Throw out bearing replacement. Stage 1 clutch in 2.5i?

[Herda2448]

Just putting this out there. Needless to say, I know that my NA 2.5i does not need a stage 1 clutch. But I have always thought that if I have to replace something anyway, might as well upgrade it.

I’m just looking for opinions of whether it is worth spending the extra couple hundred dollars for this upgrade on a NA 6mt since I’m going to be paying for labor anyway. I’d do it myself but just don’t have the shop tools to do it safely.

Also, will the LGT stage 1 kit fit my 2.5, and what other parts would have to come with it for this kind of upgrade.

What do you guys think?

 

 

 

 

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[FLlegacy]

If you plan on being hard on your clutch you would be better off upgrading the throwout bearing to the tsk3 kit and upgrading the clutch fork. The n/a engine isn't going to stress the clutch enough to warrant an upgraded pressure plate.

[Herda2448]

Thanks for the reply.

I’ll take the overall none response about a stage 1 in a 2.5 is that it’s not even worth talking about haha. I know it was a long shot.

I am more looking longevity and a better shifter experience. I have Perrin short shift adaptor, brass washer, and the Perrin shifter slide (I forgot what it’s called).

My car is paid off so I am looking to own it as long as it’s cost effective. So I hope to deal with another clutch replacement at 300k. I am at 143k. Like I said hope.

I will take your advice about the tsk3 kit. I didn’t find a specific part number for the 2.5. Do you know if my 6mt is the same 6mt in the LGT?

I am going to buy:

Rear main seal, exedy clutch kit, tsk3 sleeve and bearing kit, and flywheel (recommendations?).

What other parts and pieces do you think would be worth while to replace or upgrade right now since they are going to be in there?

 

 

 

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[coco26]

As for the flywheel, exedy is the OEM, and you can usually find a stock exedy branded flywheel for cheaper on aftermarket sites. RockAuto was cheapest when I got mine. Not sure of anything else I would do on a 2.5i.

[dgoodhue]

I didn’t find a specific part number for the 2.5. Do you know if my 6mt is the same 6mt in the LGT?

 

The GT's 6MT transmission is slightly different, 5th and 6th use different ratio's (taller on the GT). The cost was very similar, so I would guess there isn't much of difference.

 

The clutch is different between the GT and 2.5i. Having owned both, the GT clutch is stiffer. Personally I would just do the OEM clutch in a 2.5i. If you really want to upgrade it, use the GT clutch. I don't know if the aftermarket upgrade clutch is really going to last longer. Maybe use the TSK kit/throw out bearing.

[creep_nu]

any particular reason you want to replace the flywheel? a machine shop can resurface it for a fraction of the price...last time i had one done (dual mass) it was $40. Might also want to take a look at the uprated clutch fork and pivot ball while you're replacing stuff to really make it bullet proof.

 

I just got a stage 1 clutch dropped in my GT, and it's really probably overkill for the 2.5...it bites hard, and with 100 less HP, you're going to be bogging on starts unless you're really slipping the clutch, which...that's not ideal.

[dgoodhue]

As for the flywheel, exedy is the OEM, and you can usually find a stock exedy branded flywheel for cheaper on aftermarket site

 

I forgot reading about that.

 

One thing to mention is that clutch fork failure can happened especially with aftermarket clutches. The lighter factory 2.5i clutch may last longer with the factory clutch fork. If using the Exedy, you may went to upgrade to aftermarket clutch fork.

Edited November 14, 2019 by dgoodhue

[FLlegacy]

I forgot reading about that.

 

 

 

One thing to mention is that clutch fork failure can happened especially with aftermarket clutches. The lighter factory 2.5i clutch may last longer with the factory clutch fork. If using the Exedy, you may went to upgrade to aftermarket clutch.

Exedy is the OEM manufacturer for subaru clutches. I would just replace the flywheel for the cost and downtime. Yes the tsk3 should be the same for all the trims. If you get the OEM part numbers for the clutch and pressure plate you can probably find them much cheaper than the exedy kit. I recall I paid less than $275 for the PP and flywheel through an online retailer. And dont forget the pilot bearing.

 

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[Herda2448]

I really appreciate all your guys advice.

I was goin to order the exedy clutch kit, new clutch fork, and a tsk3 kit. But... the throw out bearing made it to complete failure.

So, due to down time restraints with shipping, repair, and my wife and I sharing a car, I ended up going with the OEM Exedy clutch kit. And buying some motul 300 gear oil, and also had the flywheel replaced.

I have the car back with all parts installed by a local shop.

As to be expected, the new clutch feels different. The friction point is higher, and it feels lighter in clutch pressure. But there is some vibration at around 1500 rpm in 3rd gear that wasn’t there with the old clutch. Also some slight shutter when slipping the clutch in 1st gear. Most vehicles I’ve owned have been manuals but I haven’t replaced a clutch. I just want to know if this is normal in a new clutch being broken in, and will it go away with time?

Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

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[FLlegacy]

I would say some chatter on a new clutch is to be expected. If you haven't done it yet look into the clutch damper delete that will help with clutch feel. As you wear in the clutch the friction point will relax slightly.

 

If that chatter and vibration are still there after around 1k miles I would take it back. But it would be good form to call the shop now and give them a heads up, so it isn't you just showing back up in a few weeks or months telling them something isn't right.