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Rojasher25

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  1. It depends on who makes them really. They're so inexpensive I don't think it matters. If you compare a 194 with a 168 they can either have a long filament held by 2 support stems or a shorter filament with a single stem. The only place where it would really make a difference is in older gauge clusters where these bulbs were used. A 168 could possibly damage the plastic or make part of the cluster look brighter. Either one will work. These are also used for the license plate and the outer markers in the rear. Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
  2. C0109 is power voltage malfunction. It comes on when power is too low or too high. Your alternator may be going bad or there may be a fault in the ground/power circuits of the abs module. C0107 is abnormal signal from front right sensor. You indicated that you already replaced the sensor which may not have been needed since it is an abnormal signal code, not an open circuit code. So that rules out contamination on the sensor. Check the magnetic encoder on the back side of the wheel bearing/hub assembly. It may be damaged/have rust or metallic particles on it which will create an abnormal signal. If the ring is damaged, the whole hub assembly will need replacement. Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
  3. Unless you have a jdm 07 gt you most likely don't have a vf44 turbo. That is a twinscroll turbo and I'm not aware of any bolt on options for that due to the massively different up pipe which uses 2 pipes instead of one. And the downpipe also has a very different mounting flange. 05-06 uses a vf40 turbo and 07-09 uses a vf46 turbo. Gt and spec b use the same turbos. You didn't specify which year you have. The only bolt on option would be a vf52 which comes in the 08+ wrx but you would need to pair fuel upgrades such as injectors/fuel pump to make it worth the upgrade. If not stock fueling will be the bottleneck. Larger turbo options would need intercooler/hose upgrade/modification as they are not a direct bolt on. Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
  4. There are an abundance of posts of stripped threads coming out of new converters. Someone at the factory was clearly in a hurry. These are all from recalls. Either way the dealer has to "goodwill" the sensor and replace it free of charge. Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
  5. That is not your radiator we're looking at. That is your air conditioning condenser. It is wet because it is most likely has a crack of some sort and is leaking oil. Replacing it isn't too terrible but you need somebody to evacuate it first then recharge it. You will need 2 o-rings. If you're not sure it's the condenser, look at the radiator (which is on the inside) for wetness or do a pressure test as others have mentioned. I see way more condensers fail than radiators. Subieguys.com Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
  6. Forgot to add the gaskets and clips. But those should only be $60 at most. And yeah the exedy kit is $190 on Amazon last time I checked. I don't think the dealer uses the kits though which is why they upcharge even more. I have done a couple on 15+ wrx's and I take right around book time. Our cars are a different story. Rust is very time consuming. And we send the flywheels to the machine shop so we have to wait for that as well. Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
  7. Upper slide pins lacking grease will cause rattles. Worn brake pads will also cause rattling and it definitely goes away with braking. You can test this by sticking a flathead screwdriver between the lower pad tab and prying down on it. If the pad moves up more than a millimeter it can rattle at low speeds. Replacing pads and clips will fix that. Don't forget to grease whatever slides Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
  8. +1 Iag braided hose kit. Fairly inexpensive and makes connections easily accessible if you ever need to disconnect in the future. It feeds the vvt solenoid and the turbo. We have replaced a couple oem ones that crack. Subieguys.com Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
  9. I've had so much trouble with the clips that come with the napa calipers. They either won't stay in the brackets and pop out, or like you pointed out, they're bent at the wrong spot. The pads we use come with clips and so do the adaptive one premiums from napa. Those usually work great. Sidenote, the low pad indicators should go on the inner side and down. And the clips with the "legs" on the sides should also go on the lower part of the brackets Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
  10. Pressure plate 30210AA590 $174.95 Disk 30100AA851 $169.95 Release bearing 30502AA051 $54.95 Pilot bearing 806212020 $10.95 Flywheel 12342AA08B $284.95 Parts= $695.75 before tax Book time for replacement is 4.4 hours+.2 for flywheel and +.2 for pilot bearing 4.8 hours at $150 an hour= $720 Total is $1,415.75 pre tax. $1,482.99 at 4.75% tax Prices, part numbers and labor times are all off of Alldata. The quote they gave you is high. I'm sure they somehow upcharged the parts or labor to compensate for your coupon. Subtracting parts cost leaves labor at $313.38 an hour per their $2,200 quote at 4.8 hour Subieguys.com Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
  11. Try this. Have someone keep your RPM's at 4k. Keep all the caps on and make sure the coolant is full. Then open the reservoir and look for bubbles. In many cases, there will be no bubbles at idle or even at 2k or 3k RPM's. In the starting stages, the caps will be able to keep up with the gasses entering the cooling system. But eventually it will overheat because all the combustion gas will create air pockets. Many shops will call it head gaskets when it's not so people don't trust them. Something as simple as a leaky radiator cap can cause overheating. Also a pinhole in a coolant hose can cause loss of coolant that you can't see or in many cases smell. Buy a cooling system pressure tester. Pump it to 18 and see where/if it leaks. Subieguys.com
  12. Automotive Technician that works only on subies!! The more they break the more I make! Subieguys.com
  13. I'm leaning towards the valve body shifting slow. I'm at 85,xxx and just did a transmission service with a BG atf conditioner and it shifts the same as before. In my case 1st to second shifts painfully slow. Subieguys.com
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