Jump to content

Anyone buy From Copart.com


Recommended Posts



this is just an example i wasn't looking at this particular car but lets say i want it.


It's listed as" bill of sale parts only". how hard would it be to get a title for this sort of purchase?


is it possible to ever legally get that car on the street again?


i'm sorry if this is a stupid question i'm not sure about anything when it comes to car buying and especially of this nature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The seller is saying they are selling it as Parts only for their own liability/cover their asses from a buyer claiming ignorance down the line. Since its Hail Damaged, you can refer to your locaility's titling restrictions/specifications. Your title will say something odd like "Salvage/Rebuilt" "Hail Damage" etc but doesnt matter if you plan to keep it. Insurance would also be limited i know in VA you can only carry liability no Comp/Collision and bank financing for a car like that is tough/not an option.



Seems like an intact car and is a 2.5i so im

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I buy from there regularly. If it's sold as "parts only", don't plan on being able to legally drive it on the road ever again.


I do not know why some vehicles are listed that way rather than on salvage certificates. My guess is some states require vehicles with >x% damage be sold as parts only. Rarely the case here in TN unless it's burned or just banged up beyond all hope.


I got set up years ago as a "premier" buyer which reduces your fees somewhat. It's kind of pricey to do that (about $600 from what I remember, plus $150 per year for the "privilege" of buying there) so probably not worth it if you're only planning to buy one car one time and never again.


Speaking of fees, they're steep. If I win a car with a high bid of $1k, my out the door cost (before tax) will be around $1350. If I wasn't a premier buyer it'd be more like $1500. Fees do level off around $4-600 per car once you get into the $3k up range but expect to pay no less than $300 on top of your winning bid and you probably won't be too surprised.


-You have to pay within 2 days of the sale. If not it's an extra $50.

-You have to pick your car up within 5 business days. After that it's $20/day storage.

-You have to pay with a cashier's check or money order if doing so in person. They will not take cash over about $400 (but that varies from yard to yard). You can pay with a credit card online but they charge more for that (about 5%).

-Pictures you see are of the car AS IT ARRIVED ON THE YARD. If it's significantly different, tough, it's your POS once it leaves the yard. If a loader swipes the "good" side of the car, tough. If the previous owner shows up and takes all the hot rod stuff off it after the pics were taken, tough.


For that reason I suggest you ONLY buy from the yard local to you so you can inspect the car in person before bidding. You can ONLY inspect during the time and day the yard specifies, generally the day before the auction. If you show up hoping to see a car that isn't in that week's auction, they're not gonna let you look at it no matter how far you drove or how much you whine.


Depending on which state you're in you may be able to buy salvage without a dealer's license. It's free to set up an account on Copart but you have to pay a deposit before they'll let you bid any significant amount. Dunno what it takes to get your deposit back. . . they've had mine for nearly 10 years now but I still buy there.


You CAN get some good deals there but for the most part the secret is out. You'll be bidding against local buyers, interstate buyers, and buyers abroad but they sell something like 100k cars per day so if nobody's interested in your lot you may be able to sneak it out. Subaru typically does not get bid on by international people, the UAE and saudis go nuts for Lexus and Toyota stuff. . . central and south americans buy trucks and little cheap shitball cars (yaris, kia, hyundai, etc.) at insane prices considering what it must cost them to ship but that's your competition.


The process for converting from a salvage certificate to a rebuilt title varies state to state so I can only tell you what it takes here. It's not a terrible process but the dept of revenue does not want to be bothered by you so don't screw up the paperwork. It takes weeks every time you send something in and there's nobody to call to ask what's up or check status. You can leave a message and they'll call you back when they're bloody well good and ready but that's about it.


Paperwork involves submitting the signed salvage certificate, photos of the car in unrepaired state (as you bought it), invoices for major parts used or copies of salvage certs for donor vehicles if you used your own parts. . everything has to have a donor VIN if used and name/address of seller if used (so ebay parts invoices get rejected a lot of the time).


Not saying "don't do it" but know what you're getting into. It's really not for the casual one time buyer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use