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New year, new build...v.3.0...R?


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Given this will be boosted 3>1 opposed to log pipe will not net much either. Just as larger valves or porting would not add much performance benefit either.

Stellar build. Looking forward to your progress.

 

I appreciate your interest in my build and compliments, but I have to disagree. Boosted engines benefit quite a bit from valve and port work. Anything that makes power on an NA engine will make power on a boosted engine and let you make that power at lower pressure.

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42414744&postcount=3

 

As far as log vs tubular, what I've seen is that logs usually spool faster due to less internal volume and tubular make top end power due to better flow.

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I appreciate your interest in my build and compliments, but I have to disagree. Boosted engines benefit quite a bit from valve and port work. Anything that makes power on an NA engine will make power on a boosted engine and let you make that power at lower pressure.

 

 

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42414744&postcount=3

 

 

 

As far as log vs tubular, what I've seen is that logs usually spool faster due to less internal volume and tubular make top end power due to better flow.

To give an example. Way back when my Daytona Shelby was stock, I did what is considered a stock rebuild. Between the balance shaft removal, gasket matching and blending, and installing the factory intercooler w/corresponding turbo.. I gained roughly 35hp and about 65lb/ft of torque.

 

The Chrysler 2.5 is know to be a torque beast.. that was still the factory non-intercooled calibration. Porting on a boosted engine works wonders!

 

Scotty

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Sorry sometimes what is in my head isn't being conveyed through the keyboard.

There are gains for sure... But at what cost... Is the gain with the cost???

Not always.

 

Like the years I spent modifying/R&D the Kawasaki 650 Jet Ski motor.

In it's last form I had built a dual 42mm Keihin carb setup from two single carbs.... Cool, It worked... But it turned the power band into an on/off switch.

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I agree with that. There usually is a trade off somewhere. When I put cams in my EJ it picked up a lot of top end power, but lost a lot down low. It was worth it for me since I like drag racing. Low end power doesn't mean much when you're launching at 6500 and spinning the engine to 8000.
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More goodies showed up.

 

EMS is plug and play with leads for the additional cylinders and variable lift solenoids.

 

Started measuring the rod bearing clearances and was coming up with literally 0 clearance. Either the rod is too tight or the bearing is too thick. The rods measure at 2.165 and King's info says the big end diameter is 2.1673. I didn't have a stock rod to measure and compare, so whether the rod is small or the bearing thick is up in the air at this point. Either way, the machine shop will get it straightened out.

 

Edit: The stock rods measure 2.165 which means King's bearing thickness is off because they are basing it off an incorrect big end diameter.

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Edited by BrandonspecB
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  • 4 weeks later...

Brandon would you mind sharing more info about the Hydra setup. For example, is it plug and play? Does it come with a base map? Will the Legacy retain all OEM functions? (Speedometer, etc)

 

Also when it comes to smog how will you handle the OBD2 portion?

 

Thanks

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Brandon would you mind sharing more info about the Hydra setup. For example, is it plug and play? Does it come with a base map? Will the Legacy retain all OEM functions? (Speedometer, etc)

 

Also when it comes to smog how will you handle the OBD2 portion?

 

Thanks

 

It is plug and play. It even uses the factory EJ engine harness. Some of the sensors aren't in the same place as the EJ, so I'm going to have to lengthen some wires. They included all the leads for the additional coils, injectors, and variable lift solenoids. All I have to do is run the wires, cut the connectors off the EZ30 harness and connect them to the leads and it's good to go. You can see in the picture the adapter harness and the wires coiled up are the additional leads.

 

It does come with a base map for your particular setup. Phil at Element Tuning got all the info about my setup and the map was programmed in the Hydra when I got it.

 

The factory gauge cluster works with the Hydra. The ABS, VDC, Nav, A/C all work. I'm not 100% certain if the cruise control works.

 

I'll try to do a good job documenting all the wiring changes and any electrical issues that come up for this swap.

 

As far as emissions, I'll be moving to a non emissions county in a couple months. While I was researching stand alones I remember reading some things about piggybacking the factory ECU with a jumper harness just so it can be connected to via the ODB2 port. Then you'd force pass the readiness monitors with a Tactrix cable and Ecuflash and remove all the codes to get it to pass. At least that's how I think it would work. You'd still have to get someone to turn a blind eye on the visual.

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Edited by BrandonspecB
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Did a few more things in anticipation of the engine getting done. I noticed that the naturally aspirated car's subframe and sway bar are different to accommodate the exhaust heading straight back. I'll be copying the exhaust routing that Mighty Car Mods did on their turbo EZ36 "supergramps" and so I decided to swap in an NA subframe and sway bar.

 

After getting the turbo subframe out it doesn't appear that it would cause too many clearance issues, but the sway bar and subframe brace definitely will.

 

The NA subframe brace is three separate pieces instead of one big piece. I'll just cut the turbo brace into three pieces rather than buy the NA braces.

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I have a Tribeca sway bar on my 3.0R. I can confirm that it fits.

 

How do you like it? I read that it's 25mm. I had a 22mm front and 20mm rear Whiteline bars and really liked that combo. I'm not much of a corner carver though, so I probably won't notice much difference with the 25mm bar (except the price.)

 

Update: Still waiting on the machine shop. On Friday they will have had my stuff for 2 months.

 

Lots of parts are showing up to make fuel lines and exhaust and other things. I bought some new fuel rail dampers because I just couldn't put the old, corroded ones on the shiny fuel rails. I think the only things I still need to buy are the fittings and lines for the turbo feed and drain. I need the engine to see where all that is going to go.

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Got to installing the NA sway bar and modifying the front subframe brace.

 

I've got a pile of parts to fab exhaust, intake, and charge pipes. And there's more stuff on the way. I think I'll be getting something like 15 packages delivered on Tuesday.

 

Metric Motors said the engine should be done on Wednesday. I'm not getting my hopes up too much though. In my experience working with machine shops you always need to add a week or two to any time frame they give you :).

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  • 2 weeks later...

I wish I had an engine finished update, but it's still at the machine shop. They were installing the pistons on the rods and found that the rods are too wide for the pistons. Now I'm waiting for the small end on the rods to be machined thinner and balanced.

 

Here are some things I've learned about aftermarket EZ30 pistons, rods, and bearings. Hopefully this will help somebody else with their build in the future.

 

The Pauter rods are built exactly to factory spec. The Outfront pistons (manufactured by CP) are built to fit their H-beam rods (unknown manufacturer.) The Outfront rods use EJ25 rod bearings. I think they do this because there are more bearing options available for the EJ and possibly when they had the rods manufactured there weren't any aftermarket bearings available. King makes their rod bearings for an incorrect big end size. I don't know why they do this. I had to have my Pauter rods opened up .002 so the King bearings would fit. They say their STD bearing is made for a 2.1673 big end bore. The factory spec is 2.165. I haven't had any problems with the King main bearings.

 

If I were to do this again I would get the Outfront pistons and rods and use King EJ rod bearings and King EZ main bearings. Supertech makes pistons for the EZ that would fit the Pauter rods without modification, but they don't make them over sized. They are 8.5:1 compression and made of 4032 alloy. The Outfront pistons are 9.7:1 and made of 2618. They come in .010, .020, and .030 over sized. If you have to bore the cylinders then you have no choice but to use the Outfront pistons.

 

With that said here are some pics! I'm just doing little things that need to be done.

 

Got the front cover cleaned up and painted. Plugged some coolant ports I won't be using and added a fitting for an oil pressure sender in the upper oil pan.

 

Got a bung welded in the lower oil pan for an oil temp sensor and one welded under the oil fill neck for a crankcase pressure sensor. I'm also going to fit a pressure sensor to the cooling system and the uppipe. I'm really excited to take advantage of the Hydra's extra inputs. Coolant pressure will let me setup a fail safe for a head gasket failure. Crankcase pressure will let me setup a fail safe for a piston or ring failure. The moment pressure reaches a higher than normal level I can have the Hydra cut power far faster than I ever could.

 

I was going to use a single wastegate in the uppipe, but I don't think I'll have much room with both the uppipe and downpipe coming through on the same side of the subframe. It's going to be tight in there. I decided to use two TiAL MVSs and put one just after the collector of each header. There will be much more room down there for them.

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Porn you shall have...

 

I'm planning on having it completely assembled on Thursday. Drop it in on Friday and start building exhaust over the weekend.

 

If things go well this thing could be running in a couple weeks.

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Here are pics from tonight's progress.

 

Got the upper and lower oil pans on as well as the rear timing cover. This is where the EZ is drastically different. Everything up to this point was pretty much the same as the EJ.

 

There are a lot of fasteners, o-rings, and silicone needed to keep this engine sealed up. I spent a solid 2 hours tonight just organizing bolts. It didn't help that the Subaru service manual had some of the fasteners for the rear timing cover mislabeled. I thought I was going to lose my mind trying to find bolts that didn't exist.

 

The only aftermarket motor mounts for this engine come from Kein.

 

I set the front cover and intake manifold on just see what a finished product will look like. All I need to do now is get the timing chains and guides on and attach the front cover. That will happen tomorrow. Engine will go in Friday.

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Edited by BrandonspecB
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