Rev9 FMIC Install

[Sarang]

What's in the box?

-(7) pre-bent 2.5" aluminum tubes allowing the kit to be installed on the WRX or the STI

-(7) 2.5" silicone couplers, blue

-(1) 2.5"x2.75" silicone reducing coupler, blue

-(2) 2.5"x2" silicone 90 degree reducing elbows, blue

-(1) 2.5" silicone 90 degree elbow, blue

-(18) T bolt clamps

-Intercooler

-crash bar/intercooler support

-(4) bolts w/ (4) nuts and (4) washers for intercooler support

-2" compressor outlet flange

 

 

 

Step 1:

Uninstall car battery & battery tray, TMIC, driver's side TMIC support bracket, charge pipe, BPV, passenger side radiator fan assembly, front bumper, and that black plastic piece that air through the lower bumper opening to the radiator.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11881

 

Step 2:

Bend down the frame seam edge with a hammer. Yes, really. It's going to seem like you're killing your car but this is really part of it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11882

There's also a sensor that you need to move out of the way:

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11883

 

Step 3:

Bolt the intercooler to the support bar. Notice that only one of the bolt holes line up at a time. Slot the other holes and decide that 3/4 is not bad

 

Step 4:

Uninstall the bumper beam by removing (4) 12mm bolts holding it on. Save the bolts!

 

Step 5:

Try to install the intercooler, realize that it needs to be farther forward and rebolt it to the support using only the two forward most attachment points. You'll be using six of those 12mm bolts to bolt the crash bar on.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11884

Now we're cookin', that looks cool.

 

Step 6:

Starting on the cold side, loosely connect your pipes starting with the 2.75"x2.5" coupler on the throttle body and the pipe with the WRX style BPV flange:

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11889

I ended up passing the pipe through the 3 fuel lines so that it went right next to the battery. I'm not sure if it will be exactly the same for everyone.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11893

add the U pipe connected by a coupler to the intercooler and poking through next to the neck of the windshield washer fluid:

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11885

Now test fit the third pipe for that side. It's the one that makes two 45 degree bends and is way longer on one end than you need it to be:

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11886

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11887

 

Step 7:

This next bit I don't have a photo for.

Put a 2.5" 90 degree elbow on the end of the U pipe and push on the pipe with the two 45s. you'll notice that if only that pipe was a few inches shorter next to the batter it would fit. Cut off those few inches. Now it fits.

 

Step 8:

Attach the RacerX pipe that Gteaser sent you to the compressor outlet of the turbo. Put a 2.5"x2" 90 degree reducing elbow on the end and start thinking about your options... You're gunna have to make some cuts.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11890

I'm not sure what would be the best option for those without the RacerX pipe. Maybe use the included compressor outlet flange and use some 2" aluminum pipe and silicone fittings?

 

Step 9:

The pipe I chose to cut here had two bends on one end, then an acute angle on the other. I attached it and cut so that it would work with a 90 degree coupler and a joiner, then I cut the joiner out of the remaining pipe.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11892

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11891

Now you have continuous pipe from the turbo to the throttle body! Tighten all the clamps down and make sure you can fit the battery back in there.

 

Step 10:

Install your BPV. I have a GFB piece, but my way will work with the stock valve too. I used a BPV adapter from KSTech to adapt the WRX flange into a 1.25" nipple. Then I attached a 1.25" silicone 90, my BPV, and a length of 1.25" silicone heater hose. The hose is much larger than I really need, but it's cheaper than buying adapters and going smaller. I'll secure it with a cushion clamp or two here soon.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2612&pictureid=11880

[Sarang]

Reserved

 

Other threads to note:

 

TurboXS FMIC install:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-legacy-fmic-fitment-install-254936.html?t=254936&highlight=fmic+install

 

KSTech BOV adapter that I used:

Part #: KST-ADP-BOV-LGT/WRX

http://www.kstech.biz/subaru-stock-bov-adapter-for-fmic-2008-14-wrx-2005-09-legacy-gt/

 

Link to TurboXS install pdf:

http://turboxs.com/shop/attachment.php?id_attachment=147

[FLlegacy]

So over all would you recommend it?

 

And if the core was smaller would it fit better? Without bending that sheet metal end?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Sarang]

So over all would you recommend it?

 

And if the core was smaller would it fit better? Without bending that sheet metal end?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

I would recommend it with the caveat that it's not plug and play and you have to be willing to make the cuts and improvise where needed. I'm not sure everyone could or would want to slot holes and cut tubes.

 

The core would have to be more than 3 inches shorter to clear that bit. If you were going to buy this kit and a smaller core and wing it from there, I would wonder if it would be worth it to just go custom all around.

For what it's worth, you have to bend that on the wrx/sti too.

[Fabsx]

I would recommend it with the caveat that it's not plug and play and you have to be willing to make the cuts and improvise where needed. I'm not sure everyone could or would want to slot holes and cut tubes.

 

 

 

The core would have to be more than 3 inches shorter to clear that bit. If you were going to buy this kit and a smaller core and wing it from there, I would wonder if it would be worth it to just go custom all around.

 

For what it's worth, you have to bend that on the wrx/sti too.

 

 

 

I actually never bent or cut the tab behind the core. I simply cut some vacuum hose in half, and slipped it over the edged so it wasn’t rubbing metal to metal.

I ended up putting washers behind the fmic core support to make it sit flush versus it sticking out more in the bottom then the top.

1 Year later, I have yet to touch anything on the fmic or had a pipe slip off. Hairspray on couplings will be your friend [emoji6]

[Mrstacy]

What intake did you go with? Can you take a pic of the FMIC piping from the top passenger side?

[Sarang]

It's the stock box and snorkel. I can take another pic, probably tomorrow.

 

The pic with "step 8" has a close up.

[Mrstacy]

^ thanks.

 

1) What part number is this? KSTech to adapt the WRX flange into a 1.25" nipple.

 

2) What diameter hose fits best? length of 1.25" silicone heater hose. The hose is much larger than I really need...

[A_A_ron]

I would recommend it with the caveat that it's not plug and play and you have to be willing to make the cuts and improvise where needed. I'm not sure everyone could or would want to slot holes and cut tubes.

 

The core would have to be more than 3 inches shorter to clear that bit. If you were going to buy this kit and a smaller core and wing it from there, I would wonder if it would be worth it to just go custom all around.

For what it's worth, you have to bend that on the wrx/sti too.

 

Did you compare any pricing from this kit to the other options you mentioned?

[Sarang]

1) What part number is this? KSTech to adapt the WRX flange into a 1.25" nipple.

KST-ADP-BOV-LGT/WRX I'll add it to the post

 

2) What diameter hose fits best? length of 1.25" silicone heater hose. The hose is much larger than I really need...

The nipple on the KSTech adapter is 1.25", as is our BPV, and the nipple on the intake right before the turbo. I used 1.25" heater hose all the way because the fittings and adapters to neck down and then back up would have cost way more.

[Mrstacy]

did you need a new hose on the bov signal line or was it long enough to reach?

[cww516]

There's a decent chance it'd reach- that one comes out the back of the intake manifold, runs along to a hard line in the passenger's side of the engine, then jumps out into another house that runs through a couple clips and down to the stock location. It may be worth putting on a new length of vacuum line while you're in there, but you could just run straight from the manifold to the BPV, rather than having to run out to the front of the engine and back.

[JROBBS92]

I just want to confirm that this is the 08-14 wrx/sti FMIC part #ICK-044??

[Sarang]

I just want to confirm that this is the 08-14 wrx/sti FMIC part #ICK-044??

 

Correct.

[JROBBS92]

Another question for ya, I have the complete racer x charge pipe. Just wondering if it would be like fabsx install where the hot side lined up perfectly? Would you have any tips on the install? Like things you figured out along the way? I've went through your walk through countless times lol

Thanks for the help!

[Sarang]

I'm not sure how fabsx didn't have to make any cuts, but I'm jealous. I had to make cuts on both the hot and cold side. Nothing crazy, just used a reciprocating saw.

Just take your time and don't make the cuts until you're absolutely sure you have it right. It took me several different arrangements of the pipes before I settled on one and made the cuts.

You might want to have some extra clamps, I broke a couple.

And be prepared for it to take longer than you thought. I wanted to be done in a day, but I ended up finishing the next morning.

[JROBBS92]

Hopefully I get lucky for that side then! I mean the intercoolers look like they line up in the same place so I can only hope! Yeah it'll probably be a weekend job! Well I'm pulling the trigger today lol, found one for $400 so might as well.

[Sarang]

That was my thought process exactly lol

[JROBBS92]

I was just thinking to, did you have the complete racer x charge piping or only that one pipe for the compressor housing?

[Sarang]

I have just the one for the compressor housing.

 

When the charge pipes were first made, some were sent out welded at the wrong angle. Then they sent out corrected pieces. GTeaser sent me his 'incorrect' one. It sits closer to the engine, but works just fine.

[JROBBS92]

Kinda balls, drove an hour and a half to find out buddy had already sold it. Oh well can win them all I suppose! It's kinda weird I was comparing what yours came with and what the actually website says come with and they don't mention all those 90° couplers and reducers. Did you notice that too when you ordered it?

[Sarang]

Kinda balls, drove an hour and a half to find out buddy had already sold it. Oh well can win them all I suppose! It's kinda weird I was comparing what yours came with and what the actually website says come with and they don't mention all those 90° couplers and reducers. Did you notice that too when you ordered it?

 

Honestly, I got mine from Ebay and wasn't 100% sure exactly what I was getting. I was prepared to have to order some couplings or elbows. It doesn't even come with directions. I spent a long time trying to figure out how to make it work without cutting like fabsx but ended up just making cuts.