JJr Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 Original owner 136k wagon. Clunk/rattle that sounds like it's coming from the passenger front end, only at low speeds 20-30 mph on less then perfect roads, if I apply the brakes while driving it goes away, no issue at higher speeds. I though it may be the end links or front sway bushings so I changed those out and it's still there. I wonder if it has anything to do with the caliper or rotor? Any thoughts would be much appreciated! Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 probably ball joints Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 Ball joints sound like a potential culprit. Would be a good idea to jack the car up on four jackstands or on a lift and test all four wheels for play, check ball joints, wheel bearings, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 Ball joints or control arm bushings 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 Thx guys LCA's were replaced not long ago, I'll have my mechanic look at the ball joints tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outback2.5XT-05 Posted August 17, 2020 Share Posted August 17, 2020 You might want to check the caliper slide pin bushing on the passenger side. This bushing was swollen and not working right on both sides but only produced a clunk and rattle on driver side for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 Mechanic says ball joints are good, I'll have the caliper slide pin bushings checked, thx Outback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 You might want to check the caliper slide pin bushing on the passenger side. This bushing was swollen and not working right on both sides but only produced a clunk and rattle on driver side for me. Outback please excuse my ignorance, which caliper slide pin bushing do you recommend I buy and install. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 26288D if you can pull that pin remove that rubbery piece. You'll want to grease that pin and the others with a good brake grease. I just bought 3M Silicone grease from NAPA for $24.00. It's not cheap but its the best stuff. So I'm told. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 Thx Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 (edited) Mentioned the caliper slide pin bushing to my mechanic, he said it's not that he thinks it's the strut top hat. OEM top hat description: Suspension Shock or Strut Mount Strut mounts or strut bearings are often service with the strut assembly, and when they fail they can make a squeaking noise while turning or a metallic clunk noise when going over bumps. If your 2005 Subaru Legacy is noisier than usual on bumpy roads or under braking, you may need new strut mounts. I find it interesting that the description says noisier under braking when my annoying sound goes away under braking. Thoughts anyone? Edited August 20, 2020 by JJr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outback2.5XT-05 Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 I find it interesting that the description says noisier under braking when my annoying sound goes away under braking. Thoughts anyone? Check the caliper pins yourself. You can take a look with basic handtools. It should only take you ~15 minutes per side even if you have little mechanical inclination. Start with the most simple possibily and go down the line. These bushings and grease to put it back together shouldn't cost more than $20 and 30 minutes of your time. The strut mounts are significantly more expensive to replace. Your description sounds exactly like my case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 I'll add the brakes on these cars are easy to work on. Pull the wheel, use a 14mm box wrench to remove the two bolts on the slider pins which hole the caliper to the bracket. (you may have to use a 3/4" open end wrench to hole the collar on the pin). Those pins will remain, which have rubber boots on them. Those pins should push in and bounce back. The piston in the caliper can be pushed back in with a 6" C clamp. The pads should slide freely in the spring clips in the brackets. If they don't grind down the tabs with a bench grinder until they slide easily, use a good grease on the tabs when you reinstall the pads. Yeah it's easy for those that have the tools and have done this for years. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 22, 2020 Author Share Posted August 22, 2020 Thx Outback and Max I'll be replacing those pin bushings 1st, I'll let you guys no the outcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk02nhxVNWFiyUQPcx5jJmZEft80vBg%3A1598103261555&source=hp&ei=3R5BX8iwHuOGggeOt4-4Bg&q=3m+silicone+paste&oq=3M+sili&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQARgAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADoNCC4QxwEQrwEQJxCTAjoFCC4QsQM6BQgAELEDOgIILjoICC4QxwEQrwE6CwguELEDEMcBEKMCOg4ILhCxAxDHARCjAhCTAlDGDFjaJmDnTWgAcAB4AIABW4gBuASSAQE3mAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpeg&sclient=psy-ab That's the best grease out there for the slider pins from what NAPA tells me. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 Could be the top hat. It caused a bit of rattling in my 5th gen. I found that bouncing the car with a hand on the top hat, i could feel a bit of play. But check that all the nuts (3x top hat to body and 1x strut to top hat) are tight. Common on the 5th gen forums to find the strut nut loose and causing a ruckus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Hi Guys going to change the caliper pin bushings and rotors/pads at the same time. I want to confirm I don't need new pins only the bushings (rubbery things, MAX:)) Do I need OEM bushing or will Raybestos work? Thx All! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Make sure the pads slide free in the spring clips in the caliper bracket. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Ok, sent you a PM my friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outback2.5XT-05 Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 Hi Guys going to change the caliper pin bushings and rotors/pads at the same time. I want to confirm I don't need new pins only the bushings (rubbery things, MAX:)) Do I need OEM bushing or will Raybestos work? Thx All! You shouldn't need new pins unless yours are somehow damaged. Raysbestos or centric should be fine. I used NAPA brand and they worked but I did get a dud set from oreilly or autozone that were too large and wouldn't allow the pin to slide properly so check function before reinstalling your wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 OK great, thx Outback, I'll update when the noise is gone!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojasher25 Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 Upper slide pins lacking grease will cause rattles. Worn brake pads will also cause rattling and it definitely goes away with braking. You can test this by sticking a flathead screwdriver between the lower pad tab and prying down on it. If the pad moves up more than a millimeter it can rattle at low speeds. Replacing pads and clips will fix that. Don't forget to grease whatever slides Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 Thank you guys, I hope this proves my mechanic wrong about the tophats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted September 6, 2020 Author Share Posted September 6, 2020 Outback and Max you proved my mechanic wrong! Changed the pads and rotors at the same time, all new bushings on and around the pins ( passenger side didn't have one, I didn't do the brakes 35k ago, WTF) Thx guys, you saved me several bucks, the least I can do is send beer money via PP, PM me your PP address's for beer Please! I would have been furious if I swapped out the tophats and the clunk was still there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 (edited) Glad to hear the brakes were the easy fix. Check the sticky at the top of the Suspension Forum, I have posted some recent pictures of things I learned about the brake springs. A lot of the recent reman brakes parts are ...well less then ideal. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clints-tips-and-tricks-brakes-58401.html Edited November 2, 2020 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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