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New year, new build...v.3.0...R?


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Keep it at around 550 -600 hp. Dont make it a dyno queen. Maximum area under the curve.

 

It will be whatever I want it to be. 600 whp is the minimum I want to make and I'm sure it will make it easily. 700+ is the real goal. Even with a 67mm turbo it's still far more responsive than an EJ with a 62mm. The main reason I wanted a bigger engine was to have more peak power AND more power under the curve.

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So, you will definitely surpass supergramps power. IIRC, they were able to reach an 11.99 or 11.89s at the 1/4 mile on what, 5-8 psi of boost? I wonder what time you'll reach if you ever do a 1/4 mile run.

 

 

 

Next time I get to Utah, I want to get a ride in this thing!

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So, you will definitely surpass supergramps power. IIRC, they were able to reach an 11.99 or 11.89s at the 1/4 mile on what, 5-8 psi of boost? I wonder what time you'll reach if you ever do a 1/4 mile run.

 

 

 

Next time I get to Utah, I want to get a ride in this thing!

 

If our drag strip were still open I would expect it to go tens. I'm planning on around 20 psi on pump and around 30-35 with meth injection.

 

You can have a ride any time. It is so snappy off boost and just wants to rev. It's a lot of fun to drive. This engine and trans are a great match.

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One of the issues with this swap is the tach doesn't read right. I thought the signal might be adjustable with the Hydra, but it isn't. I had to buy a tach signal interface to get the tach to read properly.

 

I've learned a bit more about the Hydra. Everything on the car functions (ABS, VDC, A/C, Nav, airbags, TPMS, etc.) except the cruise control and immobilizer. Since the immobilizer is bypassed the security light in the gauge cluster is on. I just popped the LED out of the gauge cluster and it's no longer a problem. :icon_bigg

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Weird the tacho didn't work right. You'd think that is something that comes up on almost every build. No problems with the Emtron.

 

Mines the same with no cruise and the immobilizer light on. Didn't bother removing it, got used to seeing it after a few weeks.

The aftermarket immobilizer still does what is needed so the factory one isn't really required anyway.

2000 Legacy B4 RSK - SOLD

2006 Legacy BP5 GT Spec B wagon - Garage Thread

2011 VW T5 van 2.0L of turbo diesel awesomeness

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Yeah the tach would read too high. At 4k it showed 6k. It's designed for a 4 cylinder signal and now is getting a 6 cylinder signal. Thought that would be something the Hydra could handle, but no problem really. It's only money.

 

I had never heard of the emtron until now. Looks like a really nice piece hardware.

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Ohh yea of course, forgot about the issue with more cylinders. Link ECU’s used to have the same issue.

 

Gaining quite a bit of a following down on this side of the world. Mine was their ’test’ vehicle to see if the GR/GV plugin ECU would work on a Legacy.

2000 Legacy B4 RSK - SOLD

2006 Legacy BP5 GT Spec B wagon - Garage Thread

2011 VW T5 van 2.0L of turbo diesel awesomeness

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Got the car cleaned up and took some outside pics. Also took it and got it weighed. With me (240 lbs) and a a full tank of gas it weighs 3720 lbs.

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Edited by BrandonspecB
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  • 2 weeks later...

Got about 1000 miles on the engine and everything is running smooth.

 

Currently at 6 psi with a really soft tune. I've been figuring out what is just engine noise from the knock sensor and what is actual knock. I think I've got it nailed down and am going to start turning the boost up slowly.

 

Couple of things that don't work with the Hydra: Fuel mileage computer and the clock in the navigation screen. Why didn't Subaru make that clock manually adjustable? Drives me crazy.

 

The Hydra is really good though. The idle control is rock solid and easy to use. The fuel control is amazing. Full time closed loop with long term trims for every cell in the VE table. I get things dialed in in open loop and then turn on closed loop and LTTs and the AFR rarely ever varies from target.

 

Knock detection is great as well. It will highlight cells in the ignition timing map that detected knock above the knock threshold you set. It also will tell you which cylinder knocked. You don't even need to datalog to get this info; the Hydra is always monitoring and recording this information. Just connect with your laptop and you can see the learned trims and knock detection at anytime. Another thing I like is that the fuel trims don't reset after a reflash. You can manually reset them if you want.

 

The Hydra's biggest weakness is its datalogging. You can only datalog 8 things at once. It's fast logging, but I really would like to log more things, especially while I'm learning this engine and software.

 

There's also no way to pick a spot in the datalog and have it show you which cell you are in. I have to figure everything out manually, write it down, open the map up that I want to change, and then make changes.

 

Other than that I really like it. It's a step up above using OEM ECUs to tune. I hope that they improve the logging in a future update.

 

With that said here's an in car vid of a 3rd gear romp to 7500. I get on it a little at the beginning and just as the turbo starts spooling a UHP Trooper comes around a bend and goes right past me. :spin:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10OqZqjrHws

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There are two knock sensors, but you don't need multiple to figure out which cylinder is knocking. Knock can only happen within a pretty narrow range of crank angle; after spark fires towards the top of the compression stroke into the top of the power stroke. Only one cylinder can be in that range at a time. The Hydra knows which cylinder is in that range when knock is detected.
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8 psi now. Going up daily.

 

Seems the sweet spot for the AVLS activation is 4000 RPMs. Any lower and I feel a power reduction when it kicks on and any higher and I feel a power increase. At 4000 I can't feel it turn on at all.

 

Another in car vid with the windows down. 2nd-4th gear shifting at 7500.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6XLIsdVzkk

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Got to work finishing the rest of the exhaust. 3.5" with a resonator then splits into 2.5" to the mufflers.

 

I'm going to keep the Invidia mufflers because I like how they look. The Invidia Y is 2 3/8" and slips into the 2.5" inlet of the muffler. I cut the 2 3/8" pipe out and will weld a 2.5" stub and v-band to the muffler inlet.

 

Should be finished tomorrow.

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