Cookie Monster Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 My Outback that I bought a month ago seems kind of tired suspension wise. There's a lot of clunking going on in the front while driving on bumpy roads. I've already replaced the swaybar endlinks and steering rack bushings (Whiteline), but need to start looking at the bigger pieces since that didn't cure the clunking. Are there any all-in-one kits I can buy to redo all the bushings? I bought something similar for a previous car, so getting everything in one package would be useful. I also see a lot of caster correction and anti-lift bushings. Do I need any of those? I'm also seeing a lot of different bushing lengths for the same application so I'm not sure what to buy. My plan is to just remove all the arms and links, take them to a shop and get everything pushed out if I can't do it myself. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Whiteline control arm bushings from an 02 WRX and 96-99 GC chassis are direct fit, iirc. One bushing is just a slide on (the back one), the front one will need to be pressed in. If you're taking it to a shop and will have the control arm front bushing replaced, it might make sense to do the ball joint too. Whiteline 02 Impreza ones fit too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookie Monster Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Thanks! I will definitely be doing the ball joints as well. Do those not just screw into the control arm, or are they a press fit? I was kind of hoping that popping them out of the knuckle would be the hardest part of that job. Do I need any caster correction or anti lift bushings? Also, bad idea to grab some junkyard control arms so I don't have to have the car apart while trying to get things pressed in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 The ball joint is bolt in. There is a pinch bolt, but you have to remove it completely from the arm as it goes through a groove in the side of the ball joint so it can't come out without removing the bolt. Easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Do I need any caster correction or anti lift bushings? Also, bad idea to grab some junkyard control arms so I don't have to have the car apart while trying to get things pressed in? You won't need any caster correction or anti-lift bushings unless you're lowering the car way down. These are used to correct the suspension angles so that an alignment shop can get the suspension within spec when you lower it. Junkyard control arms aren't a bad idea, but you'll still probably want to plan to take it for an alignment right after you install them if you want to save your tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookie Monster Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 You won't need any caster correction or anti-lift bushings unless you're lowering the car way down. These are used to correct the suspension angles so that an alignment shop can get the suspension within spec when you lower it. Junkyard control arms aren't a bad idea, but you'll still probably want to plan to take it for an alignment right after you install them if you want to save your tires. This is my ride height: http://i.imgur.com/6UjSIZZ.jpg Would stock bushings still be OK for that to get a decent alignment? Alignment would definitely be done after bushings, but the tires are bald right now so I'm not too worried about burning them up. Right now, the car pulls to the direction it was last turned in. If I take a right turn the car will continue pulling to the right, and same if I take a left turn. I thought it could be the steering rack bushings so I installed some Whiteline ones and am still having the same problem. I'm also getting a lot of clunking in the passenger front area so I'm wondering if it's control arm bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor294 Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Car pulling in last direction turned is usually a worn out suspension component like a ball joint or tie-rod end. I'd do ball joints and your bushings, get an alignment, then see if your issue persists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 my lowered wagon hass the turn memory thing as well, has had it since before i rebuilt the frontend and put the coilovers on. mine sits about like yours does, mebbe a bit lower. cant tell with the angle of the pic. i think i am going to try the correcting kit to see if it changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookie Monster Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Thanks! Ball joints are definitely going to be replaced. For the bushings, I'm still not sure what to get, as there are multiple choices for the same bushing. For example, the front control arm bushing has multiple part numbers and look different but say they're for the same application. The rear anti lift kit is also $200 just for the bushings/brackets so I'm not sure if I want to spend that much on something that might not fix the problem. I don't want to go with OE bushings since I'd like a firmer feel but I am so lost on what to even order. For my RX7 I was able to just get a fully polyurethane kit as a one click order type thing but haven't been able to find the same for this car. Anyone have any experience/advice on what to buy? It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookie Monster Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Sorry for the double post - I forgot to add that my crappy coilovers keep binding the springs when I turn the wheel. I'm thinking that could also be causing the memory steer as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 I think I got my poly bushings from some joint in australia. Took a long time, but fortunately I wasn't in a hurry. I don't think it was a one click, but it was all the same site. I thought memory steer was from front bushings being dead and leaving you with toe-out, but I've never dealt with ride height changes, so I could be way off here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 I thought memory steer was from front bushings being dead and leaving you with toe-out, but I've never dealt with ride height changes, so I could be way off here. i thought the same, but literally everything in my front end was replaced, and it started after i lowered the hell out of the wagon. its low enough that i have to lift the car to get the lift arms under it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookie Monster Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 From my reading, it looks like memory steer can be caused by worn steering rack bushings allowing the rack to physically move under cornering, worn suspension bushings allowing the geometry/alignment to change, or worn top hat/camber plate bearing or improperly installed top hat washer not allowing the struts to turn with the wheels. Since I can hear my springs binding when turning the wheel I know for sure that's at least a contributor to the problem. I still have a clunking from the passenger side while driving over bumps, so I'll check for anything loose or worn while installing my ball joints this weekend and update the thread. Right now I'm looking at buying BC coilovers since I've had good experiences with them on other cars. I'm hoping that will solve my spring binding and memory steer issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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