legacy_specB Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Has anyone determined the wear effects of a valve body modification? If the valve body is shifting harder and faster wouldn’t it in turn wear the transmission faster? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Faster firmer shifts is actually better when it comes to wear of the transmission components. Less time shifting means less slip between shifts. As mentioned if the shifts are firmer that means other components of the drivetrain will be absorbing the shock of the shifts. A simple way around this is reducing the throttle through the DBW tables a couple hundred rpm before redline so that at the moment of the shift the transmission is seeing less tq than usual thus making the shift faster, less slippage and less shock at the moment of the shift. Once the new gear is selected and full throttle is reapplied the shock seen by the transmission is considerably less and more gradual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Does the valve body mod apply to the manual mode or just full auto. I like having more control over the car in manual mode but I wanna be sure there won’t be that huge delay in response between shifting up and the actual shift. That’s the main reason I want this. I hate that it takes so long to manually shift Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Libacy GT Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 Does the valve body mod apply to the manual mode or just full auto. I like having more control over the car in manual mode but I wanna be sure there won’t be that huge delay in response between shifting up and the actual shift. That’s the main reason I want this. I hate that it takes so long to manually shift Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkBy Manual mode you mean the paddle shifts on the auto? Yes it will apply to that as well. Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy_specB Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Does the valve body mod apply to the manual mode or just full auto. I like having more control over the car in manual mode but I wanna be sure there won’t be that huge delay in response between shifting up and the actual shift. That’s the main reason I want this. I hate that it takes so long to manually shift Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The valvebody mod applies to every 'mode'. However, the valvebody sends different line pressures depending on what mode you drive in. Full auto uses a lower line pressure than sport mode or manual mode. This is why generally full auto mode is smoother. The delay in the shifts has nothing to do with the valvebody mod. This delay in manual mode is a software delay and there is no tuning around it as we cannot access the TCU to remove that delay. The best bet is to do a TCU reset and then drive the car how you would like the car to drive at all times in manual mode. That way the valvebody will relearn your driving style and shift to match that style when in sport mode. So for example from the factory the car will try to get in the highest gear possible as quickly as possible. Let's say that at 20% throttle the car shifts from 1st to 4th at 2000rpm for each shift. After the TCU reset put the car in manual mode take a long drive and shift every gear at 3000rpm. You will notice that when in full auto or sport mode the car will try to rev to 3000rpm every time before shifting and will even hold lower gears longer. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Libacy GT Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 The valvebody mod applies to every 'mode'. However, the valvebody sends different line pressures depending on what mode you drive in. Full auto uses a lower line pressure than sport mode or manual mode. This is why generally full auto mode is smoother. The delay in the shifts has nothing to do with the valvebody mod. This delay in manual mode is a software delay and there is no tuning around it as we cannot access the TCU to remove that delay. The best bet is to do a TCU reset and then drive the car how you would like the car to drive at all times in manual mode. That way the valvebody will relearn your driving style and shift to match that style when in sport mode. So for example from the factory the car will try to get in the highest gear possible as quickly as possible. Let's say that at 20% throttle the car shifts from 1st to 4th at 2000rpm for each shift. After the TCU reset put the car in manual mode take a long drive and shift every gear at 3000rpm. You will notice that when in full auto or sport mode the car will try to rev to 3000rpm every time before shifting and will even hold lower gears longer. Hope this helpsNice info , even with the above procedure I don't understand how resetting the tcu will stop the delay in shifts? Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Resetting the tcu did nothing for me. 2-3 shift didn’t bang for about 50 miles but then it went right back to being sloppy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy_specB Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Nice info , even with the above procedure I don't understand how resetting the tcu will stop the delay in shifts? Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk Resetting the TCU in addition to cutting throttle at redline will result in a faster shift. This in conjunction with the VB mod and raising line pressures through the ECU etc. This will only work when shifting at redline. Dont expect a 20ms shift tho.....as you would need access to the TCU programming for that.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Just don’t want 2 sec shifts. The paddles are pointless with how fast they shift. I wouldn’t call it sport mode at all. I’m gonna do the vb after my tune. Wanna get all my power set up first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy_specB Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 You can try some of the suggestions I mentioned right now and see if shifts get better at redline. What sort of power are you looking for? What mods etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 You can try some of the suggestions I mentioned right now and see if shifts get better at redline. What sort of power are you looking for? What mods etc. I already did stage 1 and 2 Cobb. Now I just did the fuel pump, new Intercooler, vf52, Sf Intake, and I’m swapping my aftermarket uppipe for an external wastegate. Not needed but I want the noise lol. Hopefully this should make a little more power. Add the VB next and this thing should be a blast to drive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy_specB Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 Ok. Sounds good. Have you done anything at all to the transmission so far? Do you know what power level you are at currently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 Ok. Sounds good. Have you done anything at all to the transmission so far? Do you know what power level you are at currently? No I haven’t touched the transmission yet. I have had the car for like 3 months maybe and have driven it like 300 miles lol. It hasn’t been on the dyno. Probably getting an etune there is one place like an hour away but they are very expensive supposedly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EatingInternet Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 As of last Friday I am a proud owner of a transgo modded valve body. Very impressed and happy with my purchase! Well worth the $230, feels nice and smooth when cruising around town but when you lay it down it grabs much much quicker. I think TCU is still learning as the shifts seem to be getting more reliably quick under open throttle, but overall I'm very happy and it wasn't as hard as it looked to install. No idea what my power numbers are but I have the Evo 3 16g with up pipe, downpipe, process west tmic clone, and a tune. I didn't have any slipping problems before and the tranny was quite clean inside for it's age (180k miles). Definitely getting a cooler now though as I replaced all my fluid 20k ago and it was already getting quite brown! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Libacy GT Posted September 5, 2019 Author Share Posted September 5, 2019 As of last Friday I am a proud owner of a transgo modded valve body. Very impressed and happy with my purchase! Well worth the $230, feels nice and smooth when cruising around town but when you lay it down it grabs much much quicker. I think TCU is still learning as the shifts seem to be getting more reliably quick under open throttle, but overall I'm very happy and it wasn't as hard as it looked to install. No idea what my power numbers are but I have the Evo 3 16g with up pipe, downpipe, process west tmic clone, and a tune. I didn't have any slipping problems before and the tranny was quite clean inside for it's age (180k miles). Definitely getting a cooler now though as I replaced all my fluid 20k ago and it was already getting quite brown!Nice one. Enjoy! Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy_specB Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 Update!! Took the car to the strip about a month ago and ran an 11.824 on street tire with tons of wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. Who says the 5eat cant hold power lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 Update!! Took the car to the strip about a month ago and ran an 11.824 on street tire with tons of wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. Who says the 5eat cant hold power lol Specs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackbeard Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Numbers man we need numbers, mph? Overall mods done? Hp/tq? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy_specB Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 (edited) Whoops! Sorry. Car has a fully built engine, ported heads, BW EFR 7670 turbo. Car made 501whp and 403wtq, but for the run we were around 470whp with a shot of nitrous to get it off the line in 1st up to 5500rpm. We installed a window switch that made sure that the nitrous was only spraying up to 5500rpm. Reason for this is the transmission would not shift if it was allowed to spray any higher. We also had to raise the rpm to around 8200 and limit throttle to 60% just before the shift to ensure that it shifts properly. Transmission has a Hexmods VB, solid center diff bushings and a new center diff that was cryo treated and shot peened before install. Clutch packs are Exedy clutches. We machined the Steels to allow us to pack more clutches in each clutch pack so for eg a clutch pack that usually has 5 clutches now has 9. This way we hold alot more tq. IPT high stall converter. IPT says it's a 4500 stall but I've never been able to stall it that high. Highest I've seen it go is about 3800. Everything else with the drive train is stock. Stock axles, driveshaft etc. As mentioned before the car ran 11.824 but the mph was wrong. Time slip showed 140mph but the track team said that it was higher than it actually was. Hope this helps. If you guys have any more questions just let me know. Edited March 24, 2020 by legacy_specB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourConfused Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 On 3/24/2020 at 9:06 AM, legacy_specB said: Whoops! Sorry. Car has a fully built engine, ported heads, BW EFR 7670 turbo. Car made 501whp and 403wtq, but for the run we were around 470whp with a shot of nitrous to get it off the line in 1st up to 5500rpm. We installed a window switch that made sure that the nitrous was only spraying up to 5500rpm. Reason for this is the transmission would not shift if it was allowed to spray any higher. We also had to raise the rpm to around 8200 and limit throttle to 60% just before the shift to ensure that it shifts properly. Transmission has a Hexmods VB, solid center diff bushings and a new center diff that was cryo treated and shot peened before install. Clutch packs are Exedy clutches. We machined the Steels to allow us to pack more clutches in each clutch pack so for eg a clutch pack that usually has 5 clutches now has 9. This way we hold alot more tq. IPT high stall converter. IPT says it's a 4500 stall but I've never been able to stall it that high. Highest I've seen it go is about 3800. Everything else with the drive train is stock. Stock axles, driveshaft etc. As mentioned before the car ran 11.824 but the mph was wrong. Time slip showed 140mph but the track team said that it was higher than it actually was. Hope this helps. If you guys have any more questions just let me know. Any longevity updates on your car and it's drivetrain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now