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Valentine 1 Install


Limeydriver

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  • 2 months later...
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on mine i ran the power from the driver side fuse box. i tapped into the CIGAR fuse. i also tucked the phone cord (yes, just cheepo black cord i had at home) and into the a-pillar weather seal, up above the ceiling and down through the rear view mirror plastic black strip (mine's a powered mirror). so the wire comes out from where the mirror is secured. it's a clean install. im running an old 7500.
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[quote name='kenchan'] i also tucked the phone cord (yes, just cheepo black cord i had at home)[/quote] FYI phone cords will not work with current Valentine product w/o modification. The pin configuration is opposite on each end of the wire: 1234 VVVV 4321
ignore him, he'll go away.
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[quote name='fweasel']FYI phone cords will not work with current Valentine product w/o modification. The pin configuration is opposite on each end of the wire: 1234 VVVV 4321[/quote] thanks for the info. on my G35C i used the V1's original phone cord so it was okay. On the Legacy im running a Passport7500 and the red is still (+), green was still (-).
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[quote name='kenchan']thanks for the info. on my G35C i used the V1's original phone cord so it was okay. On the Legacy im running a Passport7500 and the red is still (+), green was still (-).[/quote] Got it. The Valentine I just installed for rclark0032 uses a 4 conductor wire w/ RJ-11 (standard telephone) plug on each end. Most peoples immediate reaction when they relaize the included cord is not long enough, is to go to Radio Shack and buy a longer black cord. They will work, but you'll need a crimping tool and a new RJ-11 plug so you can transpose the wires at one end. Or, you can cut the wire in the middle and splice the 4 wires backwards.
ignore him, he'll go away.
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  • 1 year later...
[quote name='AWD_Rules3830']how does one tap power from the fuse panel (im new at this).[/quote] you can buy (any mostly every auto/audio/electrical places) a fuse jack that will render you 2 usable fuses and a 12v lead. I believe this is what you are referring to? this is a picture of brother rage's stri install using this "break out box" idea. [URL]http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57417&highlight=stri&page=6[/URL] pics are in post #79 and basic install/wiring info in post #78. hope that helps :)

brian

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A further comment about the OP's install: I put mine above the mirror, too; but I put it on the [b]passenger side[/b]. Because of the yaw in the mirror to allow the driver to see out the rear window, there's more space on the passenger side. And rather than use the suction cups, I took them off their mount and used velcro, fuzz stuck on the windshield over the black dots up there. Another bit of velcro fuzz stuck to the top of the mirror housing (I have the Home-Link one) provides just enough of a shim to let the V1 actually rest on the mirror itself, for stability. HPH
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[quote name='DrCloud']A further comment about the OP's install: I put mine above the mirror, too; but I put it on the [B]passenger side[/B]. Because of the yaw in the mirror to allow the driver to see out the rear window, there's more space on the passenger side. And rather than use the suction cups, I took them off their mount and used velcro, fuzz stuck on the windshield over the black dots up there. Another bit of velcro fuzz stuck to the top of the mirror housing (I have the Home-Link one) provides just enough of a shim to let the V1 actually rest on the mirror itself, for stability. HPH[/quote] Can you post a pic of this? The suction cups on my v1 are my arch-enemy. Right now its wedged in b/w the mirror. I need to find a better mounting solution.
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[quote name='"Equinoxx"']Can you post a pic of this?[/quote] Sorry this is a bit out of focus -- the darkness got my camera confused, I guess. (And don't ya love those air-bag stickers?) [IMG]http://www.hphanson.com/LGTB/V1Mount.jpg[/IMG] You can see the Velcro fuzz on the mirror; the mount itself is just the suction cup slide-on with the cups removed and strips of Velcro across the mount and on the window. (The heat caused the Velcro stick-um to come off the slide-on, so I used some Goop, from AutoZone, to stick it on securely.) I've run wiring across the lip of the headliner, down the A-pillar, and then to the fusebox by the driver's left knee, with a jumper fuse in the 12-volt socket circuit. One curious thing about this: In garages, the V1 likes to show off its laser alarm mode. I don't know what it could be, because it's not just my garage at home -- parking garages to this, too. But it doesn't go off outside, even at night. And it seems to be associated with the front-side receiver (because if you cover it up, the alarm stops). None of my other cars have done this. Maybe it's the tint band up along the top of the windshield or something. HPH
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I mounted mine below the mirror with the suction cups, and routed the wiring up through the headliner, down the left a-pillar, and tapped into a circuit 15 wire and screwed the ground strap into the chassis. Works like a charm :)
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Awesome .. thx for the pic!! I tried the packing tape idea but they still wont stick. Maybe i just got some bum suction cups. I'll have to play with it, but good idea with the Velcro! And yea my v1 trips the laser alarm occasionally. I'm pretty sure it's the upper tint of the windshield that does it. While it was out i pointed it directly at the tint band and it went off. Repeated it a few times just to be sure. So I mounted mine a hair lower just because of that. FWIW i ran the wire into the headliner lamp / sunroof controls section. Tapped power in there but had to search for ground. Ended up using the screw that holds in the light assembly. Works fine tho.
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I've found that the precise tilt of the unit (with the clicks on the slide-on mount) makes all the difference with the laser alarm, and I suspect it has to do with whether it's seeing the tint or not. Now, why that would be a factor is something of a question. The laser receiver is tuned to pick up infrared radiation in the band of police lidar units, in the near-IR, I believe. This isn't the color of the tint at all. Further, there would need to be a light source that the tint is filtering to the right wavelengths. Perhaps the unit itself emits some IR and the tint reflects it. Anyway, it's a bit of a mystery, and annoying as well. HPH
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^ That's pretty much the idea - in the speed-detections countermeasures community, any and all of the following have been cited (and proven) to elicit laser falses. Unfortunately, as the V1 is extremely sensitive to laser, this compounds problems when it comes to "falsing." - bright (direct or indirect) sunlight - sunlight filtered through "moving" trees, etc. - aftermarket or factory HIDs "shining into" the laser sensor - various vehicles' laser-based active and passive safety and comfort/convenience (i.e. cruise-control) systems - various vehicles' "neon" tail-lamps - various vehicles' vehicle interior ICE devices, including OEM as well as aftermarket nav screens (i.e. refresh rate "flicker" match) The list goes on and on. With your particular issues, [b]DrCloud[/b] and [b]EquinnoxX[/b], it could even be due to slight imperfections in the windshield at your chosen mounting locations - it could be that, as [b]DrCloud[/b] cited, indeed, the angle/tilt of the unit is making a difference due to little tiny scratches on the glass surface somehow scattering incoming visible light more than it should, otherwise, and eliciting, in conjunction with perhaps "just right" vibrations seen by the detector, the laser false. Yep, this is somewhat annoying, but as with radar-band falses, it's just something that we have to live with, at least for the time being. :) ----- As for mounting: A bit of creativity and the 3M VHB tape or 3M DualLock ("Velcro") setup can also render "suction-cup woes" a thing of the past. :) Note, though, that these are somewhat more "permanent" solutions. I've been told by experienced hands that VHB can be removed without residue, without even any use of solvents, but I haven't tried to do so, myself, so be warned! Finally, you can also "smooth out" the ceramic-"sundots" area by sandwiching a piece of cut-to-desire plexiglass or other smooth plastic into the headliner, and then using it (stabilized with even just a strip of 3M Automotive Trim Tape) to serve as the "base" for the suction cups. Those who can fabricate/metalwork can also utilize this idea to custom-mount the detector in this manner.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 3 weeks later...
I came across this custom Valentine 1 mount and bought it as soon as I saw it. They also make it for the Escort and Bel Mount. [URL]http://countryjoycrafts.com/350Z/valentinemount.htm[/URL] [IMG]http://countryjoycrafts.com/350Z/v-1mount-71.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://countryjoycrafts.com/350Z/plain-valentine-1.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://countryjoycrafts.com/350Z/v-1mount-722.jpg[/IMG] I have used it in my STi and now installed it in my LGT and is the best mount i've yet to see and is in a perfect location, it connects to your mirror stem and I hard wired it up to my map lights. Heres a pic of it when I had it in my STi... looks the same in my LGT but havent taken any pics of it. [IMG]http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/bennycent50/V1.jpg[/IMG]
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[quote name='MrCoffee']wow, I always wondered who left the V1 on the loudest setting :P Looks neat though. How hard is it to get on and off if you share one between two cars?[/quote] Haha I change the volume depending on how loud my music is, must have been loud that day :lol: It would be a PITA to share this with 2 cars, the detector itself slides out really easily at the click of the little release bar, but the actual part that it slides into is the factory V-1 piece (aka windshield mount) and that piece is screwed into the custom mount. The custom mount itself uses 2 allen wrench bolts to close the 2 pieces around the mirror stem so your best bet is to buy 2 custom mounts, and buy another factory release clip (or windshield mount, [URL]https://store.valentine1.com/store/default.asp?category=partsdept[/URL]) <-- its only 10 bucks from the V-1 parts website
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