kzr750r1 Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 So I'm looking at what is on the board about the speakers and head unit. Not much is current. I'm fine with the head unit. Not looking for aux or any other mods. Just decent working speakers. Stock seems to be the least trouble but what else is out there these days to make this work better long term? This is in my 2006 OBXT and it has the sub under the drivers seat. Looking around it seems stock is 4 ohm, 30 watt, paper cone, component in front and just the mid driver in back doors. Any suggestions who has a better set of speakers to match the head unit output so I don't pop the amp. Seriously looking at the JBL because I'm a fan of theirs but open to suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 So I'm looking at what is on the board about the speakers and head unit. Not much is current. I'm fine with the head unit. Not looking for aux or any other mods. Just decent working speakers. Stock seems to be the least trouble but what else is out there these days to make this work better long term? This is in my 2006 OBXT and it has the sub under the drivers seat. Looking around it seems stock is 4 ohm, 30 watt, paper cone, component in front and just the mid driver in back doors. Any suggestions who has a better set of speakers to match the head unit output so I don't pop the amp. Seriously looking at the JBL because I'm a fan of theirs but open to suggestions. Also interested and any plug and play options or near plug and play options, (im fine with splicing) to upgrade the under seat woofer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 I too am ok with ditching the stock connectors. Was intrigued JBL has a similar sub like ours... Take a look. In the end I may just get new stock drivers as they crap out. Not looking to engineer a new system into play as it's kept up with me for +200K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Yeti71 Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 You are looking at 6.5" speakers for the front and rear doors. Depending on depth of the speaker you choose, you might also want to get a set of spacers for the front door. Scosche makes spacers and the plug and play adaptors for your stock wiring. I have Alpine type S components in the front and 2-way in the rear simply because the price was right. They work just fine with the stock head unit. I am sure JBL makes something similar... j. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 Yes JBL have similar and I expect to have a mod involved to get the component to fit. Namely the tweeter in front door cards. Main deal is I want to stay in the same ohm rating so the amp is not taxed. JBL has some stage ratings of 2, 3 and 4 ohm options. Thanks for the Alpine suggestion. I'll take a look at those. Was listening last night and not sure it's the speaker. The passenger side for sure is not right. From what I've read the depth we can stuff in there is around 2.25" or so a space/adapter will for sure be needed based on most speakers having four mount points and our cars hose three mount points in the doors. Thanks for the Scosche suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Yeti71 Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 Glad to help. All four of my stock speakers were cooked (as they should after 180k miles). A standard 4ohm load will work well with your OEM head unit. I did use spacers for the front speakers. They fit the pattern of the OEM speaker. Then you simply bolt/screw your speaker to the spacer. The Type S tweeter fit perfectly on the stock bracket. I suspect JBL (or others) will work just as well. j. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 Sitting on a cart at Crutchfield now with the Alpines. Will probably go this route. Once I open up the right door card will try to determine what is vibrating back there. Luckily I have plenty of foam weather strip for the surround to card buffer. They are adding (free) the spacers and wire adapters. Looking at comparable price point and ohm ratings on the JBL will not match. JBL rears are 3 ohm and the front components are 4 ohm but the price is more. The miss match ohm rating just not going to happen. Compared to a crappy paper cone stock replacement at 30 wats at 4 ohm for just around 50 bucks more for a set (opposed to stock replacements) the Alpine S wins. Thanks for the suggestion I was getting a little spun with all the options out there. Just needed it to be simple and done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Yeti71 Posted September 12, 2018 Share Posted September 12, 2018 Let us know how it all turns out! j. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted September 12, 2018 Author Share Posted September 12, 2018 For sure, may get to it this weekend. Order should arrive Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrig Posted September 13, 2018 Share Posted September 13, 2018 subscribed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 Installed yesterday. For the most part painless. Needed to tack one new screw hole in the rear doors for the adapter to work. All of the speaker mount holes on the rear adapters needed to be drilled. All of the alpine speaker mount screws are too long and need to be cut down. Took a min to sort out that you abandon the stock location tweeter connection on the front door. Taking the Alpine tweeter out of it's housing was a perfect fit on the stock mount. Just used some ultra black to stick the magnet to the mount and some hot glue to hold it in place while that dried. You don't need to remove the stock foam surround on the tweeter mounts. Had some sticky back weather strip to wrap the surrounds so the door card had something to kiss like the stock surrounds. Will post up some progress pictures for reference soon. They need to break in but adding the coax in the back did elevate the highs a bit. Fronts are presents in the mix as well so I have dropped the treble -1 to -2 to even it out. Depends on the recording but cymbals like the ride or hi hats open up a bit. Good response from the mid drivers as well. Stock sub keeps up with them and cranked to 40 there is zero distortion. They may be a little over powered for this head but should be a good long term combination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Yeti71 Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Glad everything went smoothly for you. It is a pretty painless job, and well worth the time it takes over listening to the stock speakers. j. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 I noticed a big difference when I added sound deadening behind the speakers. There were a couple walkthroughs on Rynomat (I think) on how to add the deadening. It's a worthwhile difference. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamnamurt Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 quick question: I am looking for a simple replacement for the speakers, I drive the 2009 legacy 3.0r not limited with the harman kardon system. I understand I have an upgraded amp of 440w. Will it be possible to run component speakers? Do I need a new amp? What are the complications with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted September 19, 2018 Author Share Posted September 19, 2018 I'd say you could run components or any other speaker that matches the Ohm rating of the current speakers. Looking at the Crutchfield site real quick they identified the same speakers I just installed as a viable option. Now I selected based on assumption you have the factory HK system with sub and climate controls. Since you have a little better amp you may want to try and find out what their wattage rating is currently. The stockers on mine were 30w 4ohm. Placing 80w 4ohm will likely never really allow the speakers to be pushed to distortion. It's loud enough and sounds fine for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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