Dalee1104 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Okay so I'm trying to sell my car and upgrade to a 2005 legacy gt turbo. That being said I've been making sure the thing is running in tip top shape and going well. But as of last night I was driving home and i started hearing this noise that I've never heard. I've pulled this engine out and gone over all the gaskets and want to say I have a decent knowledge of it but i have never heard this noise before. While I'm idling is really loud, the pitch doesn't really change no matter what rpm your at though. It's a super loud whistle kind of accompanied by sometimes a little but of a low rough ish idle but nothing to series. At first I thought my radiator had a puncture and steam was blowing out of it making a loud whistle but no coolant leaks or anything. If I snap the throttle is stops for a short second or lowers in pitch before regaining it's normal consistent pitch. It's loudest kinda right by the egr valve so i thought it was that but it seems to be coming from underneath the intake manifold. My dad was thinking it's a vacuum leak but as far as we can tell there aren't any. This is on the 97 gt that has about 240k miles on it, head gaskets and everything else done around 190k. I can do the work myself it's just that I have no clue what this even is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalee1104 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Also it seems it doesn't do it until the car is warm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 I would think maybe a vacuum leak, maybe from the IACV, PCV or EGR (if you have it) Also, do you have the accordion section of the snorkle/intake? Those like to crack/leak in the valleys of the accordion ribs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 I also vote for a vacuum leak. It can be pretty hard to track them down. I find that the trick of squirting some fuel like stuff (carb clean, propane, ether, etc) around until it gets sucked in the leak to change idle works a whole lot less well on computer cars than on carburetor cars. Maybe if you had a way to watch IACV duty cycle on a scope while doing the test it would work better? Perhaps if you shot water on it until the sounds stops or gurgles? Once you find it I'm sure it will be easy to fix... The gold standard is a smoke and pressure test, but I don't think I've ever met anyone with a smoke machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalee1104 Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Okay so i got the p0420 code again and also the p0507 which has to do with the idle being irregular. I figured I'd try the IACV and replaced it with a spare. No luck, i used the starting fluid and found the driver side fuel rail has a leak it seems. When I spray the forward most injector the car stutters but the noise shuts up. When I spray the rear one it's kinda the same but not as exaggerated. I've also noticed a significant increase in pops though the exhuast then usual along with poor drivability especially at idle. Is this a failing injector or a leaking intake manifold gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 I doubt it is the injector itself, they do have orings holding them in but in my experiences, those orings seal very well and are very difficult to break free, so my guess is the intake gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalee1104 Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Balls, that's the one I didn't want it to be lol intake gasket is more of a pain then a injector Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Is yours the top feed injectors or the side feed? It should be impossible for side feed to let air into the intake. It would let fuel leak out instead because of the locations of the orings and the fuel pressure. Top feed could leak air. But I would say it's more likely to be the intake to head gasket. Did you check torque on the bolts for it? You *might* get by just running them to spec if they have worked loose over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalee1104 Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 That was exactly it chaz and i feel dumb for it. Some of the bolts just worked themselves loose, tightened them up and no more problems occurred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Don't feel dumb. I went through the exact same thing on my Plymouth project. Everything we know, there was a point in time *before* we knew it. That is the point of things like the forum where we can share what we've learned, and explore for the things we haven't yet learned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 That was exactly it chaz and i feel dumb for it. Some of the bolts just worked themselves loose, tightened them up and no more problems occurred You want to know a worse repair blunder? I did all that work to my wife's Outback to get the new engine in, took it around the block started to misfire, but no codes but obvious misfire. Went through all the motions of checking grounds, swapping sensors, but the misfire refused to go away. We sat on the car for 3 more months and I was ready to part it out. I even went as far as inventorying the car for the parts I was gonna strip and bought my wife a brand new car. The day before I was about to start the part out, I was outside doing something on the exhaust and noticed the number 3 coil wire on the COP was slightly askew. Thinking to myself, "That was too easy! No way it could have been that!", I fired up the car. NO MORE MISFIRE and the car ran better than before This was also the car that developed the leak on the transmission pan a day after I resealed it. Turned out that I forgot to torque the transmission pan bolts. It was at that moment, feeling defeated, foolish, and downright embarrassed that we cleaned up the car, replaced the O2 sensors, and sold the bitch for $3,000, breaking even with our tail between our legs. Moral of the story: The most simplest, overlooked part of it could be the result of your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 You have no idea how many times I've worked on peoples cars with bizarre issues that ended up coming down to a disconnected or not fully seated connector, it's become so common now that I don't even speculate what could be wrong or even tell them a price before I get a chance to look at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 So...just 2B Devil's Advocate....that '05 LGT? You're familiar w/the EJ255's history of failures? That VF40 tur(d)bo? CV, suspension, and other 'fixits' that seem to like to to fail @ 100K+ miles? Please don't pay too much and ensure your trust fund is full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalee1104 Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 Oh yeah I've heard the issues on the car but im not too worried. I just like the car and whatever problems it has I'll just fix. It's what I've done with this current legacy, went as far as pulling the engine, replaced the suspension, axles, clutch. I'll be willing to do that again to a new car just for experience and fun of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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