Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Target Pricing for 2018 Limited w/ Eyesight?


Recommended Posts

USAA car buying is showing $4800 off MSRP on a fully loaded 2017 3.6R. Thats fantastic. I paid $33.9K OTD for my 2016 two years ago. With a Maine state sales tax of 5.5% and the $30.1K for the car, you get to right around $32K after taxes and fees.

 

Good buy!

 

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4425/36397950570_86d22d345a_c.jpg' alt='36397950570_86d22d345a_c.jpg'>2018 Legacy by emanookian, on Flickr[/img]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The way things work up here, since I live in ME but bought the car in NH where there is no sales tax I wont have to pay sales tax until I register the car. In Maine, and probably in a lot of other places you only pay sales tax on the difference of the trade-in value to the new sales price. So as far as the dealership is concerned they got theirs and couldn't care less about the state of Maine, as it should be. Sales tax is one thing, almost every state has one so it is what it is. What gets me is the additional asinine excise tax.

Excise tax is a $% collected based on the manufactures suggested retail price not the actual price paid. The money grabbing state thinks its unfair that some people may be able to negotiate a better price so to even things out everyone should pay the max. And unlike sales tax which is paid once, excise tax is every year.

I've lived most of my life in new England, I'm sure its probably the same or maybe worse where you live, that doesn't mean I have to like it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
USAA car buying is showing $4800 off MSRP on a fully loaded 2017 3.6R. Thats fantastic. I paid $33.9K OTD for my 2016 two years ago. With a Maine state sales tax of 5.5% and the $30.1K for the car, you get to right around $32K after taxes and fees.

 

Good buy!

 

The '17 should be considered last years model, since the '18s are out. So I'm not sure that the pricing from USAA is something spectacular.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I bought my '16, the local dealer here in NH beat the USAA price by about a thousand dollars. They then wanted to charge me a $400 doc fee. I refused to pay it, got a BS answer (everybody pays it, do you want to stand in line at DMV, etc.). I told them I would stand in line for $400 and as it was a cash deal, the only paper work was the submission of the Certificate of Origin. I told them the doc fee was crazy and started to leave and they offered a 99 dollar fee instead which I accepted.

 

So, the point of the whole story is that regardless of whether you use a buying service like USAA (which I really like and did great using it for my Tacoma) or buy on your own you still have to be willing to negotiate and walk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use