whitexc Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Just a quick google search for it......I take no responsibility for it being good or bad! https://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Miscellaneous/FreeSSM.shtml Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted April 15, 2019 Author Share Posted April 15, 2019 Cable arrived and doesn't work so that's good. Opened it up and it has the wrong IC. Back to the drawing board... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 Did you buy the cable I linked above? Works for me....on a regular basis at this point unfortunately. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted April 15, 2019 Author Share Posted April 15, 2019 It was not the cable you linked. I may have chosen the wrong one in error through Amazon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted April 24, 2019 Author Share Posted April 24, 2019 Who is using Win10 with their cables? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 Win 10 Home here on a Lenovo. Works fine. Still trying to get the cable working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted April 24, 2019 Author Share Posted April 24, 2019 The first cable was an error on my part. The second cable also does not work.......and also has the CH320(?) IC. This particular cable was supposed to be good based on forum confirmation. Regardless, I've gone ahead and ordered a 3rd cable that specifies that it has the FT232BL chip that seems so elusive. I tried to get an old XP laptop going but that was proving to be a distraction. Other than that, I've gone the route of reassigning COM as well as manually installing drivers. I believe it simply comes down to the wrong IC in this 2nd cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 Ugh, sorry you are having such a hard time. The cable portion and even FreeSSM was very easy for me, for which I m quite thankful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 I'm half thinking the vendor of the 2nd cable may have once supplied it with the 232 IC but something must have changed. There were forum posts confirming it was the correct cable as well as some reviews stating that it worked with FreeSSM....neither of which are currently true as far as I can tell. No biggie. Just have to wait for another cable to arrive and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 (edited) Eureka! 3rd cable arrived and appears to be all good. I reset Mem and Mem2 so next up is performing the reprogram steps Mr Waters posted. Amazon link to cable EDIT: WOW! The 2-3 shift is so much better now. Will put some miles on and report back. Edited May 6, 2019 by bergs fix hyperlink Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Great, glad to hear it smoothed out for yah. This is exactly how mine is, but it reverts back to the slide/bang after a bit. Knowing it gets better with a reset is reassuring that the issue is sensor/electrical based. Maybe I will be replacing that speed sensor at some point. Keep us posted on how is works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted May 7, 2019 Author Share Posted May 7, 2019 Seems okay so far. I performed the shift calibration procedure 3 times just because. BTW, the description for the cable I linked states it does not work with Win10......it certainly does. I plugged in the cable, let the drivers install then searched the internet for updated drivers through Device Manager. Restarted my laptop, assigned comms through FreeSSM then proceeded to use the software as intended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 I need to do this on my '13. I've seen other people saying to (after ATF warm) WOT and row through the gears. Anyone actually do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 I need to do this on my '13. I've seen other people saying to (after ATF warm) WOT and row through the gears. Anyone actually do this?WOT and row through the gears? I am not looking for ticket(s) so just doing the reset and alternating between manual mode and full auto works for me. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted May 27, 2019 Author Share Posted May 27, 2019 Well, I'm going to venture a guess that I'm officially in the "replace the turbine sensor" club even though I don't have TCU codes. After reset, things seemed to be okay but as the miles wore on the issue slowly came back....which kinda stinks because I have a lot of broken things at the moment. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 (edited) Yup, join the club. I am taking the 2 minutes it takes to do the reset until it gets real bad or I have extra time and money to dive into it. The latter won't happen any time soon. My car is usually good for a few weeks. How long did yours go before it started getting funky? Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Edited May 27, 2019 by whitexc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted May 28, 2019 Author Share Posted May 28, 2019 I didn't pay much attention to how long before it came back but it wasn't long...a few days maybe. It's still better than prior to the reset but still not great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share Posted June 7, 2019 Can anyone help with which specific sensor could be the cause? Turbine 2 sensor is what I've been looking into however I am seeing conflicting information with regards to exact part number for the sensor along with comments stating this is a $350 wire harness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 (edited) My understanding is that if you don't want to replace the entire expensive harness then your option is find a generic replacement automotive hall effect sensor and cut 2 wires of the harness and solder your new sensor in place of the old one. There is a guide out there with a guy selling the part he used. https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/499945-repair-p1710-hard-shifts-5eat.html#/topics/499945 Would not be an easy job, you'd need to remove the valve body to get access to the sensor. Edited June 8, 2019 by moral hazard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted June 10, 2019 Author Share Posted June 10, 2019 Thank you for posting. Yes, I did see that thread. Found the thread below as well...has some .pdf's and other information. https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/188914-anyone-experienced-failed-turbine-2-signal-5eat.html Not too worried about splicing if it must go that way however if I end up removing the valve body, I'm half-toying around with the idea of sending in out to Level 10 Just not sure which is the best decision here. Added info for this thread: This was the result of my Google search: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1LENP_enUS832US839&ei=MbX9XLiXIPCE_QbvmbfoCA&q=subaru+5eat+turbine+speed+sensor+2&oq=subaru+5eat+tu&gs_l=psy-ab.1.1.0l2j0i22i30l2.28987.37256..39264...6.0..0.226.1498.15j2j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i67j0i131j0i10j0i10i30j0i5i10i30.nFAvqPivPMk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted July 29, 2019 Author Share Posted July 29, 2019 Short update: Went to my trusted Subaru dealer to see if a reflash of the TCU would help things. Turns out my TCU is up to date. Next step will be to solder in a new sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 Ok, I need to address a couple things before I dive back into this... Most of the issue, as far as shift bang is concerned, is related to the 5-4 downshift. The upshift from 2-3 is also slow. I do get readback values on the Turbine 2 sensor, as seen by FreeSSM, however I do not know how the readback is suppose to be acting or what is considered an acceptable value or range. Still no codes in the TCU and the issue is consistently with the 5-4 shift and 2-3 slow shift. Fluid appears and smells fine so I am wondering if I just go for a fluid exchange or dump the fluid, drop the valve body and simply replace the sensor then refill with new fluid. I am open to advice or guidance on my next steps as I will not be able to install power mods until the transmission has been sorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 So, an interesting update on this issue... The trans eventually developed a really hard 2-3 shift bang, even at light throttle. The 5-4 shift was also pretty bad. Still no codes. Yesterday morning I decided to reset Memory2 while the car was stone cold (~45°F). After reset, I started the engine, allowed it to warm up until the blue light went out, hopped in, selected S# and started driving in D. I did a several light spirited pulls and noticed the shifting was improved by a lot. I continued to drive in this manner for the next several minutes and, to my amazement, noticed the shifting eventually seemed completely normal. I've been driving exclusively in S# and have logged about 300 miles since this most recent Mem2 reset. The gear changes have been all been excellent up to this point. Still have to check out how the paddle shifting acts, as well as what the I and S modes do, however I am astounded that this has improved enough to be considered completely normal! Think I'm going to hold off with the Turbine 2 sensor install for now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Correct me if I'm wrong, but Subaru doesn't sell the genuine sensor. Only option is a generic sensor and solder it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 I'm not sure how to differentiate between genuine and generic sensors but otherwise, yes, the sensor is not available on its own from Subaru. It will come as part of a harness from the factory. I ordered a sensor and filter combo a while ago from forum member P1710 and I was in the process of arranging a car lift with a neighbor prior to performing this most recent reset. Here are the forum links that have the ebay links to P1710's eBay. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5933259&postcount=6 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5987905&postcount=7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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