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Spark plugs changed after 69K mi-pics


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I finally had a buddy help me change my spark plugs after 69K mi. since previous change out. I used NGK SILFR6A- the same as I've always used. The plugs removed look in my opinion to be normal with the electrode slightly worn on all 4 plugs and tan ceramic w/ carbon around the metal ring that surrounds everything else (see attached pics). New ones went in with no issue, checked gap 0.31 on all 4 before installing. Used anti seize on threads, dielectric, grease (small amount) on inside of boot and put everything back together. Car fired up immediately, glass smooth idle and no missing, CEL etc however when driving the car feels like its slightly stumbling around 2400rpm it begins and sort of stumbles surges up to 4500rpm. It definitely falls short on the power I know it typically makes since the new plugs went in.

 

I rechecked all coil connections etc and everything looks tight. Cleaned MAFS which was not dirty but weird slight stumble remains.

 

Because the battery was removed while the plug changeover was performed does that mean the ECU reset itself and I need to drive a few hundred mi for it to relearn?

 

Any thoughts or input on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

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Sounds a lot like ECU learning after disconnecting the battery.

 

BTW, NGK recommends not to use anti-seize on spark plug threads.

 

NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

 

 

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

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Thx for the reference. Good to know. I think I torqued to roughly 15 ft lbs which is what I thought was recommended but guess per the article it may have been a little more because the grease frees things up a little more but doubt they are too over tightened.
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Update: Stumble is gone and car is back to running normal. I feel zero difference with the new plugs in terms of smoothness or performance but the car has always been smooth since I was dyno tuned back in 08. But I guess after almost 70K the plugs should be changed for piece of mind.
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I think I pushed the plugs in my wagon to 79,000 miles, which is when I got a miss fire CEL one day, it was a no brainer why that happened.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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That is interesting as to get proper torque on a bolt, it should not be dry, but lubricated...

 

The NGK plugs have a special coating on the threads.

 

Also, antisieze can prevent proper electrical grounding of the spark plug. If you must use something, use a little WD.

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