59ctd Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 Where is the ebrake on/off detector switch and the associated wiring harness? I seem to have a random short and it is flashing the warning on the dash to put the ebrake handle down. This is my 09 LGT sedan. This started about a month ago one day on the way home the display warning stayed on the entire drive home (~30 mins). Yesterday on the way home it would flash for a second or two at random intervals minutes apart. This AM on the way to work it also started to flash and at one time it was going on & off several times per second. I noticed this morning that when the warning display came on the battery warning light also illuminated. Here is a picture of the ebrake warning display I am describing. To get this picture safely I pulled up on the ebrake just a bit and drove very slowly in my cul-de-sac where there was nobody else around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 The switch is located on the E-brake assembly, so you'll have to pull the center console apart. However, if the charging system light is also coming on, check that first. A bad/going bad alternator can cause a lot of electrical things to get wonky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted May 31, 2019 Author Share Posted May 31, 2019 The switch is located on the E-brake assembly, so you'll have to pull the center console apart. However, if the charging system light is also coming on, check that first. A bad/going bad alternator can cause a lot of electrical things to get wonky. Thanks. I figured the switch was in the center console. The battery light went on and off at exactly the same time as the brake light and the ebrake warning display so they are somehow triggered by the same event. I put a new (rebuilt) alternator in about two months ago so I do not think that is the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 You can pop up the e-brake cover right there by next to your seat and look inside. You can see how things look by going to a dealerships "parts dept. link and look up that handle etc. I did replace the garnish over the handle last Fall. It's easy to pop up. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 Thanks. I figured the switch was in the center console. The battery light went on and off at exactly the same time as the brake light and the ebrake warning display so they are somehow triggered by the same event. I put a new (rebuilt) alternator in about two months ago so I do not think that is the issue. New does not mean it's good. Hook up a multimeter and read voltage while you are experiencing the issue. Excessive ripple can wreak havoc on electrical components. What brand reman alt did you install? New alt 2 months ago, 1 month ago this issue starts and the car just recently started lighting up the charging system light at the same time as the e-brake light. I'm not sending you on a wild goose chase, I'm trying to save you from pulling your center console apart for no reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 New does not mean it's good. Hook up a multimeter and read voltage while you are experiencing the issue. Excessive ripple can wreak havoc on electrical components. What brand reman alt did you install? New alt 2 months ago, 1 month ago this issue starts and the car just recently started lighting up the charging system light at the same time as the e-brake light. I'm not sending you on a wild goose chase, I'm trying to save you from pulling your center console apart for no reason. Voltage at the alternator reads ~14.7v whenever the light has come on. Replacement is a reman unit from the local oReilly Auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 Have you had the battery checked? The battery is what the car runs on-the alternator is what fills the battery. What about the battery cables and grounds? You can have 2579685 grounds and it won't hurt anything but if you don't have at least 1 solid ground, everything electrical can screw up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 Have you had the battery checked? The battery is what the car runs on-the alternator is what fills the battery. What about the battery cables and grounds? You can have 2579685 grounds and it won't hurt anything but if you don't have at least 1 solid ground, everything electrical can screw up. Battery is a new Interstate in December of 2018 so it is pretty new. Battery posts and terminals are freshly cleaned and are solid. I looked at the parking brake switch by pulling the ebrake cover off. It is visible but not too accessible. The single screw holding it on can probably be reached with an angle phillips but the mechanism looks so simplistic (on ebay pics) that I do not see how it might fail unless the electrical connector somehow is shorting to ground. I will check the ground cables next/today. I also ordered a simple oscilloscope today to check out the voltage output from the new alternator based on @08SpecB_DE recommendation. I sold my last old school oscilloscope about a year ago because it was never used and I never thought I'd use it again. New and simple ones are very cheaply priced. Thanks guys for the good ideas on what to check on this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 How’s the brake fluid level look? I know it’s displaying a pic of the ebrake but I wouldn’t be surprised to see subaru cut a corner since the brake warning light is to let you know of a few different issues that could be present. One of which is low fluid level. Also if you can unplug the wire going to the ebrake switch and it clears it would mean a problem with the switch as it should light the warning when the switch grounds the wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 How’s the brake fluid level look? I know it’s displaying a pic of the ebrake but I wouldn’t be surprised to see subaru cut a corner since the brake warning light is to let you know of a few different issues that could be present. One of which is low fluid level. Also if you can unplug the wire going to the ebrake switch and it clears it would mean a problem with the switch as it should light the warning when the switch grounds the wire. Yep, I read that in the FSM this morning. The fluid low and parking brake switch are in parallel and do effectively the same thing with the dash light. Brake fluid is new ~3 months old and is fully topped off. I just disconnected the plug from the MC reservoir so I guess I will see if that makes a diff or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 ...What about the battery cables and grounds? You can have 2579685 grounds and it won't hurt anything but if you don't have at least 1 solid ground, everything electrical can screw up. Where are the ground cables that might need checking? I see one behind the fusebox in the engine bay and another down on the bottom of the engine/frame under the battery. Any others to check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 Should be a cable from each head/valve cover to the frame rail on that side. Also, wiggle the cables on both ends to make sure they are not corroded at the connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 2, 2019 Author Share Posted June 2, 2019 So far we've ruled out the brake master cylinder low sensor. Had it disconnected when son an I went to Menards just now. The parking brake switch seems to be alright when in park with engine running and lights off pulling up down on the parking brake makes the daytime running lights go on and off like they should. I am thinking more towards a funky alternator output now. Got a cheap o-scope arriving today. Where is the place to take readings on a good vs bad ripple/uneven signal from the alternator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 Weird how the switches I'm seeing on ebay are mostly $20-$30... MSRP on the oem switch is $10, I'd give that a try even though it seems fine.. Maybe the spring is weak and it's bouncing up and down while driving. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2009_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/SWITCH-ASSEMBLY-HAND-BRAKE---------------20D/49294031/83321AA000.html Aftermarket options too ($6.52, $13.38), assuming the oem part number I found is correct. https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=83321AA000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 Well, this morning the batt light and ebrake warning lights stayed on solid all the way to work. Used my voltmeter and it is at 12.0 volts so I think the alternator I replaced ~2 months ago is not working anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 Well, I found where the issue with the charging is. The cable end on the alternator output is really fried. Burned a good chunk of the red protective cap. I can't recall if the red end came with the alternator or not. I am lucky that it did not start a fire. Yes, the cable nut was securely tightened when we put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 (edited) Based on the alternator pics on website for DBElectrical it appears the red plastic piece is supposed to come off with the cable end. It is trashed and melted onto the alternator post. Unsure where I might source another red plastic cover. Edited June 3, 2019 by 59ctd typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 The red plastic cover is there just to avoid accidental shorting if you are with tools in that area. Just get any suitable rubber boot or something to cover it with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 It's odd that it fried the wiring that bad and the nut was tight. There could be an underlying issue. Once you get the wiring and alternator fixed, keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't start to melt again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 It's odd that it fried the wiring that bad and the nut was tight. There could be an underlying issue. Once you get the wiring and alternator fixed, keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't start to melt again. The connector post seems to wiggle back and forth a bit. I will tear it down once I get this out and the new one installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 Seems like a good idea. I was otherwise considering that the crimping was bad, I have experienced that on a starter once - randomly not starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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