tailofthewagon Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 My '05 LGT Wagon finally bit the dust in South Texas... at 98k miles. I towed it back to NC and am going to install a remanufactured engine. I found a local shop that sells remanufactured EJ255s for $3000. They also offer several options, whose merits I am debating.. My first priority for this car is reliability. I would like it to be a reliable daily driver for at least the next five years. Secondly, I like a little extra zip over stock. Prior to failure, I had the car running a Cobb Stage 2 tune. Other than the tune and an STI uppipe, it's completely stock. So, the shop offers the following... "+$250 for piston top gold coating with Nippon upgraded rings +$200 upgraded bearings; trimetal with extra oil clearance, and coated with thermal lubricant +$200 for crank thermal coating +$200 ARP head studs +$150 ARP rod bolts" Are any of these upgrades worthwhile for someone who doesn't intend to go above Stage 2 power in the next few years? So far, I'm thinking ARP rod bolts. Will they provide significantly more headroom/longevity for someone around my power levels? Or should I save the money? I appreciate any feedback! For eyecandy: a sad shot of my car being flatbedded away somewhere outside of Del Rio, TX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 What was the failure that is dictating a reman? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 From the sound of it, it was running a stage 2 tune on a stock downpipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 The ARP head studs are a must. the other stuff is just fluff. Read my click here link in my sig. As said above, you need a 3" catted down pipe. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Honestly, I’m always really skeptical remanufactured motor from anyone, (maybe too skeptical...) for the prices you’ve been quoted I’d suggest just buying a stock short block from Heubergers Subaru in Colorado, it’s $1900 shipped to you. Have your heads looked at to make sure their good to go and call it a day. At stage 2 power levels and a good tune, (very important) you should have no issues. I ran my car at stage 2 for 9 years including 9 seasons at the track where I absolutely drove the piss out of it before finally cracking a ring land, (and still drove it the entire winter before getting a new forged internal short block and upgraded heads put in). On a daily driver that isn’t being redlined at the track all the time, I’d go the Huebergers route. Factory built, factory tolerances, that’s perfectly fine at stage 2 daily driver. Sure you could go ahead with the ARP headbolts for added insurance but everything else? Meh... don’t really need it at stage 2 for a daily driver. I recently put a HB stock short block in my daily driver (stage 2 ‘08 Outback) and it’s been flawless. Longevity at stage 2 power levels is really more about a good tune than a built motor unless your taking it to the track a ton. Also you MUST have an aftermarket Downpipe to run stage 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.