what you're looking for go with a w3, they are a very nice medium, but can give you plenty of bass if you want it. Just make sure you can deliver it the power it needs.

[SkiDaddy]

Which sub to choose essentially will depend on available box volume and available sub amplifier power.

 

A single 10-inch is enough for smooth bass (not street-bangin' bass). Either the 10W1v2, 10W3v2 or 10W6v2 will produce excellent performance... the right choice depends on amplifier power (below 150 watts it's the 10W1v2, between 150-300 the W3v2, 300-500 the W6v2.

 

As for amps, you might consider a 500/5 which can run your whole system Front, rear and sub. With this amp, the W3v2 is a great choice.

 

You could also go with an e6450 six-channel which is well-matched to a single 10W1v2-4 (150 watts).

 

For a bigger power system, a 450/4 for the front/rear and a 500/1 for the sub (W6v2) is about the limit with the stock alternator. I've run this setup and it is excellent.

 

Did you listen to the JL Audio VR and XR components, by the way?

 

Good luck with your system!

 

Manville Smith

JL Audio, Inc.

 

Manville, I'm looking for natural, accurate, uncolored sound and excellent imaging at moderate volume levels. I'm also looking for a small volume sub enclosure. So perhaps the 10W1v2 would be the best choice for this application? Should I get one of the JL enclosure/sub combos?

 

Also, are you infering that I run front AND rear drivers (aside from a sub)? I've had several high end shops tell me front components only for optimal imaging.

 

I did listen to the JL components Car Toys had, but don't remember the model numbers. Do they carry the "good stuff"?

 

Thanks.

[al-gorithm]

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7154

 

I have focals, plus some other users posted thier installs here too. Take a look...

[SkiDaddy]

Thanks al, that's informative. I've also searched & saw some other folk's installs, but didn't come across a specific thickness for the spacer ring to be used w/Focal 165v Slim components, so I'm still looking for that info.

[Boulderguy]

I sized the Focal 165 Utopia's for my front end, thier mount depth was I think 80mm, which is just a hair more than the Quarts. The Quarts will fit with a 3/4" spacer, so I believe the Focal's will too. I'm currently using a 1" spacer, it fits fine, so I'd say with that size spacer you *should* be fine with any of the Focal drivers.

 

Did that make sense?

[LittleBlueGT]

I have the Alpine type-X components in the front (6.5 inch). Needed a one inch spacer, but it all fits behind the door panel. Alpine's type-X speakers have a crossover with built-in tweeter level control and phase control (only speaker in the price range that has that) that really helped with proper imaging.

[SkiDaddy]

So it sounds like I don't have to get 165V slims, regular 165s will fit w/a 1" spacer!

[Boulderguy]

Hey, be aware that I never actually installed those - they will fit on paper, so to speak, but I'm not 100% positive.

 

Side note - the Utopia series are easily the most impressive 6.5's I've heard, well worth the high $$. They're power-hungry tho.

[al-gorithm]

My polyglass are amazing. My friend owns a shop and has the whole line up (6.5s, separates) and their corresponding subs. I got to do the pepsi challenge between all of them and found that the polyglass were a great balance of sound and price. Ofcourse I would have gone Utopia, those things are crazy kick ass clarity.

 

You could totally hear the difference in sound between all of them, as you went up the line, they kept getting better and better.

[SkiDaddy]

Al, are you using the 165V2 series? If I may ask, where did you buy them?

[nj2481]

Well, as a suggestion... have you checked out the Infinity Kappa Component set? I personally like the clearness of the infinity series, but I do not have them installed in my car yet either. The 6 1/2 component set runs around $299 and have, IMHO, gorgeous sound.

As for the subs, I heard the JL Audio 10" entry level subs, and the upper class ones as well. They sound gorgeous and as an added bonus they require VERY little airspace to be effective. So, they will take up very little trunk space if you decide for an MDF box.

Thats just my 2 bits in it, I am sure there are many other good ideas as well from people more experienced in this. But if I was to choose I find these to be very quality choices.

 

I have a infinity Kappas and a JL audio 10W6 (in a stealthbox enclosure) in my 1998 VW Gti.

 

They are hooked up to a Rockford 5 channel amp.

I have not found a Genre of music that DOESN'T sound good with this set up, and I do not have a fancy schmansy head unit, either. I use mp3's with a 128 bit rate, and it still sounds great.

Only thing that stinks is that the people installing all the stuff messed up my AM reception.

[al-gorithm]

Al, are you using the 165V2 series? If I may ask, where did you buy them?

I bought them at Altered Sound in Oakville, Ontario, Canada. My buddy owns the shop and yes they are the V2s

[Xantium]

I was hoping to run two 10w3v2's off a jl 500/1 but the rear sub output says "mono output only"... wth does that mean. I obviously dont know what im doing so hopefully you guys can help.

[Boulderguy]

It's fine, it just means left & right are combined into a single channel, but can run more than one speaker no problem. Two 4-ohm subs will do nicely.

[al-gorithm]

They're dual voicecoil so you will have to wire them according to thier ohm rating.

 

Dual 2 ohm - Wire the voicecoils in series to make a 4 ohm load for each speaker and wire the two subs in parallel for a 2 ohm load combined.

 

Dual 4 ohm - Wire the voicecoils in series to make an 8 ohm load for each speaker and wire the two subs in parallel for a 4 ohm load combined. If you want more out of the subs, wire the voicecoils in parallel to make an 2 ohm load for each speaker and wire the two subs in parallel for a 1 ohm load combined since your amp can handle a 1 ohm load (check the THD on the amp at that resistance, the lower the better or you will start to hear distortion).

 

Dual 6 ohm - I have never run 6 ohm subs before but since your amp can handle a low resistance wire the voicecoils in parallel to make a 3 ohm load for each speaker and wire the two subs in parallel for a 1.5 ohm load combined.

[Boulderguy]

I'm pretty sure that amp's got a regulated power supply, so it should be the same output at 2-4 ohms.

[al-gorithm]

Well, if you get the dual 4 ohm, wire each sub in series first then parallel together, if one sub blows, the second sub will be an 8 ohm load and not blow that one too, just a precaution.