trautsretnuh Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 I've searched Google over and over. I have checked everything I can roadside. I'm more than desperate at this point so I'm trying to be precise in my explanation. First off, I don't drive this car much as it is my wife's. She told me it sputtered some right before it died. Now here is what I've checked so far... Battery got weak from her trying desperately to get it going. I hooked mine up. Turns over strong. Exposed top of fuel pump. Felt it hum during prime and turning over. Out flow of filter. As I turn it over, a steady flow of gas comes out of filter. Now for possible causes I've read. Fuel pump and filter. I have no pressure gauge can some one please describe to me visually the pressure I should see coming out of filter. Yes I know that is not science based but because I got robbed, literally, I'm working with what I've got. So that means no tow no mechanic for several days. Much less food and shelter. Sorry I'm off my pity pot now. Back on topic. Other causes I've read but need guiding to check coil pack, crank,cam, and knock sensors. But there's no check engine on. Plugs and wires. And last but hopefully not at all timing belt. Car has 200k miles.I know there's a lot here I just tried to be thorough. I'm new to posting so please tell me if this is too busy of a post. Thanks, Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 When the fuel pump is priming you should get a sink faucet level of water out of it, as if the faucet is on medium open, not wide open. Sorry for the dumb explanation, but that's the closest thing I could think of when I tested mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 Air, fuel and fire. Make sure the IACV hose has not become disconnected from air intake. (the @1' diam hose from the pcv area) Fuel ( you are checking). Make sure you have fuel. W/O a remote starter you need two people, to pull plug wires one at a time and using a non conductive holder with end near the coil, see if you get current jumping from the coil to the plug. You can check the resistance values of the coil to see if w/in specs. Others will chime in with more to look at. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 Does the rpm gauge bounce up a couple hundred rpm while cranking the motor? If not, you are possibly looking at a crank sensor or broken timing belt. If you have crank signal, can you smell gas when turning over the motor? If so, you have a spark issue and will need to check for spark coming out of the coil pack. Disconnect the wire from a sparkplug and have someone crank the motor. Did you get a little zap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trautsretnuh Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 Thank you for your responses. Per your description, Brighton, the fuel flow seems right. That was a spot on way to tell me what to see. Osel, this iacv hose is it on the passenger or drivers side. After posting yesterday I found a hose that went from passenger side of air box to a nipple right near the passenger side spark plugs. It was disconnected and when I connected it discovered it had a 2 inch split so it still wouldn't seal. 08Spec, I'm pretty sure the tach is seeing action when cranking. I'm not near the car right now, but I will intentionally watch that next. So next step is checking ignition/spark system. If it "runs" on starter fluid is that proof of spark or still do the testing. I'm new to this h4 design and I'm having to learn on the fly. I know it didn't reinvent the wheel but things are in different locations. I just thought my location would be a driveway not curbside. From experience and cash flow, I'm not a guy who just starts replacing parts til it happens to fix it. I'd love to take it to a garage, tell the guy make it run like new and call me when it's ready. But where's the fun in that. Thanks again, Stuart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 If it's @ 1/2 " in dia, then its a pcv hose that vents the fumes from the head back into the intake to be burned. Temporarily you can wrap it with tape. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 does the engine see a crank position sensor signal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 If it runs on alternate fuel, you have a fuel problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trautsretnuh Posted June 3, 2018 Author Share Posted June 3, 2018 Okay. A garage told me it needed a fuel pump. They showed me that after misting the manifold with gas it would start and as long as they kept the rpms up it would stay running. They were going to replace the fuel pump but I wasn't going to pay them what they wanted. Does that sound like a correct diagnosis. We have just enough for the pump. So if doesn't fix it no car and no money. Not to be impatient but I need feed back asap. Our other car is broke down now and this will be my only way to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 Sounds right but you have to understand none of us are in front of the car. It's extremely difficult to say 100% for sure that is your problem, but it sounds correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trautsretnuh Posted June 5, 2018 Author Share Posted June 5, 2018 Thank you 08Spec. I completely get that without being here there's no way to know exactly. Though as a compliment to you guys, I trust what you say more than someone who has actually seen it. When I was disconnecting the return line the nipple snapped off. is it even possible to epoxy that back with success? I've tried steelstick and this glue called sealall. it actually cranked for a second this morning until the sealall gave way. Steelstik didn't bond the plastic and the sealall ended up being a flexible material. I know plastiweld or marineweld has a different mode of action. or should I just find the unit at a junk yard and put the new pump in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 It's going to have to be a glue that is rated for fuel, and of the glues I know of that are rated for it, none of them harden enough to put a part like that back together, so you'll have to find a replacement part or a bandaid fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trautsretnuh Posted June 6, 2018 Author Share Posted June 6, 2018 Thanks Brighton96. My last try was marine weld. It failed. I think it might have worked if,unlike the out going line, there was more meat between where the connector comes to in relation to the 90. I couldn't really build the epoxy up because the connector wouldn't go on. Otherwise, that is one fantastic epoxy. Second, I can't tell if any of these adhesives have now restricted the flow through the 90. My desperation has me brainstorming but they all involve a one shot deal and any failure would require replacing the actual return line. Trying not to get that desperate. Doing this all alone in a parking lot with no other transportation or money to throw at it doesn't make it any easier. Now to the question. Should I be able to blow thru that nipple and the air be restricted or should it have some resistance as it goes thru what ever that is it flows thru before dumping back into tank. By the way no local pull a part has the assembly. So I guess I have another question. Can someone tell me what years/models use this same assembly. When I call and tell them late 90 early 2000 they want specific year and I don't know if they have a cross reference system to check what all would work. Sorry for the lengthy message. You guys are my only resource at this point. Thanks, Stuart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trautsretnuh Posted June 7, 2018 Author Share Posted June 7, 2018 SHE'S ALIVE. This ordeal is a microcosm of my lesson learning curve. It typically takes me more than one mistake/failure to learn my lesson. Albeit being broke is what drove this train. Anyway, first off subarus are not easy too find at scrap yards.after discovering car-part.com, a salvage yard database,I found 1 fuel pump assembly about 30 min. away. Went and picked it up. Put the new pump in the assembly. Installed said assembly. Got someone to jump me off and after about 5-7 minutes of purging the air out of the lines. It ran. After more than a week of guessing, towing, dealing with a garage, trying to fix my mistake in a parking lot. Its running and the battery even held its charge. Thank you for everyone's time and words of wisdom. This was a learning experience in several ways. I learned about the car. I learned how to find out what years and models share same parts. You can bandaid many things but the fuel system isn't one of them. And if the means are there do what you know will work the first time. My bandaids would have paid for half the pump in the first place. Thanks again. Now to address the other broke down vehicle but everything's easier with one running car. I'll be back posting and hopefully it will be under more normal circumstances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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