Blackhawk2k7 Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Hey all! I've posted several questions and have had much success with you fine folks helping me out with solving my problems, and steering me in the right directions. THANK YOU! Figured its time for a personal thread that I can update (brag, JK) about what I am doing and have done to my car. I welcome any and all opinions and comments regarding the path I am choosing: History: My first Turbo AWD car was a '90 Eagle Talon TSi w/evo III 16g, frontmount, aluminum flywheel, stage II clutch. Unfortunately I wrecked that fun demon at 100mph, luckily I walked away and learned my lesson. Had it for 3.5 years before its destruction. Still miss that wild demon. Fast forward through years of trucks, NA cars, and streetbikes, I arrived at my 2005 LGT LTD SWP Sedan. Mods when I bought my LGT in February 2017: -Competition Clutch Stage II w/LWFW -Short shifter and shifter bushings -COBB AP V.3 w/Torqued Performance tune stage 1 by Eric -KNN Typhoon intake -Magnaflow Cat-back Also came with Kicker subs/amp, and a Parrot aftermarket mini unit MKi9200 Mods since owning it: -Poly tranny cradle mount bushings -Group-N engine, tranny and pitch stop mounts -Rear diff inserts -Cusco steering brace -Whiteline steering rack bushings -Aluminum lower control arms -Poly front swaybar bushings -Invidia Uppipe -Mishimoto turbo inlet -Perrin TMIC clone w/thermal coating(cannot find any info on it or who makes it looks exactly like a perrin) -GFB Respons BPV/BOV (100% recirc) -Aftermarket wheels -STi FPR tied to the BPV/BOV vacuum line -Mishimoto radiator larger than stock Parts in shipping: -AVO rear swaybar (adjustable 20mm) -AVO rear swaybar mount reinforcement -AVO front and rear swaybar endlinks (adjustable) Next parts I am buying: -Megan racing rear control arms and trailing arms -AVO front swaybar I am considering the front and rear bracing that AVO offers I am more interested in getting the handling down before I start putting more power to it. Looking at getting the KONI sport yellows and am unsure on springs, I would love an opinion for someone that wants to still use this as a DD At some point soon I will be putting up my future purchase list, and definitely need some opinions as to their performance and quality if I cannot find it in the forums. One thing I have noticed is that when searching the forums is that the info is sometimes very dated, and that vendors/manufacturers have since updated the design, or there are many new manufacturers/types/designs than there were years prior. If I cannot find any information on the forums I will keep my questions to this thread. Thank you very much for everything! -Blackhawk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I am told epic springs are as low as you want to go without buying a lot of adjustable suspension components for added geometry gains. I do like swift springs though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Thank you for your input my friend! I've heard you need kidney braces to ride swift springs lol, but I wonder how true that really is.. I really don't want to go THAT low, if anything I would like a medium drop. I've heard plenty about Epic's, didn't know that they rode that low! And what's the deal with searching Epic Engineering springs? I can't find a sales website! How do you feel about H&R? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 When I worked on my Audi H&R had a good reputation for "fair price, fair result." For an extra $80-$100 I'd just buy the Epics (that is my plan over the spring); supposedly paired with koni shocks they are pretty proper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 The Epics aren’t that low, it’s a good drop for a DD, maybe an inch front and back. The issue is they don’t make them anymore, you’d need to find a set on the used market. The last group buy was a few years ago and I’m pretty sure there hasn’t been any made since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Dang, wish I had my car back then.. Besides Epics, anything else *highly suggested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I guess the pickle becomes what kind of roads you drive on, and how low you want to go (specifically height, do you want 0.5", 1", 1.5", etc... for a DD I would say 0.8-1.25", but then again, I have not lowered mine yet, just what I've learned), and do you want to buy more than just shocks and springs to correct geometry? Edit: incorrect info stating big Front sway bar and slightly smaller rear sway bar. See below post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 A big front sway and a small rear will promote understeer. I don’t think I’d go will a smaller rear at all. In fact, I’d probably start with a 20mm rsb and go from there. The legacy isn’t a tall car to begin with. Lowering an inch or two is reasonable, anything lower than that becomes combersome to drive. STi pinks are popular and so are the H&R’s for springs. The are many different versions of the pinks, the set I had was too stiff for my liking. If I were in your position I’d look at the H&R’s and really, being in WA, you might want to seriously consider quality coilovers and skip a lot of the other mods you had listed in your first post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I'm most likely wrong on this, but I thought the intent was to allow the rear to come around; essentially, you want the front to stay flat, and the rear to float/roll slightly. This would allow a momentum to occur over the chassis in the rear allowing it to swing out and due to torque among the subframe this would force the outer front tire (outer in regards to the inside of the corner) to have a higher force on it and dig better. Atleast in autoX (I thought), high speed cornering I would believe is different, wanting more even force distribution Edit: my above statement is wrong in this post In the really basic way of looking at it: Add stiffer front sway bar only, decreases grip at the front end resulting in more understeer. Add stiffer rear sway bar only, decreases grip at the rear end resulting in more oversteer. But you don't want to go too extreme... This is a tough question. I am going to do my best to explain as I have been taught. By adding a stiffer bar, you are decreasing the steady state grip, but increasing overall cornering ability by decreasing body roll. If keep the proportions the same as stock...but add stiffness to both front and rear...the oversteer and understeer characteristics will be the same...but with less body roll and normally with higher g's. If you add stiffness to just the rear...you will get more oversteer. The way I look at it...add stiffness to both front and rear, but just a tad more to the rear and you should have a nice neutral car. Damn, now you got me in a searching spree.... 1. Add a front sway bar and you may lose a little grip from increase weight transfer at that end of the car. However, the reduction in roll/camber loss USUALLY makes up for it, and unless you go too big, you'll have a net increase in front grip. 2. For the rear, the shift towards oversteer is more a function of increased front grip due to the change in where the weight transfer occurs. Decreased weight transfer up front improves grip as you have more even tire loads. Again, the increase in weight transfer at the rear competes with the reduced roll/camber loss and you USUALLY end up with a net increase in grip. - Andrew This FAQ/shtickie has a lot more info and proper than what I gave falsely.. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swaybar-faq-134646.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I'm 33 and daily drive 70 miles. I'm dropped on Konis and H&R springs and it's great. It's about a 1.5 inch drop. I do not have a roll center kit yet, but it is on my short list. The upgraded struts have decreased roll enough that I don't feel obligated to mess with my sway bars, but if I did, I'd put a 20mm on the rear and be done with it. No need to mess with the front. The reason I point out my age is that some of the younger fellas drop their cars on B&C $700 coilovers and say it rides nice. I'm older, I have my fair share of back problems, and I don't need the type of ride stiffness that should be reserved for track use only. It is so easy to ruin a car's suspension by over modding it. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Have to agree about stock sway bars, my wagon with Epic's and Koni's corners flat with stock sway bars. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 I am loving all this feedback thank you! All- The 20mm RSB is already on its way, as with the RSB mount reinforcement, and adjustable front and rear endlinks. I do not want coilovers, I know that they are proper for many applications. But I've never experienced a car with coilovers that I enjoyed, even with properly corner-balanced and dampened cars, I did not enjoy any of the noise and harshness. My back is part of that issue... That said, I was eyeing the Tein Flex-z with the controller/motors for a while, and did like the idea of its potential, however I've decided against that. Dishwasher- I am right there with you, minus probably a few years, I've recently hurt my back on the job and concur with the stiff "track-like" ride. I want it to ride tight, but not harsh. I'll forgo getting the front sway bar for the time being until I get the springs/struts to see if I enjoy the "feel" Wasted Potential: I love your statements and retorts to yourself, genuinely laughed out loud! I appreciate the digging you did!! I have listed the Megan racing rear control and trailing arms as the adjustment for the rear when I get new springs in it. Happened upon them and have seen a couple reviews saying they are comparable to the Whiteline version, but cheaper and just as effective. Holla: The 20mm is on its way, I agree I do want oversteer as opposed to understeer. What version of H&R's do you conclude to be the "best" with the Koni's for BL's? I would love the pinks but seems like a hassle to source the proper ones... I would love a small drop.. maybe a max of 1.5", I still have questionable terrain to traverse at times and don't want to scrape anything Max: I would love to find Epics, but damn are they hard to find, I will definitely heed your advice on the swaybars and take my upcoming experience with a grain of salt.. Thank you all very much for your insight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 H&R 54425 Sport Spring is what I have. Perfect fitment for my 06 LGT. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 H&R 54425 Sport Spring is what I have. Perfect fitment for my 06 LGT. Pulled the trigger and got a set for $120 shipped (amazon used) so if they are just crap I can send them back. An engineer-friend where I work used to be a spring-engineer at a heavy spring factory. He gave me the thumbs up to 'send-it'. Amazon specified them to be Used-Good, so I bet theres some wear and tear, but most likely just paint chipped. We shall see... What kind of top-hats are you running? I would like to get an adjustable type, but am completely unsure what to look for. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 I bought a new set of OEM. I figured they were good enough for the last 100k miles, they're good enough for the next. Whiteline does make adjustable top hats, they are pricey, and probably overkill for a daily driver setup. Here's what my suspension setup looks like: KONI Yellows H&R Springs Moog front and rear endlinks Whiteline Lower control arm front and rear bushings (the ones with the added caster) Enkei BR7 - 17x7.5 Wheels +38 offset Continental DW 225/45/17 Whiteline rear camber adjustment bushing KCA399 Whiteline steering rack bushings Stock new tophats replaced with the Konis. And I want to add the whiteline roll center kit, and probably some new bushings on the rear end as well as they're old and worn out. I'll add that I don't have to do much creative driving to avoid bumps on the road (I still try to avoid potholes). I haven't bottomed out the car in the few months that I've had this set up, and the roads here aren't great. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Thanks dishwasher! Sounds like I'm on the right path. Now onto some of my stumbling and stuttering. I know there's a whole thread dedicated to this and I've definitely scoured it. I have a stumble at 2100-2300rpm where it feels like it's missing, and when accelerating from a stop ,sometimes it likes to surge when I barely tap the gas. I've done the STi FPR swap, turkeylord barbed tee, switched the FPR vacuum line to the BOV vacuum line with a barbed tee too, replaced the turbo inlet as well as replace all the vacuum lines with new ones, new spark plugs, but it still exists. My next steps are OCV'S, fuel pump, fuel filter, and maybe new coil packs. I feel like it might be directly fuel related, or I may have to get a new MAF. SO much I can spend money on and still not figure out the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Thanks dishwasher! Sounds like I'm on the right path. Now onto some of my stumbling and stuttering. I know there's a whole thread dedicated to this and I've definitely scoured it. I have a stumble at 2100-2300rpm where it feels like it's missing, and when accelerating from a stop ,sometimes it likes to surge when I barely tap the gas. I've done the STi FPR swap, turkeylord barbed tee, switched the FPR vacuum line to the BOV vacuum line with a barbed tee too, replaced the turbo inlet as well as replace all the vacuum lines with new ones, new spark plugs, but it still exists. My next steps are OCV'S, fuel pump, fuel filter, and maybe new coil packs. I feel like it might be directly fuel related, or I may have to get a new MAF. SO much I can spend money on and still not figure out the problem Have you talked to your Tuner about the stumble ? Mine was able to remove it from my wagon in the tune. The Spec still has it ever so slightly even with the signal hose moved to the blow off valve. tuningalliance@gmail.com see if Mike can help with your MAP. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 Have you talked to your Tuner about the stumble ? Mine was able to remove it from my wagon in the tune. The Spec still has it ever so slightly even with the signal hose moved to the blow off valve. tuningalliance@gmail.com see if Mike can help with your MAP. Thanks for the idea brotha! I'll try to have them suss it out if they can. I personally didn't do the E-tune, it was the P.O. and I've since done the uppipe and turbo inlet. I wanted to get my downpipe and maybe ebcs before I started the process. Tax return! *fingers crossed* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 Stumble aside, I have a problem I want to tackle. Previous owner installed a competition clutch stage 2+ kit w/lwfw. It makes a gut wrenching horrible sound on deceleration. Sounds like: https://youtu.be/flm5ezmZZ6o But more rattle than grinding, like the prop shaft is bouncing off stuff. I am already in the market for the WRX SMFW, and south bend clutch. Is this just the clutch and lwfw? Or am I verging on bad center diff territory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 May want to consider a tsk3 kit. TOB's on these cars are known to go to shit. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Absolutely! I've been preaching that same TOB to everyone I meet. Oddly had someone say: "..yeah just use the one that comes in the kit, I heard the slide comes off after 10k.." Everybody proceeded to absolutely flame him for that comment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1G_xyz Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Does your TMIC look like this? I just got my 06 about 3 months ago and always thought that it didn't look stock lol Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 Omg yes.. That's it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 Much news since last updating: My buddy with a 2007 STi full bolt on is selling me his EJ257 shortblock. Both of us are unsure whether or not the internals have been beefed up. He scoped it and *thought* He saw a crack on #4 piston, he has had compression issues in the cylinder, so that would explain it. If I buy it I plan on doing a slow but complete build, and when the time comes, porting my EJ255 heads to mate up as well. Now back to the EJ255, finally got that money back from the government, and promptly bought Koni's to complement my H&R springs. I also purchased: -MRS-SU-0521 (Megan racing control arms) -MRS-SU-0520 (Megan racing trailing arms) -W63394 (control arm bushings) -W0506 (front control arm bushings) -KDT905 (rear diff support bushings) -KCA334 (adjustable control arm bushings) -KCA313 (roll center kit) My suspension should be 100% dialed in after this. I'll be getting ELH and a downpipe after this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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