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Misfire #2 and #4


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Thanks for the turbo info max. I'll be looking into a new one soon, or maybe a second hand one, but how soon will depend on the condition of mine. But, for the guys that have been following and responded to this thread I have a question.

Today I drove 40 miles give or take round trip. Got the p1312 code. My code reader also reads make specific codes. I found this to be very odd because I deleted the egt sensor cel when I was borrowing a friends tatrix cable.

Does this mean, when the dealership re set my transponder, they possibly put a stock flash back on?

 

 

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First time here, just joined and alot of great info. I am having alot of trouble with cyl 2 and 4 misfire as well. My question to you is did you have gas smell when it was acting up?

I am at wits end with this.

Not sure this post went where I wanted it too but am asking zachariahc about his valves. I have good compression and it runs fine at idle/ light accel. Under any load it has zero power , misfires and smells of gas. new coils and swapped injectors side to side.

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First time here, just joined and alot of great info. I am having alot of trouble with cyl 2 and 4 misfire as well. My question to you is did you have gas smell when it was acting up?

I am at wits end with this.

Not sure this post went where I wanted it too but am asking zachariahc about his valves. I have good compression and it runs fine at idle/ light accel. Under any load it has zero power , misfires and smells of gas. new coils and swapped injectors side to side.

 

 

 

Hey! Welcome to the forum. These guys are a good source of knowledge and help.

 

I did not have the gas smell. The steps I took were these.

 

I put in New plugs, thinking maybe a bad plug or internal crack or defect. --Still had issues.

 

Swapped coils from left to right, also swapped with a good set as well. --still had issues

 

I took the left and right covers off to check my timing marks, and they were still dead on

 

Looked at the turbo inlet hose, and the tmic hose. Those where still connected.

 

Checked my torque on the intake bolts, and they were at spec torque still.

 

I removed the oil control valve, and tested it with jumpers to the battery to see if it was moving or not. It was moving but not a lot, seemed to be sticking. So I replaced it with a spare I had from another set of heads.

 

How does it run at idle? And when you swapped the injectors from one side to the next, did the code change? And I would definitely take a look at the ocv

 

 

 

 

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Still same code, 2 & 4 misfire, with #1 thrown in once in a while.

Gas smell is only under a load, anything past light accel and that's when it's misfiring and throwing codes. Like it's loosing spark, compression or pcm is commanding injectors wide open because of a perceived lean condition.

Back story, i own a shop and Subarus are 75% of customer cars. I got the car for $500 and we rebuilt the engine because of turbo failure. New insert turbo lasted about 20 min. We didn't realize the problem with oil starvation and lack of maintenance so did a 2nd insert and decided to rebuild engine. Ran great for 1 week and sold it. Customer returned with trans complaint. R&R trans, noticed light smoke. Turbo again. Put in full unit. Right after replacing turbo and trans, I now have this and have done everything stated above. Searching for the needle in the haystack.

 

 

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Still same code, 2 & 4 misfire, with #1 thrown in once in a while.

Gas smell is only under a load, anything past light accel and that's when it's misfiring and throwing codes. Like it's loosing spark, compression or pcm is commanding injectors wide open because of a perceived lean condition.

Back story, i own a shop and Subarus are 75% of customer cars. I got the car for $500 and we rebuilt the engine because of turbo failure. New insert turbo lasted about 20 min. We didn't realize the problem with oil starvation and lack of maintenance so did a 2nd insert and decided to rebuild engine. Ran great for 1 week and sold it. Customer returned with trans complaint. R&R trans, noticed light smoke. Turbo again. Put in full unit. Right after replacing turbo and trans, I now have this and have done everything stated above. Searching for the needle in the haystack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Did you replace the oil cooler and oil pump with the rebuild ?

 

Did you remove both banjo filters ?

 

Was the oil system cleaned when the machine shop rebuilt the heads and machined the block ?

 

If not, IMO you still have metal particles being released into the oil system.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Thanks for the turbo info max. I'll be looking into a new one soon, or maybe a second hand one, but how soon will depend on the condition of mine. But, for the guys that have been following and responded to this thread I have a question.

Today I drove 40 miles give or take round trip. Got the p1312 code. My code reader also reads make specific codes. I found this to be very odd because I deleted the egt sensor cel when I was borrowing a friends tatrix cable.

Does this mean, when the dealership re set my transponder, they possibly put a stock flash back on?

 

 

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Honestly anything is possible. I'd borrow the cable again and check for yourself.

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Yep, what he said ^

 

Delete that code.

 

Haven't been following this thread that closely, does this car of a catless up pipe ?

 

There is a resistor you can install in the egt connector on the right fender to make the system think the probe is still there.

 

Years ago, but I think its a 2.2k ohm, you can get it a Radio Shack. Or I still a few left over from when I bought them.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Roger that Max.

 

I got a P0546 DTC last, and my egt was shot. Replacing the egt unit was hard to remove.

 

For now its on a 2.2k ohm resistor fix. Car and ecu are doing fine...

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Yep, what he said ^

 

Delete that code.

 

Haven't been following this thread that closely, does this car of a catless up pipe ?

 

There is a resistor you can install in the egt connector on the right fender to make the system think the probe is still there.

 

Years ago, but I think its a 2.2k ohm, you can get it a Radio Shack. Or I still a few left over from when I bought them.

 

 

 

Yes, I have a catless up pipe. I seen the resistor fix online. I have some resistors as well, but have to check the ohms. I like the tatrix fix, but the resistor one is going to be my solution for now. The dealership never mentioned a stock flash to my car, but like ya guys say, anything is possible lol. Thanks for the reminder of the resistor fix, I had forgotten about that until the mentioning of it

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everyone. Pretty new to LGT but have owned a couple subi's

 

Okay so I got rough idle, and Missfire in #2 & #4. Ive replaced all 4 coils, spark plugs and MAF. Idle is a little better but still have misfire in #2 & #4. Took out both injectors and took off negative to battery. cleaned both injectors with carb cleaner put them back in and started it up. No cel, went for a little cruise and cel flash a couple times then goes off. Hit the highway cel comes back on, but under wot it will go away sometimes. (I don't wot all the time so just seeing what it does)

 

When I get home I let the 05 lgt idle in my driveway, no cel only rough idle. I rev it around 3k rpm cel flashing. Let it idle and it goes away.

 

I then turn it off and let it sit over night. In the morning I start it up and solid cel comes on and stays on.

Today I am gonna switch injectors and see if it follows. I got a new timing belt kit coming in, in hopes that it gives a better idle. It got 190k so its basically time anyway.

 

The guy I bought it from said he never had issues until he got it tuned. He claimed after a couple pulls it threw misfire codes. So I sent my tuner his final log and he went through and tweaked it (a lot) he said it was pretty sloppy job. So hopefully with new tune and timing belt it will calm down

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The timing belt shouldn't have any effect on the idle and your issues.

 

The tune... well that's something that has to be pretty "spot on".

 

www.tuningalliance.com is one of the best with these cars, if you need send him a data log. Worth every penny you pay him...he's that good.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The timing belt shouldn't have any effect on the idle and your issues.

 

The tune... well that's something that has to be pretty "spot on".

 

www.tuningalliance.com is one of the best with these cars, if you need send him a data log. Worth every penny you pay him...he's that good.

 

hey Max, i've talked to you a lot in the past on seperate topics about these cars & had another question. I'm doing the catless uppipe within the next few weeks & all the preventative work left will be getting off of the stock map. What is the likelihood of burnt valves? Engine has 6.3k on it. Do you think it's urgent to get the tune done? Thanks!

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Hello everyone. Pretty new to LGT but have owned a couple subi's

 

Okay so I got rough idle, and Missfire in #2 & #4. Ive replaced all 4 coils, spark plugs and MAF. Idle is a little better but still have misfire in #2 & #4. Took out both injectors and took off negative to battery. cleaned both injectors with carb cleaner put them back in and started it up. No cel, went for a little cruise and cel flash a couple times then goes off. Hit the highway cel comes back on, but under wot it will go away sometimes. (I don't wot all the time so just seeing what it does)

 

When I get home I let the 05 lgt idle in my driveway, no cel only rough idle. I rev it around 3k rpm cel flashing. Let it idle and it goes away.

 

I then turn it off and let it sit over night. In the morning I start it up and solid cel comes on and stays on.

Today I am gonna switch injectors and see if it follows. I got a new timing belt kit coming in, in hopes that it gives a better idle. It got 190k so its basically time anyway.

 

The guy I bought it from said he never had issues until he got it tuned. He claimed after a couple pulls it threw misfire codes. So I sent my tuner his final log and he went through and tweaked it (a lot) he said it was pretty sloppy job. So hopefully with new tune and timing belt it will calm down

 

So you basically have misfires on a specific engine bank (driver side). That, to me, means that you probably have a timing issue. So check that your timing belt has not jumped a tooth. And check if your OCV on the driver side is working well.

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So you basically have misfires on a specific engine bank (driver side). That, to me, means that you probably have a timing issue. So check that your timing belt has not jumped a tooth. And check if your OCV on the driver side is working well.

 

Ill report back tonight with timing. As for the ocv ill have to look and and read up on how to properly test it to make aure its working properly.

 

Thanks.

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Well... Hopefully not. But I have been searching for new short blocks =p I'd like to get this one to last for a few months.

 

Got timing covers off and my results. Not an expert but looks like to me its off a bit... 65e2501bd6675aefc0e9350279507dd7.jpg

 

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Well... Hopefully not. But I have been searching for new short blocks =p I'd like to get this one to last for a few months.

 

Got timing covers off and my results. Not an expert but looks like to me its off a bit... 65e2501bd6675aefc0e9350279507dd7.jpg

 

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

You still need to pull off the center cover and line up the crank sprocket with the hash on the oil pump. If you have done that then they can be 1mm or so off. Mine were never aligned perfectly. But close enough to turn the crank a degree or so to get them lined up.

 

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So you basically have misfires on a specific engine bank (driver side). That, to me, means that you probably have a timing issue. So check that your timing belt has not jumped a tooth. And check if your OCV on the driver side is working well.

 

 

 

I agree. Both are really simple to check. I'd check timing first just to know you're still timed. Oil control valve will be easiest to check. But not long ago I ran into a thread someplace that discussed issues related to timing caused by the type of oil, and the filters being used. Might also be worth looking into

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I would also add that the 'bulletproof' way of checking timing which is counting the number of teeth between pulleys as per the FSM. But as others said, yeah make sure all the marks are correctly aligned. After you have checked and you are still not sure, then count the number of teeth.
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Well... Hopefully not. But I have been searching for new short blocks =p I'd like to get this one to last for a few months.

 

Got timing covers off and my results. Not an expert but looks like to me its off a bit... 65e2501bd6675aefc0e9350279507dd7.jpg

 

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

On eBay, there is a seller that has the dayco kits for a very very reasonable price. Belt, tensioner, and idlers.

 

 

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