Kvikken Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 I am trying to figure out an issue Im having, Ive been searching all over, gone through the wiring diagram, searched forums, now I hope someone here can help. The issue is on a 2006 Legacy sedan. With the ignition ON, light switch ON, theres no license plate lights, Ive tested the connectors in the trunk lid and connector right before the trunk lid, NO voltage on positive, 0 ohm to ground on negative (mind you tail light, brake light, turn light works, I state this as the only fuse I found through the wiring diagram for the license plate is shared between all these) with ignition ON, light switch ON, fog light switch ON theres no fog light in front or rear. Ive tested the front fog relay, it seems to be grounded through the switch, it has no signal power, but fused power going to the light, I hot wired the relay using the lights fused power which made the fog lights work, but still obviously not through the switch. when it comes to the rear fog light, it has a good ground, but no positive, I removed extension wire to the trailer hitch, but it did nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ the service manual may help. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kvikken Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ the service manual may help. Thank you, that was a new one, but Ive already found partials spread online with the same information, but the diagram is only just showing the front fog light diagram, and is a bit confusing as it has two different diagrams telling a different story. while if the left is correct, I can find a new source for a positive, and make it work again, bypassing the DRL module, however if its not correct, I fear giving the DRL module which according to other part of the wiring diagram might actually be the Body Intigrated Module rather than the DRL module. when it comes to the rear fog light, Ive only been able to find one diagram which also states Body Intigrated Module (BIM from now). It also refeer to a new fuse that I havent been able to control yet, need to wait untill day time, but if that fuse is not the issue, then the question is if I can simply bypass the BIM. When it comes to the rear license plate lights, I can always just give them a new positive through the tail light, but have yet to find their proper begynning, which has made me wonder if they aswell might go through the BIM, and all the issues might stem from that unit. I also came across a thread which stated that a switch inside the trailer hitch connector cuts off the fog light, but I see now reason for it to cut out the front fog or license plate light, I also did check the hitch connectors fog light and it had 0 V reading, I was unable to open the connector due to corrosion on the screws, but the micro switch moved perfectly (does not mean its not internally stuck though) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 I was unaware these cars had a rear fog light. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kvikken Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 several of the manuals Ive gone through today show a picture of the light switch stem with only one fog light position, so it seems that not every vehicle was equipt with a rear one, however this is, it is in the left tail light, while the right has a faux lamp there instead. this vehicle is failing its by annual country required check because of this, as far as I know, according to the law, I can simply remove the front lamp assembly and call it a day for the front fog lights, but the license plate and rear fog is required by law (atleast for vehicle equipt with those) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 One question, what country do you live in ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Must be edm with lhd so somewhere central Europe. Rear fogs are required in Europe on the driver side if I recall correctly. I believe there is a legacy forum out of the UK that might be more help. The US vehicles don't have rear fogs and have an independent drl module compared to yours which runs through the bim (pretty certain on all that but not positive). Usdm doesn't even have rear fog wiring. My understanding in usdm is it CANNOT bypass the bim. Maybe if you're adding a circuit while leaving the existing one you'll be OK. But I know that our vehicles have a lot of interconnected stuff between the bim and ecu. My source is that I'd really like to have left and right rear fogs (only run the left but like matching) but the cost isn't worth it. So I've spent a few days of research into it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kvikken Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 One question, what country do you live in ? That would be a small place called Norway. Must be edm with lhd so somewhere central Europe. Rear fogs are required in Europe on the driver side if I recall correctly. I believe there is a legacy forum out of the UK that might be more help. The US vehicles don't have rear fogs and have an independent drl module compared to yours which runs through the bim (pretty certain on all that but not positive). Usdm doesn't even have rear fog wiring. My understanding in usdm is it CANNOT bypass the bim. Maybe if you're adding a circuit while leaving the existing one you'll be OK. But I know that our vehicles have a lot of interconnected stuff between the bim and ecu. My source is that I'd really like to have left and right rear fogs (only run the left but like matching) but the cost isn't worth it. So I've spent a few days of research into it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thank you, as soon as my mind is awake again, Ill try them aswell. Hopefully I can use this knowledge to further the research, and get some more help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 There's a thread on here about wiring up the jdm rear fog to the US car. I think it's in the diy section. It has a lot of info in it that might not be pertinent to you but you also might be able to get info from it. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bax004 Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 Does everything run off the same switch? In the US, headlights, foglights and turn signals are all on the same stalk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 Does everything run off the same switch? In the US, headlights, foglights and turn signals are all on the same stalk. Yes but the rear fog is a two position switch of some sort on the stalk. At least in the jdm vehicles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bax004 Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 Yes but the rear fog is a two position switch of some sort on the stalk. At least in the jdm vehicles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Gotcha. Kvikken I'm thinking check the switch for any type of corrosion, and ohm the switch to make sure its making contact (or if you can find a cheap known good switch you could always replace to rule out the switch.) If everything there is good, then I'd start ohming out wires and connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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