Difference between '95 springs and '98-'99 springs (front)

[helpfulNeighbor]

What is the difference in the actual coil for the front struts?

What changed with the coil from 1995 to 1998-1999?

The struts and mounts are the same and only the coils differ.

 

I found 1998-1999 assemblies but are told they are not compatible with the 1995 Legacy AWD wagon L trim. Yet I get no explanation.

 

I would love to know exactly what is different and would be gratefull to anyone that can point out the reason.

 

I would be great to throw those 1998-1999 assemblies on her car for her and get it back to her.

For the rest of the story:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2000-legacy-front-strut-assembly-work-1995-legacyi-280489.html

[noahrexion]

I read your story.

 

If you're trying to be a good neighbor and wanting to do this on the cheap please stick with OEM parts. Don't buy the ebay quick struts or anything like that. I don't know your budget but I always recommend against putting junk on a car to be "cheap": I've learned that lesson repeatedly throughout my life.

 

The 98-99 assemblies will work 100% on your ride. Is it possible the car will have a slight 1/2" lift? Definitely. Does it matter? Your call...

 

I see you broke a spring and that is likely a combo of fatigue/age and being in PA with rust. If you try to source used parts locally, definitely inspect them as much as possible - look for powder coating peeling from the coil springs themselves or any bare metal exposed on them to indicate possible failure. Better yet, buy used from ANY part of the country that doesn't have rust if you can afford the shipping.

 

Consider merging your threads into one as well so those trying to help/assist can easily follow your progress and all pertinent questions stay organized.

[helpfulNeighbor]

I read your story.

 

If you're trying to be a good neighbor and wanting to do this on the cheap please stick with OEM parts. Don't buy the ebay quick struts or anything like that. I don't know your budget but I always recommend against putting junk on a car to be "cheap": I've learned that lesson repeatedly throughout my life.

 

The 98-99 assemblies will work 100% on your ride. Is it possible the car will have a slight 1/2" lift? Definitely. Does it matter? Your call...

 

I see you broke a spring and that is likely a combo of fatigue/age and being in PA with rust. If you try to source used parts locally, definitely inspect them as much as possible - look for powder coating peeling from the coil springs themselves or any bare metal exposed on them to indicate possible failure. Better yet, buy used from ANY part of the country that doesn't have rust if you can afford the shipping.

 

Consider merging your threads into one as well so those trying to help/assist can easily follow your progress and all pertinent questions stay organized.

 

Thank you for reading my story and for your response noahrexion, appreciate it.

I understand your poinjt of view. While working on her vehicle and getting underneath it and such it is very well rusted. Yes, PA salt. I wouldn't be sure it would have anything left to drive in a couple to a few years. That is why I was considering the ebay solution.

 

As it is she's at $30 for a knuckle because the ABS tone wheel is shot on hers. And $30 for a strut assembly, both from the u-pull it yard. The used strut assembly is from a '96.

 

If this takes care of the no ABS (abnormal signal, good wires and sensor), then I will talk her into buying the new coil and renting the tool and reusing her strut.

 

She has paperwork from a national chain that says they did struts in 2014. I see a date on the strut of 2009 so they must have. Although the top hat (?) where the bearing is located isn't so great and obviously the coil broke.

 

Appreciate your more specific insight into those 1998-1999 coils and ride height differences as well as your life lesson.

[noahrexion]

Well kudos to you for helping out. Pulling older rusty cars apart is always a nail biter. Heres to hoping for good bearings and a smooth process ahead of you.

[helpfulNeighbor]

Well kudos to you for helping out. Pulling older rusty cars apart is always a nail biter. Heres to hoping for good bearings and a smooth process ahead of you.

 

Thank you. The bearing seemed good no real debris. Almost looked like it might have been redone. The seal was in remarkably good shape.

...I had been to the point of installing the axle back into the hub.

Major slow down in time.

I have it all lined up (splines) and part way in and it isnt't budging too well. I am really pulling (pushing) the axle back in with just a little bit of wiggle that is there. Very slow and very tough, should it be the case? I used a little bit of clean oil after the first time I tried and did get a a tiny bit further. The end of the axle is still about a 1/4" below the seat of where the axle nut rests.

 

It is lined up and not going in cock-eyed-- I made damn sure of that from the beginning.

 

Are there any tricks to help speed this up a little bit?

 

I was working on her car today. My neighbor is a very nice woman-here's what I mean: she actually pulled into the driveway today and apologized for her car being such a pain in the a$s to work on. I had to smile and let her know that it is no problem and that it is expected with all the rust and it being a '95.