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I have an 06 lgt. I recently removed a high flow cat from my downpipe and installed a wideband sensor. I made a few pulls today using the wide band and I believe that removing the cat gave me better air flow. However when I hit about 10 psi of boost to 18psi range I am now at 12.5 to 13 afr. It should be closer to 11 where it was before. I use ecuflash and romraider. I am trying to figure out exactly which map or maps I need to rescale to achieve a richer mixture.

 

Does my car ever go into open loop anymore? Or how would I tell. Romraider gives me numerical values of about 8 to 10 and kinda stays there.

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I value when people want to learn and tune their own car but do you have any previous experience in tuning?

Does your car already have a tune for the downpipe?

What are your goals?

What are your mods?

 

That AFR is rather high during boost. I would recommend you do not drive your car during boost until you figure out the reason why the AFR is so high. It could be many things.

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Ya I have some experience tuning. I've maybe done 7 different cars...all subarus and not nearly as modified as mine. It would be rather expensive to fix mine so I'm trying to be 100 % sure. I am at 370whp.

FORCED PERFORMANCE RED TURBO WITH OIL LINES AND BANJO BOLTS

 

AEM COLD AIR INTAKE AND 4IN. TURBO INLET WITH K&N FILTER

 

DETSCHWORKS 320LPH HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP

 

INJECTOR DYNAMICS 1000CC TOP FEED INJECTORS, FUEL RAILS, AND LINES.

 

GODSPEED LARGE FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER

 

GRIMM SPEED TVG DELETES HOUSING

 

3" TURBO BACK EXHAUST

 

52MM AMERICAN RACING UP-PIPE, V-BAND

 

52MM TIAL EXTERNAL WASTEGATE, V-BAND

 

HTC MANUAL BOOST CONTROLER

 

52MM TIAL RE-CIRCULATING BLOW-OFF VALVE, V-BAND

 

STAGE 2 CLUTCH

 

DRILLED AND SLOTTED ZINC COATED ROTORS WITH GOLD SERIES CERAMIC BRAKE PADS

 

ARP HEAD STUDS

 

NEW SHORT BLOCK BUILT WITH RACING CRANK AND ROD BEARINGS

 

Tuned on a dyno

Just installed a wideband.

I had to change my downpipe and left the cat out. It was a ceramic spun 400cell high flow cat but I could see some areas getting blocked off a little so I disregarded it. Now I have a higher afr than I like and would just like to increase my richness a little in the 3500rpm to 7000rpm for safety.

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Something doesn’t add up to me. You say you have “tuning experience” but you’re unsure what tables to adjust? There are tuning guides and information around if you search for it but things really only start to make sense when you try things and see what changes what.

 

The first thing I’d be suspicious of is your WBO2 installation if things were believed to be fine up to that point...

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I have tuned backyard builds. The last was about 5yrs ago. I built my entire car on my own and there are a lot of variables unlike just upgrading turbo or changing injectors. I'm just trying to be sure that I remember exactly what I'm doing because the harder it runs the higher chance of something small destroys it. I thought to myself that one of the better ways to get this info and be sure its correct is to discuss it on forums where more than 2 ppl can see it and add advice. This is my first forum ever and this is like my 5th post so you'll have to excuse my ignorance. I have played around with it but I got to start from a pro map. I have thousands of hours in this car and it's very valuable to me. I'll try n get the LV up later
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The last 4 or 5 pulls are with the boost turned down about 2 psi. For safety because I'm guessing that there is a full second or more between the actual fuel ratio and what I'm seeing on the gauge.

d7c1e4d3e46c0f523b327ce98a5b7e3d.jpg

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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I'm not sure about the 06 LGT tables, but for the 08 LGT/OBXT, the table is called "Primary open loop fueling", under the "Fueling - Primary Open Loop" folder. The values in there are the target AFR's. You'll have the Primary open loop table and the Primary open loop (failsafe) table. Just make the (failsafe) table the same thing but richer.

 

If all you're doing is trying to make your tune richer, that will do it. That's assuming you haven't changed the intake or injectors, and that the injectors/intake were scaled properly to begin with. If you really want to cover your bases, you'd get a retune with a tuner.

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I would honestly suggest getting ahold of your previous tuner since he built the map and asking his opinion on the fueling change. A downpipe change itself should not change those afr's, especially if its being measured in the bellmouth which tells me something else is going on.

 

Things can break real quick at that power level and that lean, I'm not trying to be mean,nasty,rude or anything else, just concerned for you and your car as its not as easy as just "making" the car richer to do it right. There is a reason its running leaner and it must be figured out rather than just adjusting the table to hit target since that may cause much higher loads to be seen by the ecu or actually overfuel the car.

 

I have a feeling you have either developed a boost leak that does not show on your LV, a weak fuel pressure issue, bad metering device *maf or front 02* or the wideband could be in need of a new sensor/control unit/recalibrated etc.

 

Obviously this is just my .02

 

Hope it helps.

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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My car sat for 3 yrs in climate control. Jacked off the ground and ran through the gears every month with fuel treatment. It was tuned on a dyno by tpg tuning. It has the front 02 stock sensor in the exhaust manifold. I just eliminated a 400 cell ceramic spun high flow cat and replaced the downpipe. The new one has a spot about 4" post turbo and I put this new aspx wideband sensor there and I have the gauge in the cockpit. What I'm seeing is they show the same afr until the load climbs and at about 3500rpms till 7000 the stock says 11.1 and the wideband gauge says about 11.9 to 12.5 and I've only done it about 4 or 5 times because of the obvious. I can contact my old tuner. I am a welder...I can put the old cat back in...I changed the ol target but it didn't change a whole lot because the stock sensor keeps saying 11.1 but I dont think thats right. What do I need to do in order to unplug my stock o2 and just wire this aspx into my stock harness. Its already in close proximity and I know there's a hot, ground, and digital feedback. I have 4 wires on my stick one and 5 on the aspx and I know which ones are what on it. Do I have to calibrate the voltage input on my ECU yo scale?

I

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Didn't realize the stock scaled in mA till I checked ecuflash table. I used the ohm meter to find the same wire on both o2's that were returning .01mA at 14.68:1. The apsx gauge has to be plugged in because that's the power connection source but if u go all the way back to the wires coming out of the bosch lsu4.2 sensor before it goes into the connector its output it in mA because the connector has a resistor in it that changes it into voltage for the wideband gauge. Going to wire the lsu4.2 into my stock harness tomorrow. Will post more then.
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I appreciate the help from anyone that gave me ideas. I was more than likely the problem. I had too many variables at once to be certain of my constants. Here's an update. I was dead wrong about the o2 sensor and using a wideband connected to my stock ecu. That's not possible. So it's been about 5 years since I had done any tuning and really I forgot more than I knew and that's y I asked for help so that I wouldn't have to invest the time into studying. With that being said....I have the car tuned in correctly now right at about 11.0 to 11.4 range while under increasing loads. I spend hours and days reading and reading. This forum Is so incredibly helpful....then read everything I could in ECU flash and romraider. I also sourced some things in the open web but I always tried to cross reference them with this forum. Very helpful!

Thank you.

I am going to explain what i did.

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  • 1 month later...
Yes, sorry for the delay, my father passed. I will finish this soon.

Sorry to hear that, stuff like that is hard to handle.

 

Just some FYI goodies:

 

"BtSsm" - Bluetooth adapter/app V-2

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267811&referrerid=69064

Easier logging / monitoring than using a laptop. You already have the tuning hardware so you only need the app. DO IT NOW. It's awesome and incredibly convenient.

 

Logging Wideband O2 Via The TGV Sensor Input

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243134&referrerid=69064

Log realtime data from your wideband sensor through deleted TGVs.

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