Zootal Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 On a totally different topic... 1994 Subaru Legacy FWD 4 dr sedan. 230,000 miles or so. There is an oil leak from the rear of the engine. I understand there is a plate there that is/may be plastic, and fixing the leak is a simple matter or remove, clean, replace. The downside is you have to pull the engine to get to it. So I have a few weeks off of work coming up and am thinking of doing exactly that. It looks like this engine should come out with minimal effort - pull the axles, remove radiator, unhook stuff, unbolt mounts, and pull it out. The tranny shifts a bit hard, but the fluid is clean and I change it regularly. It whines all the time, but it's done that for years, and it's not getting worse. I'm not sure if the engine is burning oil or just leaking, but I go through a quart every month or so. Any words of advice before I tackle this job? Things to watch out for, things I should do while I have it out? We want to get just one or two more years out of the car, at which point we will be in position to retire it if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 I wouldn't pull the axles. Undo the pitching stop above the bellhousing, and the front trans mounts and use a jack to raise the trans up about 2.5 inches. The axles will flex that far, and it makes the engine part soo much easier with the height and angle. Might as well do the rear main seal while you are in there, and be ready to do clutch/throwout/pilot. Get the metal oil separator cover for your main objective, not another plastic one. You can lay aside AC so you don't have to open it up, all the wires are in three big connectors at the bellhousing on the passenger side, fuel, accel cable/hill hold, exhaust, PS, mounts. It *is* an easy job for a serious hobbyist, so you'll blow right through it. I've done out and in with a complete clutch job in less than a day, and that involved a lot of driving back and forth between two towns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Stock up on parts and look through my engine refresh thread. It took me about 14 days or solid work to get it pulled out, refreshed and thrown back in but I also did a lot of other small jobs at the same time. So I'd think it would take a little less time for you to do it as long as you have all the parts you need before you start. Also do the HG and timing stuff while you have it out. You'll never have a better chance to do it https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/brightons-2-2-engine-rebuild-258768.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zootal Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 It's an automatic, does that change anything? I had no idea you could split the engine/tranny with it in the vehicle like that.... I'll definitely look at Brighton96's engine refresh thread. If I can get this wiring problem (see my other thread), I'll give that some serious thought... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Oh, you are talking whole rebuild while you have it out? I thought you were just doing the separator plate. There is a little access hole near the electrical connectors where you reach in to disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate one bolt at a time. Rotate the crank nose, take one out, rotate, repeat... There are others that know more about that aspect than me. Be sure you understand how to get the trans input shaft back into the torque converter for re-install. I've heard of people wrecking things by doing something wrong with alignment at that step. Someone here must have described it already. If you can, I would get an engine leveler to use with the crane. Very much easier than without it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 Yes...make sure you understand how to 'seat the TC'....but not necessary if you don't move it out. I always put some tie straps over the TC to hold it in while R&R the engine. I'd just pull the engine, check the leak - likely IS the rear sep plate. Get the metal replacement if it's plastic (but I think those were a '95-'99 mistake)....otherwise just reseal. The rear main seal can be a PITA so don't touch unless it's the culprit. VC gaskets, Cam/crank seals, Oil pump O-ring and screws (on back of pump), Oil sender. I've got nothing to add on the FWD transmission...other than it may be hard to find a replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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