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Front Lower control arm bushings - recommendations and experiences?


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Just got the LGT back from a motor build. Added forged pistons and the Killer B oil pickup to the rest of the stock internals after burning a valve due to an injector failure.

 

So she makes more vroom, and the next weak link is.....

Front Lower control arm bushings, rear to be specific. Now both torn and clunking under load.

 

What brands have you used and how did they work for you? Car gets some track time, and our roads here are rough, so I need to balance stiffness with streetability.

 

Fire away!

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I have white lines. They're great. If I had to do it again I would consider replacing the arms with spec b replacements on rock auto.
You mean you would get the Mevotech front control arms and replace the rear bushings with the Whiteline kit? Or use the Mevotech bushings as supplied?
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Add SuperPro's to the list especially if you want a true anti-lift kit.

 

Has anyone tried 3m window weld/urethane on new stockers? Might give it a try since they were $7 a piece

 

It's not worth it, the bushings still need some flex, and window weld kind of sucks for movement items (I think it will push it out over time). Your better off with $40 ES or Prothanes at that point, since window weld is very expensive now days.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I have a set of STI bushings I was going to post for sale. Both the large one that usually tears and the small one. I never used them because I picked up a set of JDM aluminum arms. PM me if interested. They look the same but are made of stronger material.

 

 

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Yeah I think the mevotech ones come with poly bushings but don't quote me on that.

 

 

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The bushings are hardening rubber. But do not have the voids like the stock bushings.

 

I say +1 for the Mevotech control arms. I paid about $210 for the pair. With the use of a ball joint removal tool it took about an hour to do both sides with the help of a friend who was a tech. The feel of the car is much improved.

 

Edit, they also come with new ball joints.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for this thread and everyone's contributions. I needed new bushings, but it's way easier getting the aluminum Mevotech arms... just ordered them!

 

I already have some new Whiteline lower, inner front control arm poly bushings (W0506). Since I am getting a WL antilift kit (KCA334) pressed into these control arms, should I bother replacing the new rubber bushings in the Mevotech arms or will I be fine w/o them?

 

 

Also, I was shipped the wrong antilift kit (KCA334M) and didn't catch it until much later. Anyone interested in it?

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Thanks for this thread and everyone's contributions. I needed new bushings, but it's way easier getting the aluminum Mevotech arms... just ordered them!

 

I already have some new Whiteline lower, inner front control arm poly bushings (W0506). Since I am getting a WL antilift kit (KCA334) pressed into these control arms, should I bother replacing the new rubber bushings in the Mevotech arms or will I be fine w/o them?

 

 

Also, I was shipped the wrong antilift kit (KCA334M) and didn't catch it until much later. Anyone interested in it?

 

Edit - I re-read your question. Unless you really need the caster and ALK improvements, the new arms should be fine.

 

I'm confused. The kits you mention are the front and rear bushings for the control arm. Not sure why you'd replace new bushings on a new control arm, unless you really want the caster change.

 

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I want the caster and ALK improvements.

 

I bought replacement bushings (W0506) that I now won't use... I didn't realize how cheap these control arms were when I bought these bushings :(

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LeggoMyLeggy: The RockAuto aluminum arms are the same arms regardless of the car (GT vs. SpecB)... unless the bushings are different. There's no advantage that I know of. I got the aluminum ones b/c I needed new ball joints and bushings, so it was about the same to just replace the entire control arm and get a slight weight reduction (+ parts that won't rust)!
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Looking to do the same, Can I get the GT spec B ones for my normal 5mt GT?

theres a 5$ difference from RockAuto but wondering if there is a fitment difference/ advantage.

 

I now see that there are two manufacturers on RockAuto offering aluminium control arms for Legacy. I just installed the Mevotech units. Worked great. Solid bushings. Aluminium isn't coated, but it will oxidize on its own, resulting in aluminium oxide coating.

 

The other is by MAS - http://mas-industries.com/online-catalog/. I haven't come across them before. They describe theirs as coated. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7522380&cc=1432596&jsn=427&jsn=427

 

All that said, and as others state, any legacy control arm is the same shape as any other legacy control arm. I suspect MAS lists theirs as Spec B because the Spec B came with aluminium arms instead of stamped/welded steel.

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  • 1 year later...

Rock auto now has "Energy Suspension" kits - including both front CA bushings (i.e. rear and front LCA). Cost is around $55 for the whole kit.

 

Any thoughts on their quality? I think I'm getting a clunk from my old (7-8 years old, yellow) whitelines. Are the new black white lines better?

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Rock auto now has "Energy Suspension" kits - including both front CA bushings (i.e. rear and front LCA). Cost is around $55 for the whole kit.

 

Any thoughts on their quality? I think I'm getting a clunk from my old (7-8 years old, yellow) whitelines. Are the new black white lines better?

 

 

I can't speak for their legacy bushings, but years ago I had replaced every piece of ruber on my old fox mustang's entire chassis with energy suspension poly bushings and couldn't have been happier.

 

 

I miss that car

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