JustCallMeNick Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 I did some bizarre damage to my car recently. I was driving, kind of on mental autopilot, when I saw a cool shop on the side of the road with custom dune buggies and stuff. Last minute left hand turn into the next driveway I saw resulted in me sliding sideways from the dirt/dust/inertia/ABS. I do realize this was 100% my fault even though it was an honest mistake. Should have stopped in a straight line or just waited. Last minute driving decisions are no bueno. The body guy said he'd never seen anything like it. I missed my exhaust and as the right rear wheel dropped down into the ditch, that weight was transferred to the spare tire well area which is what was holding the car up. The result is that the rear of the vehicle is bent slightly up and the rear quarters were pushed outward causing buckling in the quarters near the rear window and the little metal piece that the trunk latches closed to (on the bottom side) snapped off. I'm kind of a virgin when it comes to insurance claims, especially with modified vehicles so I'm admittedly a bit anxious. Anyway, for your entertainment: Okay I'm scaling down the rest of the images to upload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 So it needs, both quarters, trunk floor, bumper, maybe right fender, rocker panels, maybe even panel metal? I'm not good with body work, but I know it's potentially an ice berg. What you see is only 10% of the total damage. So I think... Totaled. Just a guess though, I think I'm over looking something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 If you fix every little thing like the 2 inch tear on a part of the bumper that isnt visible, the front bumper which can just be reattached by me, the trunk latch which I can take care of, all that plus the twisting, etc. - I'm sure it's totaled but a lot of that doesn't bother me. This wasn't a showroom Legacy to begin with. If they can contort it *mostly* back to the way it was and additional tire wear is minimal, handling is okay, etc. - Is there any reason I shouldn't keep it? I expect to be in a much better financial position in the next couple years so it's not like I need it to be immaculate and keep rebuilding it for the next 20 years (no offense guys haha). Does this seem like a reasonable position to take? It would still be a much better car than I would end up with if I just gave up on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Preliminary Estimate Line Oper Description Part Number Qty Extended Price $ Labor Paint 1 REAR BODY & FLOOR 2 * Rpr Rear floor pan 5.0 1.7 3 R&I Rear trim 0.2 4 REAR BUMPER 5 R&I R&I bumper cover 1.0 6 # Rpr Set up & measure 1.0 F 7 # Rpr Pull rear structure 4.0 F 8 TRUNK LID 9 Repl Striker 57531AG000 1 7.33 0.2 10 # Rpr Realign deck 2.0 11 QUARTER PANEL 12 * Rpr RT Quarter panel 12.0 2.2 13 Add for Clear Coat 0.9 14 * Rpr LT Quarter panel 6.0 2.2 15 Overlap Major Non-Adj. Panel -0.2 16 Add for Clear Coat 0.4 17 R&I Fuel door 0.3 18 Blnd Fuel door 0.2 19 R&I RT Qtr glass Subaru 1.5 20 # Repl Glass kit 1 20.00 21 R&I LT Qtr glass Subaru 1.5 22 # Repl Glass kit 1 20.00 23 R&I LT Lower molding black 0.2 24 R&I RT Lower molding black 0.2 25 Blnd RT Lower molding black 0.2 26 R&I RT Upper qtr trim off black 0.2 27 R&I LT Upper qtr trim off black 0.2 28 REAR LAMPS 29 R&I RT Tail lamp assy 0.3 30 R&I LT Tail lamp assy 0.3 31 REAR DOOR 32 Blnd RT Door shell Legacy 1.0 33 R&I RT Belt w'strip 0.2 34 R&I RT Upper molding Legacy 0.3 35 R&I RT Handle, outside body color bronze 0.3 36 R&I RT R&I trim panel 0.3 37 ROOF 38 Blnd Roof panel w/sunroof 1.6 39 * R&I RT Drip rail 0.7 40 * R&I LT Drip rail 0.7 41 * R&I RT Roof w'strip 0.4 42 * R&I LT Roof w'strip 0.4 3/27/2018 12:07:14 PM 305068 Page 2 Preliminary Estimate Customer: Evans, Nick Job Number: 2009 SUBA Legacy GT Limited Manual 4D SED 4-2.5L Turbocharged Gasoline MPFI Black met. 43 R&I Sunroof glass 0.6 44 * R&I Frame assy 2.0 45 # Refn Rope off winshield molding 1.0 46 # Repl Cover vehicle 1 5.00 0.3 47 # Refn Denib & finnesse 1.6 48 OTHER CHARGES 49 # E.P.C. 1 3.00 SUBTOTALS 55.33 42.3 12.8 NOTES Estimate Notes: This is a preliminary estimate there may be additional labor or part needed for this repair. ESTIMATE TOTALS Category Basis Rate Cost $ Parts 52.33 Body Labor 37.3 hrs @ $ 46.00 /hr 1,715.80 Paint Labor 12.8 hrs @ $ 46.00 /hr 588.80 Frame Labor 5.0 hrs @ $ 55.00 /hr 275.00 Paint Supplies 12.8 hrs @ $ 30.00 /hr 384.00 Other Charges 3.00 Subtotal 3,018.93 Sales Tax $ 436.33 @ 6.0000 % 26.18 Grand Total 3,045.11 Three grand isn't too bad... Do you think that there will be another few grand in surprises? This seems really manageable as long as my insurance company has doesn't poke around too much when they come out to look at the car... I'm only stage 2. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 That's a much cheaper labor rate then here where I live. $46.00 /hr was like back in the early 1990's. Did it need to be towed out of that ditch or did you drive it out ? I wonder if X-mod in the newer cars would have been able to drive out of that ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 $3k seems very low. My wife's '14 Forester needed a new rear floor pan and bumper after a rear end collision. Also needed the rear hatch but the rear quarters were fine. That repair bill came to ~$17k two years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Interesting.. I thought those hourly labor rates looked low too. So I pulled out some receipts from 2011 when I was living in CT and had a dealership body shop do some work on my car.. To my surprise, my labor rates were very similar. I thought body shops would charge a lot more than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 I also think they look low. If you got a buddy, have them fix it and sell it haha. I just fixed mine, I'm looking for something new next year LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 That's a much cheaper labor rate then here where I live. $46.00 /hr was like back in the early 1990's. Did it need to be towed out of that ditch or did you drive it out ? I wonder if X-mod in the newer cars would have been able to drive out of that ? Yeah obviously the labor rate is less than half of a normal repair shop labor rate. I guess there are so many labor hours involved in bodywork and collision repair usually that it works out. I was not able to drive out of the ditch on my own although with a little more patience and engineering I probably could have. Some people came by and stuck an old car wheel ramp and 2"x8" board down there so the wheel would have something to fall on. Then a few of them pushed me while I gently drove out with ease. I drove the car to class tonight and it felt great. Unless I get some really scary news I'm gonna try as hard as I can to keep the car. I've never owned a car that wasn't at least a little messed up and I've never been one to baby my vehicles. I mean, if it handles okay, and tracks okay, and makes me happy when I drive it, and it's safe to drive, ... Am I right? Updates to come as I get them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Wait, I'm sure I'm missing something - where are the prices for the actual metal parts, etc? Or are they just "straightening and painting"? I see about $3k in labor + paint. $52 in parts seems SUPER low. Any frame damage? Car might be less likely to be safe in a full accident.. I got rear-ended in my wagon, and labor/paint was $3k, but total was like $6k. Mind you, not my fault, insurance paid, and NorCal labor rates, but still.. Yours looks MUCH worse than mine - I drove it home. Honestly, if the insurance is willing to give you $3-4k, take it and run, IMHO.. That's a chunk of damage - and if it DOESN'T handle/track ok at the end, will you get your $$ back? I doubt it.. Just MHO. Edit: Hmm. Now I see it's a 2009 5MT.. That's pretty rare.. Yeah, might be worth it. I was thinking 2005. How many miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Wait, I'm sure I'm missing something - where are the prices for the actual metal parts, etc? Or are they just "straightening and painting"? I see about $3k in labor + paint. $52 in parts seems SUPER low. Any frame damage? Car might be less likely to be safe in a full accident.. I got rear-ended in my wagon, and labor/paint was $3k, but total was like $6k. Mind you, not my fault, insurance paid, and NorCal labor rates, but still.. Yours looks MUCH worse than mine - I drove it home. Honestly, if the insurance is willing to give you $3-4k, take it and run, IMHO.. That's a chunk of damage - and if it DOESN'T handle/track ok at the end, will you get your $$ back? I doubt it.. Just MHO. Edit: Hmm. Now I see it's a 2009 5MT.. That's pretty rare.. Yeah, might be worth it. I was thinking 2005. How many miles? EDIT: Yes, it looks like just a lot of straightening and re-aligning things and painting. I do feel like I heard what sounds like loose end links recently. I should look into that. I drove mine home too and have been driving it everyday since this happened Saturday. Car still puts smiles on my face. It's a black on black 2009 5MT now with 148,xxx miles. Compression numbers last summer at 136,255 miles were 148, 145, 147, 140. Plenty of dings and blemishes but I love the thing. Goes through hardly any oil. Not to mention I just dumped $1900 into a new clutch, flywheel resurfacing, TOB, TOB sleeve kit and labor (plus a few tiny things) like two months ago. I'd almost just as soon drive it as is but if they can bend it back a little and paint over the exposed metal where it buckled and peeled, that sounds great. You guys are probably cringing haha. I'm less and less bothered by this situation lol. I appreciate everyone's insight!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howardman Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 im guessing you had the vehicle towed to your house and the adjuster did an estimate for what they could see and assumed best case scenarios. once you get it into a shop and completely taken apart they're going to call in a supplement and the bottom line will grow. theres something more than what is visible, that right qtr pnl is buckled bad. my guess is the rt rear frame rail is bent up. it may still be repairable, but theres almost definitely more damage there. you do what you like, but id want it fixed or totaled because theres structural damage which could definitely affect the safety of the car. the labor rates are what the insurance company writes at and, depending on the company and the area, they may be negotiable with the body shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 Yeah we’ll see. It’s a real PITA from such a minor incident. More inconvenient than anything. My body shop appointment is April 16. I’ll post an update when I find out more. For now I’m driving it everyday. I didn’t have it towed. I drove it two hours home. But yes - that was a preliminary parking lot inspection done by someone at the body shop and I do expect the bill to grow. Totaling it is still a very real possibility sadly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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