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Blown Turbo Replacement: Drop in VF46 and take out VF40?


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Hi All,

 

Like many before me, I've blown the VF40 turbo on my 2005 LGT. I have tracked down a used VF46 Turbo (80,000 miles), and hope to drop it in to get the Subaru back on the road soon. I understand that these turbos are essentially interchangeable. At this point, I am looking for advice on the swap over process, and I am hoping you can help! Here are my main questions:

 

1 - My goal is to swap in the VF46 without doing a tune. From what I have read the max boost on these stock turbos is 13.5 PSI, therefore the swap over is low risk to a compression failure. Please let me know if I have missed something.

2 - Is 80,000 miles a concern for the VF46 turbo? What is the average lifespan (assuming maintained properly)

3 - Is swapping these turbos without a tune a feasible option?

4 - I have read on the forum that I should keep the VF40 actuator. I have also read that this may not be required. Can anyone comment on this?

5 - I have read on the forum that I should keep the VF40 boost pill. I have also read that with the VF40 boost pill, I don't need to keep the VF40 actuator. Some clarity here would be really appreciated.

6 - Any general tips for the swap out process? In particular, finicky parts, challenging steps, or particularly useful tools?

7 - If anyone has a good video guide, blog post, or forum post walking through this process they would recommend, I would really appreciate it.

 

Thanks to all for your insight, guidance, and perspective - it means a lot.

 

Best,

 

T

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Good questions.

 

I believe you keep the VF40 boost pill.

 

Does your year GT come with a catted up pipe in your country ?

 

Is so we recommend you replace that with a catless up pipe.

 

Remove the banjo filter from the banjo bolt on the back of the head.

 

Look though my click here link, you 'll see where I bolt the turbo to the up pipe. It's much easier to line up the "NEW" oil return hose, inlet to turbo and up pipe at the same time.

 

Look over the job and area in the car. make a list of what you need to remove, or drain. Have spare fluids ready to use.

 

Next thing we want to know is, how bad did your turbo "BLOW" ? Did it put metal into the oil system ? Most do !!!

 

 

80,000 miles is a lot, my vf40 went at 142,000 miles it was fairly well maintained.

 

Best bet is to send it off to JmP6689928, a member here and have him rebuild it. He's our go to guy for that. PM him and ask his advice.

 

Spray the old nuts and bolts with PB Blaster and give it time to work.

Use anti-seize compound on all threads of everything you put back on the car.

 

I like to use new nuts and bolts when going back together in these hot areas.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Correct me if I am wrong, but it seems like a couple month ago, your car was giving you P0011 and P0021 codes and the making a high pitched whine, which was likely the turbo. You drove it until recently when the turbo stopping making boost. This scenario means the turbo sent metal through the engine, the motor is toast and is not going to last very long. (days maybe a week)

 

It seems like you are also looking to sell your car. Don't be that guy that swaps in a turbo and passes the buck to the next owner.

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Correct me if I am wrong, but it seems like a couple month ago, your car was giving you P0011 and P0021 codes and the making a high pitched whine, which was likely the turbo. You drove it until recently when the turbo stopping making boost. This scenario means the turbo sent metal through the engine, the motor is toast and is not going to last very long. (days maybe a week)

 

It seems like you are also looking to sell your car. Don't be that guy that swaps in a turbo and passes the buck to the next owner.

 

Amen

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Yeah, your best bet is to contact JmP6889928 and have him rebuild yours.

 

Some say stay stock and stay happy.

 

Others know better...;)

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I know at least the boost pressures are different. My brother has an 05 legacy gt with the vf40 and it makes about 15.5 psi roughly (friend blew the engine so we are building it now) but on my 08 spec b which is basically the same engine minus some changes, the vf46 on that guy is making 18psi regularly and spiking at 19psi some days. Given I am pro tuned with a downpipe but that engine should handle the boost for sure, just not sure on the tuning aspect of it
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Just chiming in here: VF46 is a direct swap and you DO NEED the boost restrictor pill. My car went without it for awhile but making boost was difficult. My tuner found out for me and installed it and went on his merry way.
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Correct me if I am wrong, but it seems like a couple month ago, your car was giving you P0011 and P0021 codes and the making a high pitched whine, which was likely the turbo. You drove it until recently when the turbo stopping making boost. This scenario means the turbo sent metal through the engine, the motor is toast and is not going to last very long. (days maybe a week)

 

It seems like you are also looking to sell your car. Don't be that guy that swaps in a turbo and passes the buck to the next owner.

 

I appreciate where you're coming from, but let's get the facts straight (for the record). The turbo started making a rattle sound just last week (not a whine), and upon inspection it sounds like turbine blade damage on the hot side of the turbo. The P0011/P0021 code came on earlier this week, and I stopped driving it. I drained the oil, and there was no obvious metal or sediment in the oil, giving me hope that the damage was minimal. The car now seems to run better with the new oil, and I wonder if I drained out any sort of clog. The car without boost is lame, so I figure I put a second hand turbo in (for a reasonable price), and see if the car works again. At that point, I will either keep driving for an bit longer, or sell the car for a very reasonable price (I'm not trying to scam someone). There is no evidence at this point that I need to replace the full motor, nor is there any economics supporting that decision. I also don't think the car should be sent to the scrap yard.

 

Now, I also wish to respect the integrity of this forum. Therefore, I would appreciate your advice on what you would do in this same situation? Rather than jumping on my post with incorrect information and calling me "that guy", maybe you could actually help me out.

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This forum has so far (since I’ve decided to stop lurking and try being an active member) been fantastic. I don’t see much of the “you should have done a simple search first!” while berating people and making them feel unwelcome. I see a lot of people willing to help and allow the community to grow. With that being said, I can promise you that nobody here is accusing you of being “that guy” but trying to help point you in a direction. This is a super common problem with a super consistent cascading effect of wiping out the motor. Is this the case 100% of the time? No, but it is about 98% of the time, it’s one of the reasons Subaru’s get the reputation of being unreliable.

 

The thing about your oil and the turbo being wiped out. The shavings from the bearings in the turbo can be itty bitty and almost undetectable to the eye but can still contaminate the oil into being an abrasive. Throw that at a high mileage motor and it’s a recipe for disaster and sadly a common one. I promise, everyone here is trying to help.

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This forum has so far (since I’ve decided to stop lurking and try being an active member) been fantastic. I don’t see much of the “you should have done a simple search first!” while berating people and making them feel unwelcome. I see a lot of people willing to help and allow the community to grow. With that being said, I can promise you that nobody here is accusing you of being “that guy” but trying to help point you in a direction. This is a super common problem with a super consistent cascading effect of wiping out the motor. Is this the case 100% of the time? No, but it is about 98% of the time, it’s one of the reasons Subaru’s get the reputation of being unreliable.

 

The thing about your oil and the turbo being wiped out. The shavings from the bearings in the turbo can be itty bitty and almost undetectable to the eye but can still contaminate the oil into being an abrasive. Throw that at a high mileage motor and it’s a recipe for disaster and sadly a common one. I promise, everyone here is trying to help.

 

I appreciate the sentiment, I'm just saying while I appreciate the statistics, that doesn't corelate to actual advice for my particular situation. I need to make a decision on a car sitting in my driveway.

 

To summarize - if you were in my shoes, you would send the car to the scrap yard, or put in a brand new motor?

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If it was me I’d sell it as a project saying it needs a new turbo at a price that reflects. If I loved and wanted to keep the car, I’d do the investigative work to determine the extent of the damage and go from there. I’m against just about anything that isn’t a smashed rust bucket going to the scrap yard, it’s always useful to someone!
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If it was me I’d sell it as a project saying it needs a new turbo at a price that reflects. If I loved and wanted to keep the car, I’d do the investigative work to determine the extent of the damage and go from there. I’m against just about anything that isn’t a smashed rust bucket going to the scrap yard, it’s always useful to someone!

 

Appreciate the clarification. That's exactly what I plan to do. Sell as a project, or keep for my own project with additional diagnosis and a turbo!

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You need to remove the downpipe and see how much play is in the shaft on the turbo. Next would be to remove the turbo and see if there is damage to the compressor side.

 

I got lucky years ago and my compressor just kissed the housing. I replaced the turbo and was fine. I think may be one other member here got lucky like me, in the 16+ years I've been here.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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That’s the spirit! In my opinion these are a fantastic platform to learn on. They are pretty simple to work on and not super finicky. I’m the only one in my shop who will even touch them, but I find them pleasant, predictable and a quick buck to work on.
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I appreciate where you're coming from, but let's get the facts straight (for the record). The turbo started making a rattle sound just last week (not a whine), and upon inspection it sounds like turbine blade damage on the hot side of the turbo. The P0011/P0021 code came on earlier this week, and I stopped driving it. I drained the oil, and there was no obvious metal or sediment in the oil, giving me hope that the damage was minimal. The car now seems to run better with the new oil, and I wonder if I drained out any sort of clog. The car without boost is lame, so I figure I put a second hand turbo in (for a reasonable price), and see if the car works again. At that point, I will either keep driving for an bit longer, or sell the car for a very reasonable price (I'm not trying to scam someone). There is no evidence at this point that I need to replace the full motor, nor is there any economics supporting that decision. I also don't think the car should be sent to the scrap yard.

 

Forgive me if I interpreted your post incorrectly. I have been on this forum for over 10 years and I seen well over 100 posts of new owner buying 4th Gen Legacy owner and the engine/turbo failing short after. I suspect all almost of the prior owners knew they were passing the repair bill to the next owners.

 

Now, I also wish to respect the integrity of this forum. Therefore, I would appreciate your advice on what you would do in this same situation? Rather than jumping on my post with incorrect information and calling me "that guy", maybe you could actually help me out.

 

Your 1st post in the blown turbo thread, you mentioned that

 

I'm just looking to get an "in-kind" fix, so I can sell the car..

 

I asked you a few questions and mentioned about the turbo has likely sent metal through the engine. Given you 1st post, I assume that you were going to sell your car. My recommendation was sell it as is and let the next owner fix it.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I just blew out my stock turbo on my 2008 wrx which is going to cost around $1200 to replace. Should I just replace it with another stock turbo or are there any nice aftermarket ones for around the same price?

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+wrx+turbo&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&sxsrf=ALeKk00YNGDPMsyfs-gRFN5XSuM8GmDSUw:1597001025358&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiG28m27I7rAhVthXIEHagqBc4Q_AUoAXoECBMQAw&biw=1280&bih=881

Might be other options for for less money.

 

What are your plans for the car of HP goals ?

 

Did you hurt the engine ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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