schwab Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Check the intercooler to throttle body tube while you are in there. They eventually die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 Bit of an update: I installed the grimspeed 2x thickness gssket and I believe its sealing better. still getting the smell but im thinking it way be my turbo to downpipe gasket because that was reused during the turbo replacement. We will see, Im really not looking foward to taking off the rust heatsheild on the headers if that is the next step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 Also if anybody has knowledge in tuning and AF adjustment my other problem is in another thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/05-gt-way-too-rich-280541.html?p=5922007#post5922007 Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 (edited) The uppipe was custom made by some shop and the connections lined up, however, the pipe was slightly shorter than the original causing the turbo to be mounted at a slight upward angle. This made realigning the inlet, oil lines, and downpipe very difficult. Also, the uppipe required hex bolts which were very difficult to grip enough to torque down. With enough working of the components, I somehow got everything to fit. There are no leaks that I can see, but there is a strange plastic smell that been coming from that area so I will need to look into what that is. What???? I see nothing but wrong in this entire paragraph.... Hex Bolts?? Shorter Uppipe?? Turbo is bent at an angle?? This setup wreaks of disaster! You can get a cheap bootleg or used uppipe for like 50-75 bucks, there is no need to pay some guy to make a short pipe that bends something! What did you bend to get the turbo angle off? That turbo is connected to a downpipe, which is mounted to a bracket on the transmission, you don't just bend the turbo!! I don't see how you could have bent the main turbo bracket, so i am going to assume you might have removed it, if you have oh dear god just stop right there, and re access the situation! Edited October 4, 2019 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 I finally got to take the wheel off and check the connections. The uppipe to header gasket was leaking. I found the bolts to be pretty loose and I torqued them down, however, when both bolts were tightened I could see a small gap on both sides of the gasket. I believe the gasket is the thicker cobb gasket, but im not sure why it wouldnt be seated on both sides. It may be a defect in the uppipe or gasket. If my tightening doesn't work ill look at the OEM gasket or try loosening the brackets on the turbo to maybe move the uppipe closer to where it needs to be. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk STOP!! Get a real uppipe! Not some short pipe made by some random person, thats why your gaskets aren't working! Your turbo should not be bent on a stock setup. All your geometry sounds bad. Uppipes aren't adjustable, and neither are turbos. All the stress is going to the center of your turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 Bit of an update: I installed the grimspeed 2x thickness gssket and I believe its sealing better. still getting the smell but im thinking it way be my turbo to downpipe gasket because that was reused during the turbo replacement. We will see, Im really not looking foward to taking off the rust heatsheild on the headers if that is the next step. Why are you chasing this exhaust leak with your nose? Just do what I suggested and you’ll find all your leaks in 5 min. And you won’t get them tight if you don’t start from the header and work your way back. Tighten everything evenly. Little on one side then a little on the other until tight and torque to spec. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 is everyone overlooking how he said that his turbo was bent upwards ??? lol , thats a red flag right there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 Why are you chasing this exhaust leak with your nose? Just do what I suggested and you’ll find all your leaks in 5 min. And you won’t get them tight if you don’t start from the header and work your way back. Tighten everything evenly. Little on one side then a little on the other until tight and torque to spec. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI know it was leaking from there from there first two times I pulled the gaskets, you could see on the exactly the path it was leaking out from. Also the second time I tried to seat it you could see a very small gap between the gasket and uppipe. I will most likely be doing what you sugessted or just look to get another uppipe at this point. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 STOP!! Get a real uppipe! Not some short pipe made by some random person, thats why your gaskets aren't working! Your turbo should not be bent on a stock setup. All your geometry sounds bad. Uppipes aren't adjustable, and neither are turbos. All the stress is going to the center of your turbo.The turbo itself wasn't bent uppward, the uppipe angled everything slightly uppwards but no stress was put on the turbo. If anything I'm more concerned about ripping my inlet. The adjustments on the intercooler were reasonable with just shifting the bracket that holds everything. But again I will probably get another uppipe in the future if there's no way to seal it. If the 2x thickness gasket didnt work I'm tginking its not supposed to fit. Also it has hex bolts Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 Im still not sure about my downpipe, it looks like someone almost cut off the heat sheild so its not connected to any brackets Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 I've been looking at the uppipe made by Turboxs. Didnt know if anyone has experience with them but I figured since it has the flex joint like the stock one it would have an easier time sealing. https://www.importimageracing.com/products/turboxs-up-pipe-wrx-sti-legacy-gt-subaru-turbo-models-2002-2019?gclid=CjwKCAjw_uDsBRAMEiwAaFiHa8RY2_3HxlefLhxJAzjDDJCjLFu15sR3br9qY_6qDk_l6HOgkodpjRoCFwwQAvD_BwE Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 An update, I swapped out the uppipe with the OEM 2008 catless to make everyone happy and hopefully make everything seal better. I have found, this whole thing may just have been caused by the cheap boost gauge I need to swap out. The problem, or at least what I perceived as the problem was my boost gauge only read 10 psi when I was supposed to be reaching the 13.5. However, after swapping everything out and various attempts to seal the exhaust, I took a closer look at my logs. While there is a delay in spool most likely caused by remaining exhaust leaks, it does appear to get fairly close to the target. So this whole thread may have been avoided if I took a closer look at the data instead of the sketchy boost gauge. Only problem is the slow spool.romraiderlog_20200101_130048.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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