bergs Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 Haven't gotten back to the car yet but I can't get this off my mind today, between the difficulty in sourcing a replacement actuator as well as not knowing right now what the source of the failure is. What is it about the sleeve bearing that causes the wastegate to bind? Does this suggest a cracked housing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 You can get actuators on ebay. But honestly just post a WTB thread, people with dead VF40's should be able to sell you one, I think $30-40 for used one sounds about right price wise. As for what causes to bind, probably cracks in the bearing around the gate's shaft. The one I had issues with was a brand new housing, but it might have been dropped or hit. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Did you remove the arm and verify the wastegate opens and closes smoothly? If it does, get an actuator. If it does not, you need the hot side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 Survey says? Wastegate is fooyucked! That crunching sound I heard isn't from the actuator. Crazy! Next question is, replace hot side or entire turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 Turbo. It's easier and you know the condition when you install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 If you want to keep things stock, a take-off VF46 from the later Legacy GT models should be compatible, you need to use your existing VF40 restrictor pill. Then again, didn't you say something about a VF52 on a shelf? Max Capacity has been running one on stock fueling for quite a while, though he is leaving some power on the table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 The 52 is going into my 2008 once I build the engine (which has been a fiasco on its own). Not that I "want" to keep this car stock but it's a car I'm selling and I've put quite a bit of money into it already. It's less painful now that I've had it on the road but, dang, this new failure was unexpected to say the least. I'm going to look closer at what's in my 2008 this weekend. I could have sworn it was labeled a VF45 but that could easily be misread. Regardless, I may already have a replacement sitting in my driveway. Just gotta pop the hood! Too bad about this turbo. Hardly any shaft play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 I would replace the hot side, it shouldn't be too hard, and you don't have to remove the whole turbo, you just have to remove the downipe and undo the 3 bolts, then undo the clamp that holds CHRA to exhaust housing I have one or two exhaust housings from dead VF40's, I'll sell you one if they are not chewed up Then again, didn't you say something about a VF52 on a shelf? Max Capacity has been running one on stock fueling for quite a while, though he is leaving some power on the table. If you keep the boost levels reasonable you'll be fine with stock fueling. I'm running a EVOIII 16g (slightly bigger then VF52) and I'm not even at 90% IDC at ~260whp on 13psi. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 Let me know. I'm not averse to changing a housing. In the mean time I'm going to see if I can get this thing to loosen up a bit or at least find what that crunching noise is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 So the WG is now freed up but it's not quite 100% yet. The actuator spring isn't heavy enough to close it all the way but at least there's a response now from the engine when I dig into the gas pedal. The DP will have to come off as I am thinking the flapper is misaligned and making contact with the housing....hence the crunching I hear every once in a while when moving it by hand. Boost tapped out at 13.3 in between 2nd and 3rd gear on AP stage 1 map and otherwise hangs between 11 and 12 in gears 1-3. A code popped up for AVCS control A (too much advance) shortly after a 2nd to 3rd pull. Unfortunately I wasn't logging at the time so I reset the ECU and will see what happens. There weren't any CEL's prior to working on the WG so I'm wondering if the ECU needs to relearn some parameters now that there's boost.....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 Before you waste time removing the DP, there is a sleeve around the wastegate arm that breaks free. You will need the hotside at a minimum. GL! Just trying to save you labor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 AVCS related code sounds like bad OCV's, just can't catch a break . Drive around while showing both AVCS advance degrees and if it's jumping from 0-50 constantly, it's bad (you can verify by swapping them spaces and seeing if the hunting goes to the other side). 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 Marck - I resigned to the fact that the turbo is coming out. I'm almost certain this car still has banjo bolt filters and if I'm already going that far with it, might as well pull the turbo. The AVCS code showed up only the one time. I've driven it about 300 miles since the code first popped up. I did start watching the AVCS advance for both banks and they stayed at zero. What I really need to do is perform the repairs to the turbo then worry about all this other stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Concern about AVCS code is if banjo filters are clogging, what are they clogging with? Hopefully, this is just coincidence and bad luck and not related to the turbo. Sounds like you are going to find out for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 That's what i would have done. GL let me know if i can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 The passenger side AVCS feeds from the same oil line as the turbo, so if AVCS is having issues on that side, then it could be related. Concern about AVCS code is if banjo filters are clogging, what are they clogging with? Hopefully, this is just coincidence and bad luck and not related to the turbo. Sounds like you are going to find out for sure. Usually they will clog from oil sludge, but after first turbo failure they will clog with metal shavings from the turbo (hello oil filter doing nothing) 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 P0011 is here to stay. Based on information from threads posted here I wonder, is the oil control valve still a consideration when correcting this issue? FWIW, I know I said the values were zero but I was wrong. AVCS bank 1 advance moves all over the place between 0 and 43 depending on throttle input. Bank 2 seems to be generally steady between 0 and 9. Car's parked now either way until I sort out the housing and banjo filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Swap OCV's from Bank 1 to Bank 2, if AVCS starts jumping around on bank 2, then you need new oil control valves. Do these have a shelf life or something? Mine failed recently, and I've been seeing more OCV failures in general 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 I can swap positions of the valves easy enough but would a resistance measurement save on the work of moving the sensors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I can swap positions of the valves easy enough but would a resistance measurement save on the work of moving the sensors?The problem could be mechanical, that is the valve is sticking with dirt or sludge. You can clean them with carb cleaner and test them with a 9V battery to see if they are moving through their full range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Ah. Gotcha. Is polarity a factor with these valves? Also, apologies to covertrussian. I missed your first mention of the OCV's a few posts back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 The problem with OCV's is the plunger starts sticking, or it just starts moving on it's on. ECU will tell it one thing but it will do something else. Mine didn't even throw a code, I just saw it going from 0-50* as I was driving on the freeway (luckily had my laptop to spot that). 50* of AVCS advance, if it's actually happening, is very bad, stock it's not supposed to go about 25* on 05-06's, 07's do go to 40*, even then with that much advance detonation becomes a big issue. Reason I'm telling you to swap OCV's, because they are the easiest to do. If the problem stays on the same head, then it's either the actual AVCS cam gear or the cam sensor. Both are much more painful to get to. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted November 6, 2017 Author Share Posted November 6, 2017 OCV's cleaned and swapped. Didn't look sludgy to me and both moved freely through their stroke. Looking forward to seeing what more miles brings. Car's been mostly parked as I have been locating a hotside housing and now a fuel pump flange/ housing. I discovered a stress crack in the top part of the housing and fuel was getting by the gasket when the tank was full. Broken....it's what makes a Subaru a Subaru. And I couldn't care less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 My OCV's were not stuck, freely moving too, I think the motor in them (or is it magnets?) that wears out and causes the plunger to be kind of delayed. My theory is: ECU would tell it go to 10* advance, not happening so it tells it go to 20*, once again nothing is happening so it does this until 50* or so when the plunger finally cause the cam to rotate. There was another person who mentioned the cracked housing too, I've been smelling some fuel on my retrofit housing, wonder if it cracked too. I guess it's nice that my 2012 2.5i Outback's fuel filter IS the top housing, so both get replaced at once for $90. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 I'd go with "magnetic" but I'm curious how they are controlled with regards to managing the oil flow. I've only known valves of a similar style to be open or closed, no voltage control other than "on" or "off". Fuel pump parts are on the way (thank you freaksavior) and I am still working on a hotside......or a blown VF40 altogether. All this for a car I'm selling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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