please help : problrm in legacy 2010

[GTEASER]

I already change timing belt today and still same issue

 

Did you make absolutely certain that all the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets were aligned correctly? Pics?

[kalabala2005]

Yes all markes are right and car running very good in idle

[ehsnils]

Have you checked that the air intake don't have any obstruction - like a rag or dead squirrel?

[kalabala2005]

No i dont know how to check it

[kalabala2005]

Any help please

[ehsnils]

No i dont know how to check it

Open the air filter box and take a look. Even check so that the plastic bag around the air filter was removed when it was installed.

 

Otherwise look up someone local used to work on engines and problems like these to have them take a look.

[kalabala2005]

Air Filter box is OK ; i think problem is electric issue because when push gas pedal car no respond and stuck on 2k but on cruise i push add its go smoothly to 2.5 or 3 k and car not heavy ; so how to check car electric ?

[kalabala2005]

is it can be gas pedal sensor ??

[kalabala2005]

Any advice

[FLlegacy]

Your second log looks like the AFR is reading lean while the rear is reading rich, I would gamble the front AF sensor/02 sensor is bad. But its your money, personally I would take it to a shop, but if you don't have one to take it to, kind of stuck. I don't know enough to comment on the MAF voltage or flow readings, but you are definitely getting knock and again I don't see throttle input so hard to say what is going on with the throttle position. It is hard to say over the computer what may be happening, you really need someone to look at it. There are so many possibilities.

 

What happened before this issue came up?

 

Here is the datalog in an easier to read format.

 

You might also check how hot your catalytic converter is getting, it appears at higher rpm the afr is leaning along with the rear sensor

kalabala datalog.csv

[kalabala2005]

Your second log looks like the AFR is reading lean while the rear is reading rich, I would gamble the front AF sensor/02 sensor is bad. But its your money, personally I would take it to a shop, but if you don't have one to take it to, kind of stuck. I don't know enough to comment on the MAF voltage or flow readings, but you are definitely getting knock and again I don't see throttle input so hard to say what is going on with the throttle position. It is hard to say over the computer what may be happening, you really need someone to look at it. There are so many possibilities.

 

What happened before this issue came up?

 

Here is the datalog in an easier to read format.

 

You might also check how hot your catalytic converter is getting, it appears at higher rpm the afr is leaning along with the rear sensor

 

Thanks for your answer can i test by disconnect electric connector of front o2 sensor or i must test with another one .

[cww516]

You can check resistance across pins 3 and 4 on the front O2 sensor connector (they're the ones furthest from the locking clip), looks like you should see 2.4 ohms +/- 0.24 at 68*F (20*C). Not sure how that value changes as it heats up, but if you see 0 ohms, that's bad, and if you see either very high resistance or an open circuit, that's bad too.

[kalabala2005]

colleagues whats mean IAM (multiplier) is 0 ??

second friend say it fuel pressure issue (how to test it ).

[kalabala2005]

Fuel pressure?

 

how to check that

[FLlegacy]

how to check that

 

https://goo.gl/images/GEymtT

[Becks1818]

Just change the front O2 and go from there..

 

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[FLlegacy]

Can you log fuel pump duty cycle?

[kalabala2005]

I changed fuel pump and front o2 and same problem in car ..IAM is 0 and car begain running so poor

Subaru dealer Service center say that my problem in head clinders issues as my car running now 295k that make car knoking and ecu try to reduce electric to engine because of knoking and he say that car running without any performance now and its in safe mode as IAM is 0 and it must be 1 .. is this possible ...what your opinions

[FLlegacy]

I changed fuel pump and front o2 and same problem in car ..IAM is 0 and car begain running so poor

Subaru dealer Service center say that my problem in head clinders issues as my car running now 295k that make car knoking and ecu try to reduce electric to engine because of knoking and he say that car running without any performance now and its in safe mode as IAM is 0 and it must be 1 .. is this possible ...what your opinions

Yep entirely possible.

 

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[kalabala2005]

colleagues share us . your opinions

[Shadow_419]

If your iam drops to 0 you are experiencing lots of knock and that's why the timing gets pulled so much. Are you sure the fuel you're using is good? The timing is correct? You said that the cylinders are holding compression so the heads mechanically should be ok as well as the piston rings. It's definitely something above my minimum understanding of the engine.

[kalabala2005]

colleges when i reset ecu car IAM is .50 and then after i monitor FLKC once car knocking car begin run so boor because ecu detect knocking and try to safe engine by decrease timing ?? can u advice me why my car knocking ?

 

 

 

some info ; after i reset ecu car run perfect till ecu detect knocking

Subaru dealer need to open engine ( and say we don't know what is error and we need open engine to see ????)

car running now 295k

spark plugs changed

timing belt changed with new one

all service done

fuel pressure is OK from 3 to 4 bar

car compression test is 170 for all cylinders

 

all service done for Transmission (oil change and filter replace )

 

please need your experts opinion colleagues

[kalabala2005]

Your second log looks like the AFR is reading lean while the rear is reading rich, I would gamble the front AF sensor/02 sensor is bad. But its your money, personally I would take it to a shop, but if you don't have one to take it to, kind of stuck. I don't know enough to comment on the MAF voltage or flow readings, but you are definitely getting knock and again I don't see throttle input so hard to say what is going on with the throttle position. It is hard to say over the computer what may be happening, you really need someone to look at it. There are so many possibilities.

 

What happened before this issue came up?

 

Here is the datalog in an easier to read format.

 

You might also check how hot your catalytic converter is getting, it appears at higher rpm the afr is leaning along with the rear sensor

 

i fix rich issue i found the problem that was leak on some air Hose

so there was alot of air and maf not detect it

i change the Hose and now all numbers from log is ok check below new log

 

but i need ask u one question do u know how to fix ecu detect knocking ??

[FLlegacy]

i fix rich issue i found the problem that was leak on some air Hose

so there was alot of air and maf not detect it

i change the Hose and now all numbers from log is ok check below new log

 

but i need ask u one question do u know how to fix ecu detect knocking ??

There isn't much more to do but open up the engine and see what the damage is.

 

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[cww516]

Have you reset the ECU since you fixed your vacuum leak? It'd make sense that the engine would knock when you reset the ECU before you fixed the leak, since it would be running lean until it learned that it had to add more fuel. Fixing the leak could solve your problem, so I'd say reset the ECU again and watch IAM and FLKC. If you're still seeing knock after that, it'd be worth smoke-testing the intake tract, just to make sure you don't have any other leaks. With that many km on the car, it's certainly possible that more hoses need to be replaced, and that's way easier than pulling the engine.