covertrussian Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 (edited) How To: Install Rear Trailing Arm Bushings on the Car (Without Removing Knuckles) You heard that right, you can install these without the painstaking process of removing the rear knuckle (which involves unbolting just about everything in the back). This will take about 2-3hrs depending on how fast you are and how rusted your car is. Tools needed: 1/2" breaker bar/wrench and 19mm Sockets19mm combination wrench14mm Socket for ABS/Handbrake holderHammerCouple flat head screwdriversPropane/MAP Torch Why replace the bushing? My OEM bushings were pretty torn and were detaching from the outer metal sleeve. Driver side one was cracked: Passenger side one was detached from the sleeve, I could see it separating while just unscrewing the retaining bolt. This guide will have pictures from both sides, so if it looks like the wrong side of the arm, that's why. Removal Steps Raise one of the rear sides and remove the wheel, the bushing can be seen on the far left under the car. Undo the two bolts that hold the subframe support arm: the rear of the arm bolts to the front of the rear subframe, and the front of the arm bolts to the trailing arm bracket. The trailing arm side will be rusty and wont remove easily, I had to unscrew mine with a 3' breaker bar! After subframe support arm is out of the way, unscrew the handbrake bracket and ABS sensor bracket, move these out of the way. If you've never removed the trailing arm bolt, it's gonna be STUCK. I didn't want to heat it because that might burn the ABS sensor wire, so instead I used PB Blaster and used my foot to break it loose. The outside facing bolt doesn't have enough room for even my low clearance craftsman socket, so 19mm combination wrench is a must, but it will fall off often. Also, you really want the trailing arm bracket be in place when breaking this guy loose, so don't touch those until you get the bushing bolt loosened. I was real hopeful that I wouldn't have to loosen the rear trailing arm bracket from the body, but the bushing bolt was way too long and would hit the body before it came out. Thus the bracket had to be loosened. Now the trailing arm bushing wont hang low enough give you access to burn it out or hammer it out. I found that if I jack up by rear of the knuckle, right at the toe arm, it will angle the front of the trailing arm to be below the body giving you plenty of room to work. Now it's time to heat the bushing, you mainly want to heat and loosen the glue on the outside rim of the bushing, where it attaches to the metal sleeve. Be careful not to burn the handbrake and ABS wire! I then took a big screw driver and was able to remove the bushing really easily, seriously one of the easiest removals I've done. On my left side the sleeve was so rusted, couple taps with a hammer and screw driver got it out. On the right side the sleeve was less compromised so it required a little more elbow grease to punch it out, once again a flat head and a hammer is your friend. After the bushing's metal sleeve is out I cleaned up the knuckle's hole with a file and spray painted it. After this we can now install the new bushings. Installation Steps I personally went with Whiteline W63398 bushings, there are a few other options on the market though. Installing these bushings is really easy since you install one half at a time. For Whiteline W63398, thinner bushing faces the outside and thicker one faces the inside of the car. Since these are poly bushings, I torqued them to the rear arm bracket right of way. FSM Torque: 111ft-lbs Afterwards the bracket needs to be rebolted to the body, this one is trickier to align. I used the jack under the shock mount and pulled the jack towards the front of the car, which helped me align the bolt holes. These need to be torqued to 92ft-lbs. Afterwards reinstall the handbrake & ABS holders and finally bolt on the subframe support arm. The support arm torque for the trailing arm bracket is 92ft-lbs, while the torque to the subframe is 129ft-lbs. Here is the bushing in place and everything torqued. Update: After 200 miles, it does look like the bushing walked out a little: Edited December 10, 2018 by covertrussian 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!Register a new account
Already have an account? Sign in here.Sign In Now