gathermewool Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Just had a complete discharge to dead overnight on our 1-month old 2018 Limited. The head unit went AWOL yesterday, pretty sure it's related to that, cannot see any other cause and not blaming the battery, but definitely a disappointment. At least it's the weekend and she can sit on the slow charge overnight. If you're able to, check the electrolyte levels in each cell. We've had a couple of accidental discharges and each resulted in at least one cell showing low - my old Civic had a dead battery and one cell had the top of its plate exposed. I added just enough distilled water to cover the plate and then charged it fully. Charging will result in the electrolyte levels rising, especially if the battery is found dead outside in the frigid cold, then brought indoors to charge at a much warmer temperature. When the battery is fully charged, ensure electrolyte levels are still above the plates and between the top and bottom level marks, if applicable. Our '14 FXT has a clear battery case, with two lines to show proper level. It's kind of hard to see, but with a flashlight lit directly next to the cell, it's very clear where the level is. // Finally, be careful using a dumb charger. Unless it's a smart-charger or dedicated maintainer, you'll need to keep an eye on voltage. My 2A/6A Schumacher dumb-charger will cause very high voltages, even though the little amperage needled indicates 100% full and supposedly no current. It will try to put the set current in, and when the battery is full, the only way to do that is to allow the voltage to creep up. This may result in excessive gassing (electrolyte depletion) and potential damage to the plates. Except for occasional equalizing charges at higher voltage, exceeding the mid 14's VDC is not good for long-term charging. If you see your voltage after overnight charging in the 15's VDC I'd say to stop charging immediately and check your electrolyte levels. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denokarter Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Any recommendations for a replacement battery for a 2015 Legacy 2.5i? My 2010 ford focus is still running on the original battery, so is my 2011 bmw 328 ...and in canada we get -30 degree weather There is no reason at all that your battery needs replacement after 2-3 years, make sure you bring this up to the dealership and advise them its due to the ECU/Battery TSB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisvegas Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Also realize that the car manufacturer delivers the car with the cheapest battery they can get away with. I'm not sure that happens with the cars out of Japan, which is where all the Australian vehicles come from. Another poster stated " The dealer told me this morning that they would replace my 350 battery with a 550 amp model for free, since there was a bulletin to the effect that the 350 was "undersized". He doesn't state whether his vehicle is 2.5 or 3.6, but the specs for the factory fitted (Panasonic) battery in my 3.6 are ... CCA 630A RC 128 min Amp Hours 73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammcinnis Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 ... the specs for the factory fitted (Panasonic) battery in my 3.6 are ... CCA 630A RC 128 min Amp Hours 73 Those specs are much better than for the OE batteries, manufactured by Johnson Controls, fitted to U.S. built Legacys and Outbacks. From the 2015 FSM: 2.5: JIS type = 55D23R 48 AH 356 CCA 3.6: JIS type = 75D23R 52 AH 490 CCA It has been reported here that all MY 2018 Legacys and Outbacks now have the larger battery. "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimle1301 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 There is no reason at all that your battery needs replacement after 2-3 years, make sure you bring this up to the dealership and advise them its due to the ECU/Battery TSB Do you have a copy of the ECU/Battery TSB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisvegas Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Those specs are much better than for the OE batteries, manufactured by Johnson Controls, fitted to U.S. built Legacys and Outbacks. From the 2015 FSM: 2.5: JIS type = 55D23R 48 AH 356 CCA 3.6: JIS type = 75D23R 52 AH 490 CCA It has been reported here that all MY 2018 Legacys and Outbacks now have the larger battery. My battery is JIS type = 95D26R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 I'm not sure that happens with the cars out of Japan, which is where all the Australian vehicles come from. Another poster stated " The dealer told me this morning that they would replace my 350 battery with a 550 amp model for free, since there was a bulletin to the effect that the 350 was "undersized". He doesn't state whether his vehicle is 2.5 or 3.6, but the specs for the factory fitted (Panasonic) battery in my 3.6 are ... CCA 630A RC 128 min Amp Hours 73 About the same as I have in my 2.5i Outback. And that's the OEM battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rec630 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Those specs are much better than for the OE batteries, manufactured by Johnson Controls, fitted to U.S. built Legacys and Outbacks. From the 2015 FSM: 2.5: JIS type = 55D23R 48 AH 356 CCA 3.6: JIS type = 75D23R 52 AH 490 CCA It has been reported here that all MY 2018 Legacys and Outbacks now have the larger battery. Remembered to check the battery today and my 2018 3.6R I took delivery of in December is still the 490 CCA as reported above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleiades 3.6R Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Factory battery is group size 25, I'm replacing mine with a DieHard Gold in group size 34. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimle1301 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 The dealer told me this morning that they would replace my 350 battery with a 550 amp model for free, since there was a bulletin to the effect that the 350 was "undersized". My battery tested ok, but I had mentioned that I needed a jump start recently for no apparent reason. Does anybody have this bulletin? I'm bringing mine in next week for service and would like to have mine swapped since I've had this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 Same here. I got mine done a month or so ago. I didn't have a dead battery, but had them do it anyway so I don't end up with a dead one when its in the single digits.. I haven't checked at the terminal yet, but what is reported by the dash cam 14.2/12.4 (running/off) is pretty much the same (but that is wired off the inside fuse box. so may be due to some drop across the electronics). Will test in a few weeks and let you know. So after I left the car in the garage for 5 days, the voltage at the battery terminals came up at 11.86V (which is pretty much what I have seen before the update) The car cranked up fine. I think the resting voltage of the battery is 11.8. Coz even when I had checked after highway driving of an hour, a few minutes after I turn off the engine it drops back to 11.86. I'll get it back to the same auto zone guy and have him run his thing again and see what he says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 if your battery voltage is below 12V you need to have the charging system inspected. The ECM controls the alternator via pulsing it on and off dependent upon load... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 if your battery voltage is below 12V you need to have the charging system inspected. The ECM controls the alternator via pulsing it on and off dependent upon load... Hmmm. Every time I had the dealer check, they gave the clean slate that everything was working as expected. And that's two different dealers that checked.. You may be right, but I haven't yet had the car not start (even on bitterly cold negative Fahrenheit mornings) since I've had it. I don't know how far I want to go digging down this hole, esp since I'm out of the standard warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hmmm. Every time I had the dealer check, they gave the clean slate that everything was working as expected. And that's two different dealers that checked.. You may be right, but I haven't yet had the car not start (even on bitterly cold negative Fahrenheit mornings) since I've had it. I don't know how far I want to go digging down this hole, esp since I'm out of the standard warranty. This is all based on the voltage reading from your dashcam? Use a proper digital multimeter and check open-circuit voltage at the terminals. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 This is all based on the voltage reading from your dashcam? Nope. The last one I posted is with a digital multimeter at the battery terminal. Key fob was far away from the car, so nothing was running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 I went back to the autozone guy to hook up the tester and this time it showed the battery was 99% charged and was reading 12.86v So I guess it dropped a full volt after sitting idle for 5 days, but it still cranked. May be it's a sign of an ageing battery and it won't crank if I leave it garaged for a couple of weeks. That won't happen in the short term. At the time that it dies after being left for a couple of days, its time for an upgrade; till then stock it is. bottom line, the tsb update that was applied seems to have fixed the %charge and the battery is now being charged to its capacity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Did you check the voltage as the Autozone guy checked, to compare readings? If the battery is down that low and still cranking over normally, then something is wrong with your measurement technique. Something is on (lights, evap pump, something.) 11.0VDC resting (or 11.86VDC after running and then shutting down) is essentially a fully depleted battery (i.e., < 20% SOC). It is not possible that your engine cranked, "...cranked up fine." I've experienced slow starts with 50% depleted batteries (~12.2VDC +/- 0.1VDC). In my experience, the voltage you claim is what I've seen while being able to power the interior lights, but only get clicks when attempting to start. So, how exactly are you checking the voltage and have you used your DMM to check a known voltage, such as someone else's battery, or your battery while running? Did I miss it or have you not yet checked the level of electrolyte in the battery? Are you able to check the specific gravity of the electrolyte? '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Did you check the voltage as the Autozone guy checked, to compare readings? Did I miss it or have you not yet checked the level of electrolyte in the battery? Are you able to check the specific gravity of the electrolyte? Well, almost. Mine is a simple DMM vs the auto zone guys battery testing equipment. It reads accurately when I test regular 1.5V AA and AAAs. Nothing was ON. All lights off and the key was away from the car. Nothing I could flip a switch and turn off. I thought all modern batteries are fully sealed units and there is no electrolyte to check or add. Is that not the case with these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oltzer Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 I had an issue with my oe battery dieing and figured it was bad since it seemed low end so I swapped it with a new Bosch group 25 agm back in October but the car was just dead the other day and had to jump start so I ended up going back to pep boys and swapped for the size 34 Part #: 34-770BAGM since they didn’t have 25 and it fit fine and was rated higher too. I also went to the dealer yesterday and they did a ECM software update for Battery drain so hopefully good now but I think the Bosch battery is a good deal with online coupons and 4 year free replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WILLINH Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Has anyone bought a battery from Sams club? They carry Duracell and have $20 off right now, I was going to get a size 34 for my legacy. I don't trust the original as I have had 1 jump start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securityguy Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 I like Interstate batteries. No experience with Sam's Club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNTransplant Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 I bought a Group 34 AGM Duracell and it’s been perfect - no problems for two years. I’ve also bought 2 regular Duracell Golds for family members around the same time, and there have been no issues. Duracell automotive batteries are made in the USA by East Penn, so they are good quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 Are you running the latest OE reflash that corrects the bad Alternator Duty Cycle ECU control logic? If not, do your new or somewhat new batteries a favor and update (takes 5 minutes): http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5765631&postcount=24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNTransplant Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 Are you running the latest OE reflash that corrects the bad Alternator Duty Cycle ECU control logic? If not, do your new or somewhat new batteries a favor and update (takes 5 minutes): Thanks for the reminder. Closest dealer to me is one hour away, and I find it difficult to get over there for something like this. One of these days... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisvegas Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 Closest dealer to me is one hour away, and I find it difficult to get over there for something like this. Hi TNT, I gotta ask you ...."one hour away"??? ...... is the trip to the dealer through a minefield or a swamp A lot of people here in OZ drive more than an hour every day to work. I figured that U.S. being also a big country, that a one hour trip would be a breeze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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