urdrwho Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 Car sat for two days. Today I get in the car, press the brake pedal and think -- this pedal is hard and pegged to the top of its travel. So I push it a bit, hit the button and nothing, no start. Try it again, same thing. So I decide that the pedal ins't going in enough to hit the switch, I press hard on the pedal and it goes down a bit. Hit the button and the car starts. The pedal then feels mushy for a bit, a few pumps and everything seems normal. The pedal was hard as though I had just finished testing to see if a brake booster is in good shape. Actually the pedal was so hardened to the top that it would be past any booster test I've ever done. So what now? Owned this car two months with multiple visits to the dealer and now another visit to the dealer is warranted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin3.6R Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 My pedal felt the exact same way when my battery went low. Felt hard as a rock. I got a jump and no issues since. I remember that was the first thing I noticed, the pedal seemed locked at the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too40gawlf Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Interesting. The battery on wife's car died yesterday. It was the OEM battery and I was planing on replacing it anyway. i did a bit of research and i went with the Autozone Duralast Gold battery. Its got 640 CCA and ( as opposed to the 550 from the OEM) and a 3 yr/5yr pro-rated warranty. The OEM battery on these cars is shit. Replace it with a better aftermarket brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 Hm? The battery was dead when I first test drove the car, car wouldn't start....dead battery. They replaced the battery and that was at the end of June 2018. Battery is 2 months old but maybe there is a parasitic drain on it? Locked is a good description of it. Time to get my meter out and check the battery. My pedal felt the exact same way when my battery went low. Felt hard as a rock. I got a jump and no issues since. I remember that was the first thing I noticed, the pedal seemed locked at the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chowser51 Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 I replaced mine with the Duralast Gold last month as well. Years ago I believed my parasitic drain was keeping my keyfobs too close to the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 There is a TSB for the battery charge logic. Get that update applied. I just started the car this morning using the remote start after having it sit for 12 days and it cranked like it was new. It still have the factory battery from Oct 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 Almost everything in this thread applies to 6th gen Legacies / 5th gen Outbacks, recent-gen XVs, Imprezas, etc. If you don't feel like reading it all, just skip ahead to the last few pages and yes, do yourself a favor and pickup the latest ECU reflash from your friendly stealership or apply it yourself by purchasing the reprogramming CD with Jul-2018 PAK files from Subaru and buying/borrowing a Tactrix OP v2 cable. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2819115 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 About June 24, 2018 when I test drove the car the battery was dead. So to do the test drive they had to install a new battery. I guess the OEM battery lasted 3 years? On 7/11/2018 I had the dealer apply the latest updates for the ECM. Vehicle history says - "S800 Tech updated ECM to the current version for optimized air flow correction and performance during AC operation." Hm? Doing my own updating is something that interests me. Possibly for the cost of updating at the dealer, I could buy the cable and CD. Can I update the TCM on my own? Almost everything in this thread applies to 6th gen Legacies / 5th gen Outbacks, recent-gen XVs, Imprezas, etc. If you don't feel like reading it all, just skip ahead to the last few pages and yes, do yourself a favor and pickup the latest ECU reflash from your friendly stealership or apply it yourself by purchasing the reprogramming CD with Jul-2018 PAK files from Subaru and buying/borrowing a Tactrix OP v2 cable. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2819115 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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