FIXED
I finally was able to finish my neighbor's '95 legacy wagon.
I ended up using a '96 strut and a decent knuckle/hub from a '95. I guess I had waited someone else out long enough for them to send their vehicle to the local u-pull-it.
Now she has working ABS again and a not-broken coil spring.
Originally her ABS was acting up and then just refused to operate.
CHecking it all out and following the service manual to a 't', I could see that the signal was indeed 'abnormal'; it was very noisy and not quite too clearly sinusoidal.
That was interesting because I had to use a homemade cable to my MIC input on my netbook running Ubuntu linux with a software oscilloscope, ha ha ha, but it worked.
That led me through checking all the usual: wiring, sensor, bearings, etc. It was looking at the 'abs tone ring' that I could see it was rather gnarly from being eaten up by NEPA winters, and how [cough cough] the dealer forgot to put the shields back on after they serviced her vehicle.
I cleaned up the knuckle from the u-pull-it yard well. I used some homemade 'schmutz' or 'cool-aid' mixture to attack the rust that was there without having to take a file to anything (wanting to protect the trueness of that tone ring). Great results there.
TIPS:
Homemade 'schmutz'/'cool-aid'/'whatever-you-or-someone-else-called-it'--- literally 50/50 mixture of any typical transmission fluid and 100% acetone. That's it just mix and shake vigorously like salad dressing and use on rusted up, rusted together, or stuck bolts and tools. The idea goes that there is a conversion of the rust chemically and what-not. I can't remember whom I viewed the video of showing this but it is on the internet. It works better than PB blaster. Make sure to use brake cleaner to remove any excess when you are done from any areas where lubricant would be bad; like lug nut studs/lug nuts, rotor, brake pads (why would you use it there? ha ha ha), axle nut threads, etc.
Having trouble getting that axle back through the hub? Try carefully using a small block of wood or rubber right behind the CV boot where it attaches to the metal part (the rim) and tap with a 3lb sledge and then the other side, back and forth, until you can get the axle nut on the threads enough to just pull the axle back through.