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Real world 3.6 MPG


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Ok. I lied. Couldn't keep it under 75. Started in VA and did some of the mountains. Stopped here in Charleston, WV for fuel and lunch. Based on miles driven and fuel, I am at 26.3mpg. I'm happy with it since I speed like an a$$h01e. I was getting 17mpg in my last car. For most of VA, I kept it at 8 over the limit. Didn't want to risk a reckless ticket. I did get scared for a second when I was passing a truck and saw a state police car behind me and I looked down and saw 81. Oops. He passed me like I was jogging.

 

 

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obviously it is clear from this thread that the 3.6R gets the same or better mpg's than the 2.5, so why would anyone get the 2.5?

 

Because my 2.5 gives me 35 mpg highway at 73 mph while around town

I get around 29 mpg. As for performance, I don't need the power.

The 2.5 is ample for my type of driving.

The 2.5 doesn't cost as much as the 3.6.

I have 49k on the clock and my engine uses no measurable oil. I do

not drive like an old lady either. Very satisfied so far.

 

balbrec2

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Because my 2.5 gives me 35 mpg highway at 73 mph while around town

I get around 29 mpg. As for performance, I don't need the power.

The 2.5 is ample for my type of driving.

The 2.5 doesn't cost as much as the 3.6.

I have 49k on the clock and my engine uses no measurable oil. I do

not drive like an old lady either. Very satisfied so far.

 

balbrec2

 

that was satire, obviously a smaller engine will return higher mpg's, due to physics.

 

pretty sure my next car will be a mazda with the 2.0 liter Skyactive X engine... should be a hoot

 

Mazda is predicting about 188 horsepower and 170 lb-ft of torque from the 2.0-liter Skyactiv-X.

 

from a lighter car, getting 40mpg... I've seen power numbers closer to 200 hp/torque...

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Because my 2.5 gives me 35 mpg highway at 73 mph while around town

I get around 29 mpg. As for performance, I don't need the power.

The 2.5 is ample for my type of driving.

The 2.5 doesn't cost as much as the 3.6.

I have 49k on the clock and my engine uses no measurable oil. I do

not drive like an old lady either. Very satisfied so far.

 

balbrec2

Fine, OK but this really for "Real world 3.6 MPG" I guess you are Desleaix[emoji15]

 

Laughing at Oneself and with Others is Good for the Soul[emoji16]

Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul😆
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  • 4 weeks later...
34mpg from a 3.6? Have you manually calculated it with fuel used and miles driven?

The computer needs to be reset approximately every 7500 miles or it starts to read high.

 

I can't calculate it manually because unfortunately I didn't get receipts from all my full stops, and I neglected to write the details down, so I'm purely relying on the car's readout. What maybe assisted that fuel figure are two things ...

(1) I deliberately drove like a grandma all the way :lol: ...(very easy on the gas pedal at all times so as to conserve fuel)

(2) I always filled up with a higher grade of fuel (Australian 95 RON as against the standard 91 RON)

 

Not exactly sure what you mean about resetting the computer but I did reset the trip meter to zero at the start of the trip.

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You have to reset your eco monitor if you are using that to get the 34mpg. Mine got as high as 41mpg before I found out you had to reset it. If I drive like a grandma and in a relatively flat area I can eek out maybe 30mpg from my 3.6 based on miles traveled and fuel used in an empty car. The tripometer calculator always reads 1.0-1.8 mpg high in my car. Now that it’s getting colder and I can’t drive like a grandma, I’m only averaging 21/22.
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Actually not that hard to believe - at a continuous 60 mph over a long period of time, I could see somewhere around 30 mpg.

 

I used to have a 2011 Mustang GT with a 5.0L V8 and 6spd manual and did a 1200 mile road trip pushing ~27mpg. Not hard to believe that a 3.6 H6 plugging along at 60 mph wouldnt touch 30mpg. Remember, larger engine have to work less at cruising speed to maintain a comfortable cruise.

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You have to reset your eco monitor if you are using that to get the 34mpg. Mine got as high as 41mpg before I found out you had to reset it. If I drive like a grandma and in a relatively flat area I can eek out maybe 30mpg from my 3.6 based on miles traveled and fuel used in an empty car. The tripometer calculator always reads 1.0-1.8 mpg high in my car. Now that it’s getting colder and I can’t drive like a grandma, I’m only averaging 21/22.

 

I'm not sure how to reset the Eco Monitor but I will check that out. I think it is relevant to point out the possible differences in driving here in Australia as compared to the U.S. We have nowhere near the population of you guys, and on a road trip like I have just completed through country areas, I was most often driving at a constant 65 MPH for hours on end, without another vehicle sticking to my bumper. In my post I mentioned "driving like a grandma" to make a point. I actually set the cruise control to just below the designated speed limit, and provided that there was no traffic behind me that I would be inconveniencing (which was normally the case) I would ease up to any changes in road speed limits by easing up on the throttle rather than hitting the brakes and then accelerating. The weather was such that I also had no need to use the air-con for much of the trip. I usually get to my destinations not too long after those other drivers who feel the need to accelerate/brake just to be first to get there.

I know that driving conservatively is not considered "cool," but my aim is not to "get there first" .... but to ensure that "I actually get there" ;)

 

https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/driveHabits.jsp

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I have just completed a 1900 mile road trip. It was about 85% highway driving at a speed of approx 60 miles per hour. The average fuel usage shows as 34 MPG.

I can't calculate it manually because unfortunately I didn't get receipts from all my full stops, and I neglected to write the details down, so I'm purely relying on the car's readout. ...

 

The 3.6 in the Liberty is pretty good isn’t it? :) A brilliant engine/CVT combination. Even though Subaru Australia’s website disagrees, I actually get consistently better fuel economy out of our 2016 Liberty 3.6R than I used to from our SJ Forester XTP (FA20DIT) driving both vehicles at the same speed over the same roads & both in ‘S’ mode with climate control always on.

 

Looking back through my records the highest I have achieved with the 3.6 Liberty is 7.98 lt/100km (35.4 mpg) sitting on a true 110kph (114kph indicated) in ‘S’ mode using adaptive cruise.

 

I’m regularly getting 8.53 lt/100km (~33 mpg) to 8.28 lt/100km (~34 mpg) with most of our open road driving, with & without cruise control. When not using cruise control I don’t drive for economy, I just drive the car for enjoyment. I also stick with 95 RON, I tried 91 RON for a few tank fulls but the engine didn’t idle as smooth as with 95 RON.

 

All the above figures are calculated by distance travelled & litres to fill the tank at the first bowser click. The indicated economy readout is very optimistic by anywhere from 0.5 lt/100km to as much as 1.0 lt/100km.

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The 3.6 in the Liberty is pretty good isn’t it? :) A brilliant engine/CVT combination. Even though Subaru Australia’s website disagrees

 

I agree mate. ( I gave you a wave as I passed Port Macquarie on the recent trip):lol: There's no arguing that around the suburbs the fuel rate will be heaps higher, but my trip proved to me that driven smoothly on a highway, the 3.6 is not a gas guzzler. And whilst as I said, I was driving pretty conservatively, ... but as you might know, the pacific highway has a lot of roadworks which I was forced to sit through and I still got good fuel usage ... so I was happy. ( I forgot to mention in my original post that I was also running with 38psi cold pressure on all tyres which according to most "experts" helps conserve fuel)

 

P.S. I also used your technique with the paddles for negotiating the steep downhill run on Mnt Ousley Road leading into Wollongong and it worked great, so thanks for that.

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Can you tell how much pressure is inside the tires when it's warm? You need to make sure you don't exceed the posted psi/kPa on the sidewall.

 

While I agree underinflated tires cause issues, if you overinflate the tires, you're reducing the very frictional forces that keep you planted on the road, as the tire isn't "flat" but "curved" on the bottom. It'll also put more wear on your center treads, as the outer treads aren't making contact.

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Can you tell how much pressure is inside the tires when it's warm? You need to make sure you don't exceed the posted psi/kPa on the sidewall.

 

While I agree underinflated tires cause issues, if you overinflate the tires, you're reducing the very frictional forces that keep you planted on the road, as the tire isn't "flat" but "curved" on the bottom. It'll also put more wear on your center treads, as the outer treads aren't making contact.

 

I'm still on the original Dunlops and the max pressure on the sidewall is 51psi. Not that anyone would ever get close to that, but I think it is worth noting that manufacturers recommended tire pressures (as far as I can research) are always cold pressures .... so that those drivers who are running at the "recommended pressures" as per the sticker in their vehicles, need to check their tires when they are cool. That means even if the tires are sitting overnight, but have been now sitting in the hot sun the tire pressure will give a higher reading.

Tire pressure discussions are interesting, but will provoke many different opinions, as everyone has their own personal preference. I prefer 38psi. As a matter of fact I rang a tire dealer this morning discussing tires, and he said 38psi was perfect for my Subaru ... that's not to say another dealer won't have a different opinion:)

I think that in regards to tires, vehicle manufacturers are more interested in looks than practicality... refer the below link that states " ... because really low-profile tyres are of no benefit outside of the racetrack and only make the car steer and ride badly ..." and I tend to think "recommended tire pressures" also fall into the same category ..... manufactures recommend the tire pressures that their marketing gurus think makes the various cars look or feel better at the time of sale, but not in "the real world."

 

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/james-may/james-may-low-profile-tyres

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Eustis!! My wife's hometown and where we got married (over 35 years ago)!! Her parents have both passed so we don't go back much, but it's a really cool, quaint Florida town.

 

Well, let's start at last weekend took a scenic drive to downtown Eustis, Florida, to listen to some good old mountain music and Irish folk music. Share the Subaru Love and let two people check out my vehicle.

 

http://www.eustis.org/visitors/historic_downtown_eustis

 

It is called going down old memory lane to my core and roots. Donated to a Pet Rescue and ate at Sol de Mexico restaurant, I might add it was the best Mexican restaurant in Mid Florida, if you really want real Mexican authentic food. That was the best I have eaten since gorging out in North County Colorado which there are a bunch of small town North of Denver in the mountains and each family restaurant was better than the last. It a quiet drive about 60 miles round trip mostly hilly two lane country roads speed limits from 35 to 55, averaged a decent 27.6 mpg.

 

During the week did the standard fluid checks, tire checking filling the all to 36 PSI and tendered the battery. Also this last week did a touch-up detailing to the vehicle inside and out all except a paste waxing around 6 hours of work. She look great need to do my quarterly waxing soon.

 

Today felt like going to Lake Wales to walk around Bok Tower...

 

https://boktowergardens.org/tower-gardens/

 

Very beautiful and the tower sits on a decent hill crest overlooking the beautiful countryside. This was a flower show and I was able to share a few Subaru gadgets and advertising Subaru with my clothing.

 

What really amazed me was the gas mileage. This was the first decent drive using highway(I4 was smooth driving not any slow down) roadway ( US27, 9 lights including 7 camera intersections) and then small country roads with very slow speeds since they did the TSB( not sure which number) to the CVT. The transmission is smooth as silk.

I did a highway camera shot on I4 showing average on the way to Lakes Wales not a lot of traffic.

 

5223d45a3da1bd3662c97b091e82b7c1.jpg

 

The drive back was a lot of slow downs, stop and go on I4 which in turn really brought mpgs down [emoji1][emoji847]but who can complain...7eb98b63791f2efc61fda80adb6664f4.jpg

I really enjoy the 3.6R a fantastic cruiser.

 

 

 

 

Laughing at Oneself and with Others is Good for the Soul[emoji16]

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I just happened to stumble onto this video and thought it might be relevant to the numerous posts that have appeared over time on the forum in regards to fuel comparisons between the 2.5lt and the 3.6lt Subarus ..... and how that particular fuel usage figure might factor into the vehicle purchase decision.

 

Admittedly the video is talking specifically about two Hyundai models, but I think the general concepts he is talking about can apply to other vehicles as well.

 

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I just happened to stumble onto this video and thought it might be relevant to the numerous posts that have appeared over time on the forum in regards to fuel comparisons between the 2.5lt and the 3.6lt Subarus ..... and how that particular fuel usage figure might factor into the vehicle purchase decision.

 

Admittedly the video is talking specifically about two Hyundai models, but I think the general concepts he is talking about can apply to other vehicles as well.

 

 

Thanks for the reminder. In the scheme of things, fuel cost difference is really pretty low, at least between most smaller & larger engine.

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Admittedly the video is talking specifically about two Hyundai models, but I think the general concepts he is talking about can apply to other vehicles as well.

 

 

Hyundai illustration is for a difference of about 10%, whereas Subaru's with both being AWD is about 20%.

 

If I drive about 20,000 Kms a year in Canada, my cost differential per year is only about $150 per year more if I drive a 3.6 instead of a 2.5. That's not much really, for that extra capability (50 cents a day!).

 

But over ten years, that's $1500. Over ten years, about the time I intend to own the car, that's $1500 and I can spend that on a trip to the Caribbean or put it toward the next car, or whatever. That sacrifice for driving the 2.5 means I saved on about 60 less fill-ups at the gas station.

 

And, if the Time Value of money on the extra capital expense of the 3.6 is factored in, then that amount will easily triple.

 

Those are my numbers. Your mileage may vary.

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Hyundai illustration is for a difference of about 10%, whereas Subaru's with both being AWD is about 20%.

 

If I drive about 20,000 Kms a year in Canada, my cost differential per year is only about $150 per year more if I drive a 3.6 instead of a 2.5. That's not much really, for that extra capability (50 cents a day!).

 

But over ten years, that's $1500. Over ten years, about the time I intend to own the car, that's $1500 and I can spend that on a trip to the Caribbean or put it toward the next car, or whatever. That sacrifice for driving the 2.5 means I saved on about 60 less fill-ups at the gas station.

 

And, if the Time Value of money on the extra capital expense of the 3.6 is factored in, then that amount will easily triple.

 

Those are my numbers. Your mileage may vary.

Why don't you tell us what you really think. Your lost! You are really at a lost for $150.00 :shakinghead:

 

Laughing at oneself and with others is good for the Soul![emoji2]

Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul😆
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