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Misfire #2 and #4


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Also the previous owner replaced both OCV not too long ago. So after timing belt is done this weekend, going to install new radiator (since I found out it had a small crack in top tank) I am gonna do oil pump seal as well. then I got a new tune waiting for me. Ill post an update this weekend after work is done.

 

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I'd almost want to pull plugs and look in with a borescope and turn by hand to see if a valve is sticking or bent. These are interference engines. How far off before contact?

 

 

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Well when started I don't hear any noise at all. Which don't really mean anything but, wouldnt I hear clinks from bent valves ?

 

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I've used 2 Aisin kits (one on my 06 LGT, one on my friend's 05 WRX), and was impressed with both. The parts are the same as OEM, made in Japan. Gates kits have had issues with water pumps although they may have fixed them since those reports. Your mileage may vary. Dayco seems to make good stuff too.

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I'd almost want to pull plugs and look in with a borescope and turn by hand to see if a valve is sticking or bent. These are interference engines. How far off before contact?

 

 

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The service manual say's 3 teeth off.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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yep. Three.

 

Also, I would advise to avoid changing a bunch of things at the same time in hoping to fix the issue. Instead, I would do one thing at a time and see if it fixes the issue. Then move to the next item.

The only other thing I am going to do with timing belt is oil pump seal. Which I strongly belive its leaking considering oil is dripping from my filter area.

 

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I'm thinking that's 2 teeth start from 12 o clock on the bottom and 6 on the top pulley and look both ways.

 

If the belts still on, it be good to rotate the crank by hand and see if there's any binding.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Here is a couple more pictures.(both sides) I think its 2 teeth. With bent valves I belive it would run like complete shit, but I only have rough idle and at 2500-3k rpm it smooths out and sounds good like a normal subi but that's when I get misfire. I planned on doing the timing this weekend. But ill ask a mechanic at work if he has a scope I can barrow for the weekend. 552901f6d7798c35cccccc6ba472daec.jpg147df8265ccc9acd1f6fc2ea2f9232e8.jpg

 

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I guess we need a clear definition of how they measure 3 teeth.

 

I'm thinking as you rotate your gears back to TDC, it will line up in about a 1.5 teeth on each gear.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I'm thinking that's 2 teeth start from 12 o clock on the bottom and 6 on the top pulley and look both ways.

 

If the belts still on, it be good to rotate the crank by hand and see if there's any binding.

 

 

 

I agree with you as well Max. I'm thinking someone could be pretty lucky, as things could have been much worse. Hopefully he has good news for us soon

 

 

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Here is a couple more pictures.(both sides) I think its 2 teeth. With bent valves I belive it would run like complete shit, but I only have rough idle and at 2500-3k rpm it smooths out and sounds good like a normal subi but that's when I get misfire. I planned on doing the timing this weekend. But ill ask a mechanic at work if he has a scope I can barrow for the weekend. 552901f6d7798c35cccccc6ba472daec.jpg147df8265ccc9acd1f6fc2ea2f9232e8.jpg

 

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So, can I assume that the mark on the crank pulley was properly aligned when you took these two pictures? If yes, then I would think that it is strange that both sides would be off and you are only getting misfires on one side of the engine.

 

 

In any case, I think you will be fine in terms of valve interference. I recall mine had jumped about 3.5 teeth and the car could not even start. And when I put a new belt back, I was fine.

 

Also, it would be important to figure out why it jumped in the first place. It could have been caused by either a worn out belt, seized pulley, worn out water pump, or wrong clearance on some (or all) of the timing belt guides. Often, people are not very careful with the latter, but it is super important. Mine jumped because the guides were too close to the belt.

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I guess we need a clear definition of how they measure 3 teeth.

 

I'm thinking as you rotate your gears back to TDC, it will line up in about a 1.5 teeth on each gear.

 

I don't think you mean TDC right? If you mean to align the timing marks as per the FSM for timing belt removal, then the pistons are half way into their stroke.

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So, can I assume that the mark on the crank pulley was properly aligned when you took these two pictures? If yes, then I would think that it is strange that both sides would be off and you are only getting misfires on one side of the engine.

 

 

In any case, I think you will be fine in terms of valve interference. I recall mine had jumped about 3.5 teeth and the car could not even start. And when I put a new belt back, I was fine.

 

Also, it would be important to figure out why it jumped in the first place. It could have been caused by either a worn out belt, seized pulley, worn out water pump, or wrong clearance on some (or all) of the timing belt guides. Often, people are not very careful with the latter, but it is super important. Mine jumped because the guides were too close to the belt.

 

Well I've only owned the car for 2 weeks. The previous owner never changed the timing belt and had it for a little over 6 years.. So I assume it was just worn out belt and pulliley.

The first owner had it for a while and the dealership said he took good care of it, he traded if off at 145k. Then it went to auction, bought by a dealership then was used as a lease vehicle for a couple months, then back to auction. A little dealership bought it then the guy I bought it from, bought it. 6 years later here I am.

 

I haven't had time to remove the center cover yet. But hopefully will be able to tonight after work.

 

The legacy sat for 6mo before I started it. After I get timing set right I am going to do a compression test, leak down test and smoke test at work.

 

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Like I said before, you cannot even be sure that the timing is off, until you remove the center cover, and line up the crank sprocket to the hash on the oil pump. Until then, your previous pictures are not exactly accurate. The center piece I believe is 7 bolts. Should be easy to pull off.

 

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I don't think you mean TDC right? If you mean to align the timing marks as per the FSM for timing belt removal, then the pistons are half way into their stroke.

 

 

Correct, when those marks are lined up.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Yes there is the guide. Got belt on and did several rotations by hand. Everything lined up on each rotations along with cam being aligned from oil pump. Both side were on point.

 

Put it all back together excluding radiator since I am wanting for a new one to come in. Did a quick start to see if it would blow up or if something bad would happen lol

 

Started right up, idle was a bit better (I still got a new tune to apply from my tuner, just wanted to fix timing first) no crazy misfire feeling from engine (like before, you could tell engine was misfiring just by looking at it) but had a instant CEL. Ill run the code tomorrow after work. Hopefully its something stupid and a reset will fix it. If not, ill tear it all back down and triple check the timing is on point. As of now on a sand still for a couple more days.

 

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Nice. Looks like you made some good progress then. Curious to hear what the code is though.

Yeah.. I forgot to plug in the o2 sensor 😂 I unhooked it for some reason. But that was the problem. But I believe I may need new engine mounts? Not 100% sure, gonna put it on a lift at work Thursday and do some further inspection.

 

Gonna take off the timing covers again just to make sure it all stayed in time.

 

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