FJuan Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 At this point, your best interest is to grind the it off with a hand grinder and get a SMFW. You can pick up a hand grinder from Harbor Freight for less than $15. Then source out a use/new SMFW. If you have the time and money , take your time and do it right. A SMFW is the way to go with these cars. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Actually. I don't even need to do that do I? It's attached to the old short block. That's why I gave in as well. Seems easier to just suck it up and not even mess with the old flywheel and put a new setup on the new engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Hopefully all the bolts are still tight. Next question is, will it be balanced after trying to drill out some of the bolts? Something to think about. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Oh no. That's the thing. The DMFW is on the old short block. I got a complete new oem short for the rebuild. So I have two in the garage. I was just trying to swap the DMFW over to save some cost. So in all reality it can just stay on there and I'm done messing with it and I just get a new/used flywheel and clutch and put it on the new engine. If that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Now you tell us you have another SB to work with. Why waste your time and get the SMFW on the other SB and be done. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 I have a used SMFW, if your interested pm me. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 I have a used SMFW, if your interested pm me. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk I'll let you know. I also found an exedy kit with the flywheel for a price I can handle. I did some searching. Seems like it's a good option. https://www.apexclutch.com/p/127443 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 I went with the exedy kit. After doing some research and talking with the tuner it seems like the best fit for now. Rock auto has the kits for 568 plus shipping. Part no. FJK1001FW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 You'll need 8 flywheel bolts from the dealership. Get the ones from a 07-09 legacy gt. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 You'll need 8 flywheel bolts from the dealership. Get the ones from a 07-09 legacy gt. The picture shows them included. But I've heard it's hit or miss if they actually show up. I'm headed to the dealer today for the two last hoses I need. Might as well get some while I'm there. Appreciate the heads up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Well. Looks like I've gotten through the build successfully. Learned a lot and have some sanity still intact. This whole thing was both the best of times and the worst of times. I wouldn't take any of it back. If nothing else it's been an adventure. After I got the heads back it really didn't take all that much longer until it was back together and ready to be in. I did just go with a new clutch and flywheel to hopefully save some time down the road switching the DMFW out. Everything I was worried about didn't I seem to have an issue with. Setting the timing belt had me freaked out for a moment just because I'd never done it on anything with interference let alone DOHC. After priming it started right up! Amazing!But then...is that coolant?!?!?! Is it oil!!!???!?! It's like 2 AM and my mind is messing with me. The thing leaked SO MUCH OIL all over the garage floor. I thought catastrophic failure had hit me as soon as I had a smile on my face. I immediately turned it off. Confirmed it was oil. LH AVCS banjo need some tightening. Alright no biggie. Made sure there was oil in it. Started again. Leaked again. Looking all over and dreading that I'd wasted a month of my life and too many monies. I found that I hadn't tightened the T connector on the upgraded oil line enough and it literally looked like the car was pissing oil. Not a leak. Not a dribble. A high stream, high pressure oily whizz fest. Sleep deprived and irritated. I took out the banjo on the back of the head(which was super fun in itself) tightened everything and put it all back together. All good! It took some time and a lot of stressing over smoke signals but I believe I have indeed brought the blue beast back to life and now only have a super small coolant leak from a reused thermostat gasket( yeah should have done that i know), a small exhaust leak where the downpipe meets the midpipe? And some boost leak which I'm trying to track down this weekend. At the end of the day. As I've said. I learned a ton about these cars, met some awesome people and feel pretty good about the whole thing even with the "issues" i'm tackling now. Good news is it starts, runs, has no CELs, drives and stops. Bad news is I have found a new addiction. IF you're still with me. There are a couple questions. I've been working with Dave at cryo on the tune(awesome guy by the way), he's the one who pointed me in the direction of a boost leak between the turbo and throttle body. Most obvious as pointed out by Dave would be IC to TB hose, bent tabs on the tanks or a dirty MAF. I noticed my intercooler may not be completely flush on the turbo. Like a VERY slight gap. It's super hard to tell because it looks like that small of a gap to me. How flush does yours sit? Also. Does the part of the IC to TB hose that connect AT the TB move freely, as in if you grab it by hand can you rotate it? Or is it suppose to be clamped on there? I may have missed that hose clamp when I was putting things back together. Also. In the picture of the flywheel that's the pilot bearing correct? Mine came with two for some reason. Maybe some ship installed and some don't and to avoid annoying calls and emails the parts warehouse just throws one in. The box was open. Not as in, an open box special. But the tape had been cut. It did come with bolts as well so maybe it was that. http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170307_195624_zpschhobn8f.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170227_101440_zpsmhw5exms.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170227_142934_zpsud67qgdj.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170307_210721_zpsxte0mygn.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170308_003447_zpsdedgxhjz.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/2435095.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 The throttle body hose to the ic needs to be clamped at both ends. Under boost, it will leak if you don't have it clamped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 The throttle body hose to the ic needs to be clamped at both ends. Under boost, it will leak if you don't have it clamped. Awesome. That's what I thought and makes sense. It wasn't "off" but I could freely rotate/twist it freely on the throttle body. Thought maybe it was some sort of swivel connection. I'm hoping that's it and thanks for the input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Yes that is a pilot bearing! Good work! Glad to hear it's running again! Also my IC sits flush. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Yes that is a pilot bearing! Good work! Glad to hear it's running again! Also my IC sits flush. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Awesome! Me friggin too ricky! (Trailer park boys anyone?) I was like 99.9% sure based one what I searched and read through but figured I'd ask anyway. Just thought it was weird they'd send one and have one already in the FW. Ok good to know. I'm going to see if I have it on there correctly and or what might be leaving a small gap and then go through all of the other stuff while it's off...once again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Now you tell us you have another SB to work with. Why waste your time and get the SMFW on the other SB and be done. Bahaha totally missed this. But yes. Should have mentioned that before trying to figure something out that didnt really need figuring haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Alright. I think I figured out the leak. Cleaned the MAF, tightened the IC to TB hose and made dang sure the IC is flush with the turbo. I was hitting around 11psi and now 14psi at like 4300-4600rpm. Still on the base map but just wanted to take it far enough to see if I could "feel" any improvement. Didn't drop the foot on the new girl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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